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#1
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Mine turned up on Kijiji in Edmonton, and was publicized here on CGN.
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Terry Warner - 74-????? M151A2 - 70-08876 M38A1 - 53-71233 M100CDN trailer Beware! The Green Disease walks among us! |
#2
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I am now confused about which spark plugs to use....I finally pulled the plugs from my M38A1-CDN2...the first plug closest to the rad was an Autolite 2245...the rest of them were Autolite 2243.....all 4 came out well and all 4 had a light tan colored resistor/ceramic (is this good?).
OK...so which spark plug (Autolite 2243 or 2245)is correct for this application (F head) as I am confused. An on line jeep store sent me Autolite 2243's a month ago before I realized that there may be other more appropriate applications. Thanks for your response. les |
#3
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2243 is the equivalent of the old Auto-lite AR5s, which is the cold plug. If you have an oil control problem, or the plugs foul up, then 2245 (AR7s) is the plug to use.
There are also the Champion XMJ14 and XMJ17 which are interchangeable. The Champions now use a new number which I don't know off the top of my head but is easy enough to find. My information is that Autolite is no longer making the 2245, and may have also dropped the 2243, so it is going to get a little harder (and expensive) to get plugs in the future. I can still get 2243 plugs at under $13 a plug. The Champions are up around $28 a plug with a trade price of arouns $18. |
#4
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Thanks Rob....I guess I will be buying more 2243's....the plugs were not fouled (all three 2243 & the single 2245 I took out) in fact they were all nice light tan on the insulator suggesting a clean burn....which leads me to my next question....then where is my oil going?.....I am loosing about 1/2 a quart of 15W40 in approx. 200-300kms. There is no visible oil in the coolant (which has remained new looking and bright green), the exhaust does not blow blue smoke on start-up (valve seals) nor smokes on the drive....I leak 1-2 drops per day from the area around the rear main seal and that's it. Where is the oil going?
Regards, les |
#5
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1/2 a quart in that time/mileage period is quite bad. You have covered the only 3 places it could go. Leakage standing still is not relevant, especially one to two drops per day.
Take a measuring cup and fill it with a half liter of water. Pour that on the ground and you'll see just how big a puddle you are talking about. Huge. So either you are burning it, or leaking it. I would suggest leaking. Run the front wheels up on a pair of those little metal Cdn tire ramps like you might use for an oil change, and leave the vehicle running. Now you will see what the true oil leakage will be if it is from the rear main. If it is not leaking then it is burning it. You have no idea how old those plugs are......they could have been changed a week before you bought the Jeep. Try a compression check. Cylinders should be at 120-125 each with the engine warm. Anything lower will indicate worn rings. What I normally found was that the cylinders would deeply score. These old engines have a very long stroke, and the scoring would go all the way from the top to the bottom, and deep. In my experience, once compression was below 115, you were in trouble. At 110 consumption would get very high, and at 90 you will have trouble just to get the Jeep to start on a cold day. Perhaps that is why you had a 2245 plug in the one cylinder? |
#6
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Thanks for your patience....I am under the jeep several hours a day and I can tell you there is no engine oil leak anywhere (I have cardboard under the jeep 24/7) with the exception of 1-3 drops from the rear main seal.
Only the first plug was a 2245...the remainder were 2243's...and all had the same light colored tan insulator and electrode suggesting even burn/ignition in all cylinders.....your opinion? Also, no visible blue smoke on start or while driving. What about a blocked PCV valve? Last question....brake fluid.....where to add and what type...dot 3? Regards, les |
#7
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Here is something you can try. Before our next outing, find a 1/8 pipe plug and put it in the drain hole of the bellhousing. After your ride, remove the drain plug and see what comes out.
I don't think a blcked PCV is your issue. But it is possible the fording valves are wired wrong. I have seen (once) where the arm was 90° out and the valve had been wired closed instead of open. |
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