Wireless Set No. 52 Canadian - Project

[Bruce Parker (RIP)]

Originally Posted by David Dunlop

Quick question regarding the FREQENCY MC Label above the tuning dial.

Between the Red and Blue Flick Indicator windows are the letters A and B. Are these two letters also painted red and blue, or should they be white? I have seen both formats, but not in enough quantity to determine which is correct, or if both are, depending on time if production.

David

They are red and blue on a white background. I expect they are decals.

Joe, I looked for photo's of 52 sets in 2K1 wireless bodies (15cwt trucks) and the C15TA with no luck. My comments are based on pictures I've seen in the past, probably at the old Sigs museum in Kingston. If I recall, the 15cwt was postwar.

[David Dunlop]

Gee, Bruce. You do realize now, that there are three variations of this decal apparently out there.

- All black between the two colour coded Flick Indicator rings, with a White A and B.

- All black between the two colour coded Flick Indicator rings, with a red A and a blue B.

- A white rectangle between the two colour coded Flick Indicator rings, with a red A and a blue B.

I knew this wasn’t going to be an easy project.

David

[David Dunlop]

Well, a final close inspection of this Receiver chassis shows it to be in very good condition with only two wiring issues turning up and one missing valve shield cap. Valves not yet tested, however.

I have a wire on the ground side of the speaker that has broken free from the Meter Switch. This should be a simple resolder job once the correct terminal to attach it to on the switch has been confirmed.

On a more serious note, the middle terminal wafer on the Mode of Operation switch has been shattered. These switches were designed to be taken apart for situations such as this. Just need to determine best repair/replacement option. Dealing with the middle wafer only involves 6 soldered terminals to deal with. To replace the entire switch means dealing with 23 soldered terminals.

David

[David Dunlop]

The power socket on the back of the 52-Set receiver has 7 clips in it.

Can anyone post a photo of the corresponding plug on the Remote Receiver Supply cable? I am guessing there are fewer than 7 tabs on the cable plug since when the receiver is in remote mode, the transmitter and main set PSU connections would be irrelevant.

I am trying to sort out the various circuit diagrams this morning, when compared with reality, and I don’t think the coffee is kicking in yet.

David

[Chris Suslowicz]

I think you need +12V, +250V, Aerial and Earth/Chassis.

The remote receiver cable has an aerial terminal on the back of the plug and a cable to the AC/vibrator supply unit.

(Not that I've ever seen one in real life.)

Chris.

[David Dunlop]

That was my thought as well, Chris.

The Remote Supply output is through a three tab Jones plug setup and I was thinking the +12 and the +150 (lower HT value) were two likely candidates, along with a ground circuit.

When I compare the tab layout on the Supply Cable I have, two tabs indeed match up with the +12 and +150 clips on the receiver socket. However, the third tab on the cable plug goes into a dead space with no designated clip on the receiver socket.

No sign of Bubba being at the receiver, but maybe he was playing with the cable at some point. Adding to the puzzle, there are no labels on the cable plug tabs to ID them.

David

[Chris Suslowicz]

Maybe you don't have a remote receiver?

I have some stripped-out sockets downstairs and will have a look later tonight - they have decals with the connection details on them.

Chris.

[Chris Suslowicz]

Originally Posted by David Dunlop

On a more serious note, the middle terminal wafer on the Mode of Operation switch has been shattered. These switches were designed to be taken apart for situations such as this. Just need to determine best repair/replacement option. Dealing with the middle wafer only involves 6 soldered terminals to deal with. To replace the entire switch means dealing with 23 soldered terminals.

David

The 'Second to Fourth Echelon' EMER (F 524) has the wiring diagrams for the switch wafers, complete with wire colour codes. This may well be helpful.

Chris.
(I also note that it has a section on "Dismantling the Flick mechanism" (though not how to reassemble it from the resulting heap of small parts). I may have to write another article at some point.)