Info needed: 1967 M38A1 Lubrication?

[Les Kovacs]

Hi Rob & Terry....thanks for both reply's....I agree with Terry....I am sure that all the questions & responses in this post have been done before.....but probably not all in one place/post....case in point...I have saved all the questions & responses from Rob and et Al in a word document.....when it comes time to actually work on the jeep when parts start arriving....I have the info-details from people that have actually been there as well as following the 3 manuals I bought from Brian Asbury.

OK Rob....another question regarding the shorting of the panel just to confirm...as per you email...."you either have to run a ground to the panel, or else re-install the panel back in place. The best solution is to make up a short wire permanently installed form the dash to the panel."

So, Question....if the panel is off...and you have completed the replacement of the EG: temp gauge & sender you can replace the panel to the dash before you turn the ignition on and you should be golden....correct? It sounds like the bottom line is that you cannot turn on the ignition before you put the panel back on the dash to ground the panel...correct?

les

[hrpearce]

Originally Posted by Les Kovacs

It sounds like the bottom line is that you cannot turn on the ignition before you put the panel back on the dash to ground the panel...correct?

les

That is correct, saves any chance of failure. I would leave the keys on the bench till the work was complete.

[rob love]

Originally Posted by hrpearce

That is correct, saves any chance of failure. I would leave the keys on the bench till the work was complete.

Problem with that is that there are no keys (unless the jeep is modified to have one). Instead there is a lever type switch just itching to accidentally get knocked on during the installation.

[Les Kovacs]

Thanks for both responses....so I will leave ignition off until after replacing panel back onto dash.

PS....I do not have ignition keys.....I do have the dash on/off lever but I also have a green plastic lever in the engine bay next to the starter that all the heavy duty wires go into....its a main power shut off to all electrical in the engine bay...I turn this off along with the dash ignition when not using the jeep.

Regards,

les

[Les Kovacs]

Hi Rob,

I have more questions if you have the time....

I will be adjusting the carb mixture come Sunday....I know that I cannot turn in the screw hard....but, can you please tell me which way is rich & which way is lean....left turn or right turn....I would just like to know what I am doing when turning the mixture adjustment screw.

Secondly, it appears that I have a 67' CDN2 that has had a few updated modifications by DOD aside from turn signals & seat belts....I apparently have the air filter out of a M151 Mutt. If your familiar with them, what is the plastic spaghetti like material in the top of the filter housing and where can I get it new?....its now a little brittle and I am afraid that pieces will break off and get into the carb.

Regards,

les

[rob love]

The screw is right hand thread and when screwed all the way in stops the flow of fuel. So, looking at it from the side of the Jeep, with the engine at operating temperature, you screw it clockwise (inward) until the Jeep starts to stumble, then start backing out very slowly until you reach the highest RPM. Once you start making it too rich, the RPMs will actually drop slightly.

Ideally, you would have a tachometer hooked up, but with the waterproof ignition that gets a little complicated. There are also timing lights with digital RPM gauges on them, but it is actually getting harder to buy a timing light these days.

It was not a modification to have the M151 type aircleaner...that was standard on the CDN2 and CDN3 Jeeps. I have never heard of the plastic "horsehair" coming apart....leave it alone and you will be fine.

[Les Kovacs]

Wow...quick reply...thanks for the more detailed info as per carb adjustment.

Never heard of plastic "horse hair" filtration media...but, if it does not become too brittle and fall apart....I am not worried. I have however poured kerosene into the top half/cover with the "horsehair" in it...swished the kerosene around for 3-5 min then poured out the mean looking goo....did this twice until what came out was somewhat clean....also cleaned the SOS pad like media in the lower half as well as replace the oil at the bottom and cleaned out the whole housing. Hopefully, kerosene was the proper cleaning fluid to use.

Thanks again,

les