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  #1  
Old 26-04-17, 05:06
Jacques Reed Jacques Reed is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sth65pac View Post
Are there meant to be grease nipples here ??? (front of front springs?)
Hi Ian,
Nice looking F-15A for a starting point.

Yes, there are grease nipples there to answer your question.

Cheers,
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  #2  
Old 26-04-17, 09:05
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sth65pac sth65pac is offline
Ian Williams
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Bomaderry NSW
Posts: 341
Default Nipples!

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jacques Reed View Post
Hi Ian,
Nice looking F-15A for a starting point.

Yes, there are grease nipples there to answer your question.

Cheers,
Many thanks Jacques... Added to my I need it list
Purchased today QTY 20. Thank-you for the clarification.

Cheers,

Ian
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F15A,
2x Army Land Rover 88' sIIA's
GPW
Other stuff

Last edited by sth65pac; 28-05-17 at 07:54. Reason: New Information
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  #3  
Old 26-04-17, 11:32
Jacques Reed Jacques Reed is offline
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Default Types of grease fitting threads

Hi Ian,

You may know this, but be careful when buying grease nipples as there are a few types of threads available. Society of Automotive Engineers- Lubrication Thread (SAE-LT) is the type mainly used on cars and trucks. It has a tapered thread to form a tight seal and is screwed into a parallel sided UNF tapped hole.

There are also Metric threads, BSP threads and NPT threads available. Some are not tapered either. Some are close in size but will not seal or tighten up, and more likely strip the threaded hole. Australia prefers BSP pipe sizes with Metric sizes on Chinese stuff, and the US prefers NPT pipe sizes.

If you have an original sample best to match the thread type up to that.

Hope this is of some help to you and others. I learnt this the hard way ordering grease nipples on my Korean built ship with British, Chinese, and Japanese machinery on board. Think she went to the breakers with a few boxes of unused wrong type grease fittings on board!

Cheers,
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  #4  
Old 28-04-17, 10:23
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sth65pac sth65pac is offline
Ian Williams
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Bomaderry NSW
Posts: 341
Default Minor Friday

A little more progress, Fuel tank removed and all the JUNK from the rear.

I have a twisty step, I am probably going to attach a long bar to it and bend it back the way it was (I hope).

Cab remains will be removed tomorrow I hope.

and the dreaded rear cross-member.
Hopefully it will spring back to the original line. If not I have a hydraulic pack to persuade it in to alignment. I will cut off all the rivets and replace it. That means making having a new one made in the coming weeks.

Cheers,

Ian
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Ian Williams

F15A,
2x Army Land Rover 88' sIIA's
GPW
Other stuff

Last edited by sth65pac; 07-07-17 at 08:53.
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  #5  
Old 28-04-17, 10:25
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sth65pac sth65pac is offline
Ian Williams
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Bomaderry NSW
Posts: 341
Default Oh and....

This is looking at it end on. Not good

Hopefully I can get this all straight.

Cheers,

Ian
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Ian Williams

F15A,
2x Army Land Rover 88' sIIA's
GPW
Other stuff

Last edited by sth65pac; 07-07-17 at 08:53.
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  #6  
Old 30-04-17, 01:09
T Creighton T Creighton is offline
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Default Rear Xmember and fish plates

Hi Ian,
Good to see you are getting back into the restoration again.
You say in the beginning that you are not a perfectionist. Even so, pulling that rear end completely out, getting rid of the rust that will be between the plates, making a new xmember, painting it and riveting it all back together again will give you lots of satisfaction when you stand back and look at the finished job.

Re the paint:
On my current Morris Commercial job I am using Wattyl Solarguard roof paint over PPG Industrial Coatings Protecto Primer. Sandblasted and hand prepared steel. Good for wood as well.
Guaranteed for 15 years on house roofs so no porosity with that and it's so easy to apply by brush or spray.
10 times easier than the 2 pot "Lechsys" system that I used on the Ford restoration and no horrible solvents involved. A lot cheaper as well.
Their stock "Karaka" colour suits me fine but they will probably tint it to whatever colour you want.
Best regards, Terry
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  #7  
Old 30-04-17, 10:23
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sth65pac sth65pac is offline
Ian Williams
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Bomaderry NSW
Posts: 341
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Quote:
Originally Posted by T Creighton View Post
Hi Ian,
Good to see you are getting back into the restoration again.
You say in the beginning that you are not a perfectionist. Even so, pulling that rear end completely out, getting rid of the rust that will be between the plates, making a new xmember, painting it and riveting it all back together again will give you lots of satisfaction when you stand back and look at the finished job.

Re the paint:
On my current Morris Commercial job I am using Wattyl Solarguard roof paint over PPG Industrial Coatings Protecto Primer. Sandblasted and hand prepared steel. Good for wood as well.
Guaranteed for 15 years on house roofs so no porosity with that and it's so easy to apply by brush or spray.
10 times easier than the 2 pot "Lechsys" system that I used on the Ford restoration and no horrible solvents involved. A lot cheaper as well.
Their stock "Karaka" colour suits me fine but they will probably tint it to whatever colour you want.
Best regards, Terry
Thanks Terry,
I am going to use my favoured paint of Concept. It is not cheap but it remains pretty stable in colour and finish. Wattyl in my neck of the woods is a swear word lol.

Cheers,
Ian
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2x Army Land Rover 88' sIIA's
GPW
Other stuff
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