Idle problem on C15 261 CU IN

[Bob Carriere]

Hi Terry

................ Hi Phil

My truck has a GMC civilain rectangular dash. Only the gas gauge and the amp meter are connected and working. I used a voltage reducer on the gas guage and the amp meter as is.

I am using an after market mechanical heat guage with the bulb installed on top of the steam outlet on the original 216. I also have a mechanical oil pressure and a vacuum gauge. I later installed a tachometer......all in the interest of better monitoring the performance of the engine..... they may be removed at a later date not sure when as I now depend on them.

Nice to know you are doing 2000 rpm at 30 some mph even though the engine is screaming and the gears whining all is good. Gets close to 2900 at 44 mph flat out..... with me holding on tight. Nicer to drive at 30 - 35 mph just relaxing.

Really curious to see what kind of readings you get when you have a proper manifold connection.

Phil........ any tips or tricks you want to share....?

On a 248 GMC fire truck engine they actually add a 5 to 6 inch adapter/spacer for clearance purposes with other do-dads installed on the engine. I have read somewhere, from hot rod sources, that increasing the length of the air flow and increasing the size of the vaccum plenum is beneficial to engine performance...... so an extra inch spacer certainly will not hurt. Just make sure that you have a good seal on all joints..... paper gasket smeared very lightly with silicone sealer works great for me. Just apply the silicone to index and thumb and smear the paper...... gets tacky and compresses well with no overkill silicone getting inside parts.

Phil are you using a NOS spacer or a homemade one??? they do come up on Ebay once in a while.

Cheers

[TCLARK]

Hi Phil and Bob
Phil you were right just a small hole to suck vaccuum thru for the
distributor. I would guess for dampening also.

Bob I just got the spacer made ,it took about an hour but visiting neighbors
for a piece of 5/8 flat took half the day.
I put it all together and voila about 20 inces at 475 rpm idle. I'm
so happy, this engine purrs like never before.

Now I have to hook up the wipers does anyone know where to get the proper Blades?? I have one new nos wiper arm I got at a swap meet (even orig. OD) and one not
so good but usable. How does the blade attach to the arm?

Cheers and thanks for the great advice!
Terry

[Bob Carriere]

Good show.....

Now how about a picture of the spacer???? and your wiper arms......

.........will Photo some of my wiper arms and wipers... and post later tomorrow....usually available from most Jeep repro sellers.

so glad it worked out for you.

Now that you are getting a better reading...... try getting a higher reading first with the dizzy then with the mixture screw on the carb try for 21 near 22.....

Cheers

[rob love]

The old trico wiper blades were/are still used on the MLVW. I believe they are 11 or 12" long. You can find the same design bladfes as short as 4-1/2" long. Have a look on ebay for M35 wiper blade, or M38A1 wiper blade. If the blades you get are too long, you can cut them down with a dremel tool with cut-off wheel.


http://www.ebay.com/itm/Wiper-Blade-...5R6DvU&vxp=mtr

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Jeep-Willys-...5X0xFj&vxp=mtr

[Bob Carriere]

I am using M37 wiper blades...... supposed to be NOS..... so dry and hard.

You might want to clean the rubber with a 300 or 400 grit sand paper and use rainex compound on both the inside and outside of your windshield.......

At best they will allow you to meet the legal requirements........ on your best day they will wipe a little bit........... best to stay home in bad storms.

I took my wiper motor apart ....cleaned up all the dried grease, bugs, spider webs and reassembled with synthetic silicon grease..... very lightly on the grease............... they work real well flapping away while going down hill on engine compression and 25+ in. of vacuum..... otherwise stick you head out the side window. We found wiper gaskets on Ebay at $20 a pair.... yes you need two per side...... then decided to use the scanner and photocopy them on light card stock and smear the card stock with silicone..... works beautiful but you need an Xacto knife to cut out the gasket and the intricate holes and slots into the gasket...... but it works!!!!

Cheers

Cheers

[rob love]

I agree with your grease choice for the wipers Bob, and moreso in the arctic conditions experienced in this neck of the woods. I use Dow corning 55 o-ring lubricant. It will fill and seal any scrapes in the wiper housing while at the same time staying pliable even when freezing. I use the same grease on the M-series trailer plugs.

It was always standard to find a mud wasp nest in the little tube leading from the wiper motors.

[TCLARK]

Here is a pic of the spacer, I also drilled and tapped the other side
but plgged it off.
I smeared a tiny amount of "the Right Stuff" on the manifold gasket. Good seal

The wiper arm and motor I think are original cmp or possibly jeep.
I have good wiper motors and one more arm. Just need the blades

I found this in an old drawer in the shop Looks 40's era, its just a
glorified Vacuum gauge but still works,also includes instructions ha ha
Terry

[TCLARK]

I just found blades that will go on these arms.
They are called "hook and Saddle" blades. They are sold
on ebay and elsewhere ...around 6 to 7 USD +shipping
Cheers
Terry