How To: Restoration of Ford M8 armoured car US Ordnance number 7373

[Big D]

Hi all,

Just a short update on progress on the M8.

I had some OD paint mixed up by a local vehicle paint specialist, using a Lustreless OD sample provided by Midwest Military. The paint supplied by the local company was a two pack with paint and hardener, with a matting agent in the paint to give it a flat look.

I got some of the painted parts back and the painter and I learnt an interesting lesson in the application of paint with matting agents in it. As you can see, some of the parts have a semi-gloss look to it, while others have the correct flat look. The painter worked out that the best way to apply the paint was by way of a ‘dusting’. When he painted some of the parts like he would have painted a car, layering the paint on a bit heavier, then it came out shinier. I’ve also since heard that too much hardener can have this effect. The finish on the brake backing plate as pictured is bang-on compared to the paint sample I had, so I am happy with the mix. We’ll just have to monitor the application and finish.

We started working on the front floor yesterday. As you will recall, I had two options; one was to tear the armoured floor out and fabricate a new sheet metal floor using the bulge and a couple of other parts from the old floor piece I bought in Europe. Option 2 was to leave the armoured floor in place and build it up again to what it would have looked like.

In the end, I have gone with a combination of both. I had already taken out the rear part of the armoured floor as the welds had fractured and needed cleaning up and re-welding. We have used what we could off the old part of the floor which was the diff bulge and spigot for the steering box shaft and the mount for the foot accelerator pedal. We have aligned everything as it should be and are in the process of stitch welding the remnants of the old floor onto the underside of the armoured floor.

We have also created a flange to go around the top of the floor around the join between the bulge and the armoured floor. We will mig weld around this to create a seam and then use a sealer to seal it off underneath. It should look nice and tidy once I clean the welding up with a flap disc.

I figured there was just too much time and cost involved in gouging out the armoured floor, cleaning up the hull and then recreating almost from scratch a new sheet metal floor with the bulge placed into it.

I'll post some more pictures next week after we've finished the welding.

[Andrew Rowe]

Hi Darryl , the flatning agent in paint can also separate from the main colours, so stirring well mechanically is well advised. I am using 150% flatning agent, and have noticed the same effect, Cheers Andrew.

[Lynn Eades]

Andrew, I assume 15%? Btw, you can edit your post.

[Big D]

Hi Andrew and Lynn

Thanks for that. Yes, I know the painter won't be caught out like that again. Interesting how much contrast one can get from the same tin of paint, with the parts being sprayed at the same time!

[Tony Smith]

I've found with paints that contain a flattening agent, that they can be porous and not offer much corrosion protection. A way to counter this is the apply the first coat heavy (to hell with the gloss!) to achieve a a solid film thickness, then use a second (or third) coat to master the light application for a flatter finish.

[Big D]

Hi Tony,

Yes, that makes good sense. I will let the painter know that.

[Big D]

Hi all,

Here are a few more photos of the progress on the floor and rear wall of the hull.

The front floor diff bulge is now in place. I debated sanding back the weld around the flange but I think it looks pretty good as it is. It may not look quite right compared with period photos, but then what was right? I’ll complete the section over the front cross member once the centre part of the floor is done and I can work out how it will all meet.

I fabricated the rear panel in the fighting compartment using some sheet metal. In the end I opted for a simple flat sheet, rather than the original’s angled pressed shape in the middle. Some heat was required to straighten the cross member in the engine bay to get the panel to sit flat. The panel should do the job and look good but I’ve yet to weld on the threaded fixing points for the grenade and flare boxes.

Using a pattern I made up from photos and measurements from the hull, I cut the rear floor piece. With the aid of my engineering guys we have folded it up to the right angles of the floor. It looks like it will fit nicely, although I didn’t quite get the shape of the rearmost mounting fold right. The corners should have followed the angled sides of the hull, but overall it is not too bad so far.

I still need to cut the centre of the rear floor next and build it up to the right height and angle to meet the centre floor section. To do that though, I need to work out where it will meet the centre floor piece, so I need to get onto cutting, folding and welding that centre section up next. To that end, I could use some assistance with the dimensions of that centre piece.

I’ve attached a picture of the centre floor piece I'm going to fabricate. I’m not sure where I downloaded the the picture from now and in fact I think it is an M20 floor, but hopefully the owner doesn’t mind me using it!

Can anyone give me the dimensions of this piece please as shown on the photo? I know this section doesn’t totally follow the shape of the cross member underneath it. From what I can see it is angled to follow the shape of the cross member on the co-driver side and flat where the water jerry can will sit on the driver's side. I'm just not sure of the width and angles on this side though.

Where does the rear section of floor meet with the centre section? I like the idea of being able to remove the floor pieces so I’d like to bolt the rear and centre sections together if I can. I get the impression that they join just rearward of the cross-member, but I'd like to get confirmation of that please.

Any help would be appreciated!

Thanks.