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  #1  
Old 03-11-16, 12:12
Martin Dauphinais Martin Dauphinais is offline
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Thanks Adrian! I did have the same thought… I just hope I'll be able to try it one day with the Jeep I have to restore. I don't think the wax can suck in by the heat, it should be completely sealed by the rust!

Martin
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Old 03-11-16, 12:19
tankbarrell tankbarrell is offline
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Exactly Martin! If there is a gap for the wax to get in, the thread is not rusted solid.
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Old 03-11-16, 15:10
maple_leaf_eh maple_leaf_eh is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tankbarrell View Post
Exactly Martin! If there is a gap for the wax to get in, the thread is not rusted solid.
The wax wicks into whatever crevices exist, theoretically around and between the rust particles. The heat also disrupts that bond. by expansion. The demonstration's second message is that forcing a stuck nut or bolt will break it.
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Old 03-11-16, 16:23
tankbarrell tankbarrell is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by maple_leaf_eh View Post
The wax wicks into whatever crevices exist, theoretically around and between the rust particles. The heat also disrupts that bond. by expansion. The demonstration's second message is that forcing a stuck nut or bolt will break it.
You won't get enough heat with a lighter to expand steel.

Has anybody tried this properly?
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  #5  
Old 03-11-16, 15:17
Russ Gregg Russ Gregg is offline
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I have never tried it but rust by nature is porous and capillary action doesn't require much clearance. Mind you the level of rust between an old road car wheel and an original bolt on a 75 year old piece of armour are several orders of magnitude apart. I'd be interested to hear how it works if anyone tries it, I've got too much newer stuff that needs fixing at the moment.
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