CHEV 216 VS Chev 235

[Phil Waterman]

Hi Guys

Will have to sort through my shop notes and photos of water pumps couple of points to keep in mind as you play mix and match.

1. Keep the relative size of the pulley in mind between the crank pulley and the water pump pulley. The really small pulley on some of the 2 hole later pumps will dramatically over speed the fan when used with stock large crank pulley. I would be concerned about fan failure. Testing the 235/261 engines on the stand it was obvious that the fan was turning way to fast. The air stream over the engine was actually pulling oil out of the oil breather. So use the crank and water pump pulleys in sets.

2. If you decide to change the pulley some are bolted on and some are swedged directly to the water pump shaft. Those are very hard to remove without breaking or bending something.

3. The water flow tests I did was to confirm that the 235/261 stock water pumps and the modified 2 hole with adapter plate had the same or similar GPW flow rates through the normal operational RPM range, they do.

Will look to see if I've got good photos of which water pumps I used on which engines and what are the differences.

Cheers Phil

[Jordan Baker]

Thanks Phil and all for all your help.

I'm seriously looking into making an adaptor plate for the early one hole pump to mount to the two hole block. It's frustrating as the throttle linkages all line up perfectly when the one hole pump is used.

I played around with some paper this morning using theo one hole backing plate as he basic pattern. I then overlayed the two hole plate and traced out the two holes. The blue is the holes in the block. The green is where the frost plug is located. The yellow is the original one hole pump hole as found on its backing plate. The cutout portion of the paper is what I'm proposing to remove from the block to give the same amount of flow.

Concerns I have and I have a few.

Obviously drilling into a block and removing material is worrisome. The two small blue circles are the original threaded holes. On the inside of the casting they are solid. If I were to screw in some small set screws would that help make it more solid? On my drawing the two lower red circles are where new holes would have to be drilled and threaded to mount the lower water pump bolts. When I've read over the 235/261 adaptor plate instructions they have you drill new holes.

Thoughts?

[Phil Waterman]

Hi Jordan

If you can make it work be sure to document how, as the two hole pumps seem to still be available and one not you might not only have a solution for you problem but a product that you could sell on line.

I have just spent the last 2 hours searching on line for the one hole pumps not a one to be found. While the 2 hole seem relatively common even through NAPA.

Cheers Phil

[David Dunlop]

Just a thought, Jordan. How much space is there to play with in the original engine and radiator setup, between the back of the rad core and the fan blades? That may limit how thick an adapter plate you can get away with creating.

David

[Jordan Baker]

I've found a number of one hole rebuild kits online. The MB-C2 has quite a lengthy section on rebuilding the one hole pump. So at least the information is available. See page P2 in MB-C2

The adaptor plate would only be the same thickness as the original backing plate already used on the water pumps. It's only 5/32" thick.

What the thoughts on drill a few more holes in the front of the block?

[Grant Bowker]

Originally Posted by Jordan Baker

What the thoughts on drill a few more holes in the front of the block?

With your reputation for horse shoes, do you know anyone with a "useless" block (for example badly cracked in the rear part or worn beyond rebore/sleeve limits) that would let you have the block to experiment on rather than using your running engine for the trial?

[Phil Waterman]

Hi Grant

Yes, I've done it both free hand with a hand drill and with a drill press. Go with the drill press. I use a small in expensive bench drill press same one I use to drill frame holes. There are plenty of bolt holes on the front of the engine to mount the table plate to.

Drill press.jpg

Did this when I did the water pump on the 235 or 261 and it was much easier than using hand drill. Big difference is that you can get a straight tight hole that taps well for threads.

The big issue on the adapter plate was the holes that have a space between the face of the block and the machined face of the old water pump face. Hard to get the bolts tight without warping the plate casing a leak. I made spacers so that the adapter plate was completely supported.

When I drilled the block on the 235 to convert it to full flow filter I had the block stripped and mounted on engine rotisserie that time use the regular floor standing drill press, just dropped the work table down enough to get under the engine and lowered the head enough to get with in drill range. Drill slow and use oil on the drill and a sharp new drill get a nice hole that way.

Drill Engine on press.jpg

When all else fails use nuts.

Screen Shot 2018-01-10 at 4.51.58 PM.jpg

Cheers Phil