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Hi David
It makes perfect sense to me after being up all night from night shift. Lol. I had not thought of the idea of my having enough room to get a spanner in there for securing the tray. I've made a mold of the black one. My intent is to recast new rubber with the broken ones with new made metal ends.
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Jordan Baker RHLI Museum, Otter LRC C15A-Wire3, 1944 Willys MB, 1942 10cwt Canadian trailer |
#2
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Sounds like an interesting project, Jordan. If you want to drill and tap the tops for the correct BA hardware, there is a company just outside of Boston that sells it. If memory serves me today, the cheesehead screw required has a 3/4 inch thread length and one inch is the common size today. I found they trim down just fine and the company in question is great to deal with.
Also, I recall about a year ago, somewhere on the forum, somebody in Australia posting that the stock these bridges are made from is still in production and available in certain lengths from somewhere. It is basically a long slab of the three steel and two rubber sections already bonded together. Cannot find the thread right now, but if still available all you would need is a shop style electric hacksaw to set the stock into to slice off the right sized pieces for drilling and tapping the three appropriate holes. Now go get some sleep. I'm finally into the tea now. David |
#3
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We had this thread a few years back. Rob Love indicates a supplier of a modern equivalent.
http://www.mapleleafup.net/forums/sh...ad.php?t=22650 Ron |
#4
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Thanks for the links guys. I've been reading these old ones all week.
I was more interested in learning about the differences between the different styles I had pictured.
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Jordan Baker RHLI Museum, Otter LRC C15A-Wire3, 1944 Willys MB, 1942 10cwt Canadian trailer |
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