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#1
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Hi Colin,
I think I see where you are heading with this - what I cannot foresee at this point is how you are going to seal the ball-race against dust/dirt (which would bring it to a grinding halt in quick time) and how the turret will be kept on/in place. I should be patient and wait and see, of course, as I'm sure you already have that worked out ..... but I'm not (patient, that is). The speed at which you are working on this build is a bit intimidating. I'm only working on one little Ford GP, and taking years to do it! ![]() Mike |
#2
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Most WW2 turret rings were not actually sealed against anything. They relied on their shape to encourage water to keep away from the actual bearing surfaces. There were usually ribs on both the top of the hull and the bottom of the turret that prevented bullet fragments from getting to the bearing and these helped to keep water and lumps of dirt away too. Dust was a more difficult problem that was reduced by regular greasing which used the grease to push the dirt away from the actual bearing and trap incoming dirt and water. The rack was exposed (as it is on modern tanks) and just guarded to prevent damage to crew.
David |
#3
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Mike the dust seal is very simple as shown on the parts drawings I have.
It is nothing more than I assume a strip of felt or possibly leather that runs around the outside bottom of the turret. It has a metal band on top and is secured by a clamp which looks like an oversize hose clamp. The turret is held in place by 5 or 6 internal brackets bolted to the turret and goes under the ring. They turn with the turret and it's all covered by a angled styled capping. I am so fortunate to have great drawings thanks to members on the forum here. |
#4
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Thanks Colin and David,
A felt 'ring' around the turret base makes sense. It would make an enormous difference to the ingress of dust, yet still be soft & flexible enough not to impede the rotation. I'm familiar with the turret clamping arrangements for Cent and Leopard AS1, so can visualize what you are describing for the little Vickers. All makes sense. Looking forward to the next installment of 'Tank Tales'! ![]() Mike |
#5
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I had to make a support frame for the ball race to go in to the mill and it needs to be as accurate as I can get it. It appears to be acceptable to me. I have just welded the frame to the race as it is easily cut off after the grove is milled in.
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#6
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I had a centre to work with and made a centre in my rotating table to align them both with and then checked it with a centre point on the mill before I started cutting. It was certainly close enough for me. I also had to make a support while cutting which is just a couple of bearings roughly supported just for this particular job and it works well.
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#7
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A lot of coolant and quite a few passes by hand and the first one is done. I put some ball bearings on to get a count of the total required and I think I will end up with 220 which is the exact amount required so I'm happy with that. Another couple of days and they will be finished.
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#8
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.... the only time I have seen work like this was at National Research Center where they had a horizontal lathe from WW 2 converted to CNC for naval turret rings.
How many ball bearing are needed???? Bob C.
__________________
Bob Carriere....B.T.B C15a Cab 11 Hammond, Ontario Canada |
#9
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220 ball bearings Bob - and no surprise to all veiwing but exactly the original amount needed.
I dont have the superlatives in my vocabulary to do your work justice Colin. Suffice to say I am awestruck - this is important history being brought back to life by a very talented individual. And any of us mortals who have followed this thread will be experts on Vickers light tanks - from one end to the other!!! Again we have you to thank for that Colin ![]() ![]() ![]()
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Pax Vobiscum.......may you eat three meals a day & have regular bowel movements. |
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