How To: C15a Wire-3 restoration

[Jordan Baker]

I wonder if there had been a production change along the way. I know that mine uses counter sunk screws pushed in from the bottom. The backing ring that fits on the inside of the roof has all the holes countersunk.

Great site Rob. They have quite the collection. I don't mind the zinc as it helps keeps the threads rust free longer. A few years ago I made up a plate to hol a pile of fasteners so I can sandblast off the zinc from the head. Then spray self etch primer all without having them fall over. Works great.

[David Herbert]

Most zinc plated fasteners have a tiny amount of zinc on them, just enough that they look pretty on delivery. This is very easily removed in some old battery acid overnight if you really hate it. When you pull them out give them a good wash in clean, hot water and ideally a dip in a phosphoric acid based rust remover.

I totaly agree about no Phillips/Pozy screw heads but there are some Phillips heads that were originally used in the turret of Shermans which really suprised me. From memory they are in part of the stabliser mechanism.

David

[Jordan Baker]

Ive thought about soaking them but I find the sandblasting cabinet works very fast for me. With my home made holder I can then prime them again before using them.

And with a quick phone call to Fastenal this morning to confirm that my order was in. I made the drive to my local store.

Before installing I used up the last of my anti-squeak material lining both sides of the wooden spacer ring. Once this was on, it was onto the install and everything lined up rather well with the aid of some long punches. Not pictured is the after look of cutting down the too long screws and using a sanding disk to smooth them down to the nuts.

I just have to make up the small metal curved strip that secures the canvas cover.

[Jordan Baker]

Ive been a little busy working on some side projects before winter arrived so hence the lack of updates on the CMP project.

This past week I picked up the basic steel needed for making up the tail gate on my wire-3 box. I plan on forming all of the channels myself on a metal brake I picked up.

Right now I'm just working on cutting out the basic shape in 14ga sheet.

[Bob Carriere]

....... any pictures of the braking beauty????

Watching with great interest, has I have to do one for the my cab 11. Still debating whether to patch up the best 2B1 box I have or build a one new from scratch using what models I have as a pattern.

Did you ever noticed the difference ( and lessons learned from ripped pant seat bottoms).....

Viewed from the rear when closed the cab 11 tailgate is all smooth with all the bracing on the inside...... so when held open with chain you had a rough surface to sit on....

On the cab 13, all the bracing is facing outside ( so you have to do a good welding/fabricating job) and when the tailgate is open the inside is smooth........

Grant has found his jig for making his hinges from strap steel and should be posting soon.

Cheers

[Jordan Baker]

I made some great progress today. First I had to beef up the metal brake. Ill post more on that in another thread.

I finished cutting the tail gate panel by putting in the tail light holes and the foot step holes. For the tail light holes I used a 1-3\4" hole saw. It tends to wobble a bit while drilling with a hand drill. I then used a hand file to finish the edges out to the proper diameter. For the straight lines I used my trusty angle grinder with a zip disk and some steady hands. The foot holes were also cut out with the zip disk and then I finished them with a combination of a flap disk and a hand file. They took a bit of time but I really couldn't think of any other way to cut them out with the tools I have.

I had Metal Supermarket cut out all the sheet metal more on their shear. This saved me considerable time and ensured I had perfectly straight cuts and square corners. I bent all of the channels myself on the princess auto brake. The long channel had to be made in three pieces as the brake can only do 36" Even with the modifications, it was still stressing it quite a bit doing 16ga over 36" In the end it worked out well enough and I was able to tighten up the bends in the vise.

Before I do any welding, ill be cutting in the channels on the original tailgate to check for any reinforcing. I believe the hinges run the entire height of the tailgate.

When I first decided to rebuild the sides and the tailgate of the box, I didn't realize I would be doing the most difficult one first. However with how well it is going the sides should be pretty straight forward. (knock on wood)

[Wayne Hingley]

Looks great Jordan! You did good bending that metal on the PA brake. I tried using one my friend has, to bend some 16ga sheet metal, and anything longer than ~20" kept slipping on me. I was kind of nervous that I would brake it if I tightened it down any more.

Cant wait to see the finished product.

[Lynn Eades]

Here's a hint Jordan;
My mandrel doesn't have a drill bit in it. I have a bit of plain round tool steel in it.
I drill a clearance center hole with an ordinary drill bit. I then put a bit of oil on the plain pilot, poke it in the pre drilled hole and cut away with the hole saw. It dont wobble at all.
The reason why I did this was that I had trouble buying the correct pilot drill and most of them leave the clearing flutes of the drill bit at the same height as the teeth of the hole saw, which allows the hole saw to move sideways.