How To: Ford CMP "Blitz" miscellany

[Hanno Spoelstra]

Originally Posted by Jacques Reed

Anyway guys, this thread has been very helpful and all suggestions have been gratefully received. I, and many others, have a better idea of the issues of repairing a dent in an enclosed tank. I even enjoyed my magnetic experiment that didn't work. Just more info to add to the wealth of information and ideas out there.

Jacques, I like your inquisitive approach to solve problems and enjoy reading about it.

Thank you very much for your informative posts, I hope you continue to share your insights in the new year. Enjoy the Christmas break!

regards,
Hanno

[Ken Hughes]

You would need to purge the tank with exhaust gasses from a vehicle for a couple of hours before you did anything with heat,one old way from my panel beating days was to clean the area thats damaged and solder a stick of body solder on to the damaged area let it cool and pull the stick and hopefully the dent will come out,modern body shops have dent pullers that weld a stud on and can be pulled as well.
The inside of the tank is soldered all over so that might be a problem down the track with heating it. it may be better to fill the dent or the big extreme make a new tank which i have done.

[sth65pac]

Gents,

Not so sure about the dates of the tabs appearing.

My truck has the plate on the front (its a 1942) and the other 1942 cowl (truck now deceased) I have, has the tabs described on the front. (sorry hard to see with a very small sized picture!!!)

These pictures are over 10 years old.

Cheers,

Ian

[Jacques Reed]

Hi Ian,

I am not sure but the one bracket on the right side of the cowl in your photo looks like a Tac sign holder similar to the one in the attached photo.

My first truck lacked the welded on tabs for the Bridge disk also, but had the Tac sign bracket on the left side of the front cowl. The Bridge weight limit was painted on the top of the right hand cowl.

The spacing on my TAC sign mounting holes are 4" apart but the bridge disk mounting holes are 5" apart. That might not mean anything, however, depending on the diameter of a bridge disk

Perhaps someone more learned in vehicle markings can shed some more light on it.

Cheers,

[Jacques Reed]

Good Day,

Thought I might dust off this old thread.

Been doing a lot of various work on the F15-A since the last post here. Much of it has been covered elsewhere such as bending up new brake and fuel lines, fabricating wiring harnesses, making hand brake cable clips etc.

Recently I have been rebuilding my transmission and in the process, swapping NOS gears and shafts from one case to another.

Thought the following may be of interest:

Removing the countershaft is fairly straightforward. A bit of persuasion with a hammer and brass drift is all that is needed. Getting access to the reverse idler shaft is another matter.
I made up a mini Jack as shown in the picture using a bit of ½” UNC threaded rod 4” long, ¾” pipe 2-1/2” long, 3 x ½-UNC nuts, I x washer, and 2 x 13/16” AF spanners. The short one I cut down from an old bent one of my Dad's
It worked very well. On one transmission the shaft did not want to budge easily so I heated the boss at the shaft with just a propane torch not wanting to put too much heat into the casting or risk breaking the boss with too much force on the jack. After about 30 seconds of applied heat it moved very easily. Probably just needed to soften up the gunk between the shaft and the boss. The brass drift in the countershaft holes keeps the cut down spanner from turning and frees up a hand in a tight space.

I salvaged the bearing retainer rings from a third transmission. Struggled with a screwdriver slipping off the rings, and chasing the rings around the groove in the case. I thought if I could grip them that would be an easier way to remove them. After trying various pliers which could not get the right angle onto them I remembered my Vice Grip nut holder pliers.
It worked perfectly. It has the correct angle to reach inside the bearing pocket to grip the rings. Pulled them out in about 10 seconds each after wasting half an hour trying other methods.
Those nut holder pliers are a great tool and especially if there is no one around to hold a spanner "on the other side". And as shown, they can do other things that are not their main purpose.

Hope this is of some interest.

Cheers,

[Grant Bowker]

Thank you for more helpful hints.
In creating your jacking bolts, you may find that a fine thread will apply force more smoothly and maybe more force on the parts you want to move for the same effort on your part due to the smaller angle on the threads.

[Jacques Reed]

Hi Grant,

Good thinking! I used what was available but a 1/2-20 UNF thread would probably be better for more force. I am sure it will give others ideas based on what they have at hand.

Cheers,