The joys of adjustable lifters

[Tony Wheeler]

Originally Posted by Lynn Eades

T.W. The logic behind going to adjustables was so that:
1. I could make a fine adjustment at any time in the future.
2. Because I don't have "friends with the gear" I have saved myself a small fortune in labour by doing as much as I can myself.

Yes, I'm starting to see the attraction Lynn. It occurred to me that curiosity alone might drive me to check valve clearances after running in, which is reason in itself to install adjustable lifters. But not if they're a nightmare to adjust. Just reading that first post of yours gave me nightmares!

I was very sorry to hear about your cracked blocks. It's quite common I'm led to believe, so I'm fully expecting same thing. Interesting comment from Mike D: "I am now collecting parts for my next race engine which will be a 284 cu. in. naturally aspirated unit. I will be using a 99 series block which is the same as my last two engines. They may not be as thick as some of the later blocks but are not as susceptible to cracking either."

Originally Posted by Lynn Eades

Nice lifters. M.D. doesn't mention them on his site. (no longer available?)

They are indeed nice lifters. I could talk myself into a set of those if they're still available. I do notice however that Mike D prefers stock lifters in his race motors: "Valve train components will consist of NOS Ford lifters, overlength Manley race flow 1.72" and 1.5" valves and Isky dual valve springs."

[Lynn Eades]

Tony, It only became "a nightmare" (which it isn't) because I decided To use the Ford 9N lifters, instead of the hollow (holes in sides)ones.
The other problem was not having on hand a second set of Johnson spanners (un ground)
The old factory set up with mushroom stems is fine if like Alex you have access to the right gear. I have looked around for an old valve refacer, but not yet landed on the right one. The other thing is I'm in my early sixties and not sure I need one anymore. I will use adjustables and one piece guides in any motor I do.

On a side note here are a couple of bits of info I have picked up just recently:

1) Bigger inlet valves gain you nothing until you have "upped the anti" in many other areas as well.

2) from a guy who is building V8 flatheads all the time (his business in the States)
He says bore size increase does very little in the power stakes, but increased stroke gives good gains.
He will not take on any Ford flathead v8 job unless the customer:
- 1. is prepared to go with using torque plates.
- 2.The installation of bronze lined guides.
Everything else is negotiable.
To me that is good advice.

[Stew Robertson]

I hate to be a spoil sport
but you guy are making a big deal out of getting these old flatties to power you carriers and trucks
They where installed in such, to power them from point A to B and there was never any big deal ( ger done)
they are what they are and they are not race engines
the mercury engine is the better because of the stroke but the 85 HP was alright in the trucks and carriers
When the military done a rebuild it was because the engine got tired
they took it out sent it back for new rings and bearings and kicked it out the door, very seldom a flatty needs a valve job other than lapping them in
and putting them back where they came out of

Now I am at 4 cents

[Tony Smith]

You're not a spoil sport, you're just pointing out the facts.

I don't think any of us are hoping for a fire breathing race engine, but are certainly aiming for reliability and a possible increase in efficiency. While it's certainly true that the military just threw the engines back together when they got tired, in some cases (ie Nth Africa Carrier engines), that was as often as every 1000 miles. By taking a little care in the rebuild, we're hoping for good longevity.

Also, in my case especially, you can't always buy NOS standard parts at the time you want it. I couldn't get new Mushroom head valves anywhere, so had to resort to 8BA or Chev valves. Finding a set of second-hand but still new-in-the-box Manley valves off e-bay meant that I not only saved a few bucks, but got a purported performance gain in the bargain. I searched high and low for new 8BA lifters and couldn't find a supplier. Used, worn ones were all I could get. They would do the job, I suppose, but I wanted new parts and adjustables made sense.

[Stew Robertson]

I understand where you are coming from
I did not realize you guy down under have trouble getting engine parts but are you guys going to put a1000 miles on a carrier with the throttle pinned to the floor
as that is the way they were driven
I drove a 42 Ford car and put well over 300,000 miles on it and never rebuilt it just added oil 9Now I would say that is pretty reliable and it did not leave me on the side of the road like some of this new S**T

[Lynn Eades]

Currently Stew there are 3 listings on "Trademe" (your Kijiji?)
There are two motors, laying outside. Both seized. One is early (should have) w. pumps in heads the other, later. Start price of auction $100.00
The next one is a motor and spare block $1900.00 start price. The last one is a motor that ran 2 years ago, listed at $3300.00.

I could buy parts to rebuild a motor from the various dealers in N.Z., but I find it's cheaper to import the bits myself. We are past the day when you can readily pick up a good motor for a low price. You need to be in the know or you pay and pay.
The block I am doing up came from a paddock where it had sat with no heads or sump and I broke the pistons out of it.
I do have a military block, that I haven't yet had crack tested that a chap from the Fordbarn forum (Brian B...... from Masterton) very generously gave me. I have another yet, up my sleeve (it feels better that way)

My experience has been that a 3 3/16 bore flatty, that the crank turns in, will cost about $500 to $800 with heads manifold, and sump in place. No other guarantees. Some ancilleries might come with it. A runner is another story.

I don't think the above two high price listings will sell, but it only takes one idiot.
As I stated early on in this thread, my first two blocks and cranks went to the scrap man, the blocks with cracks around the centre and rear mains.
If a motor was pulled many years ago, it has something wrong.(people ran them until they stopped, blew the dipstick out or they couldn't keep oil in them) If it is a complete motor, you might be lucky enough, that a hot rodder has pulled it to put in a Chev (It might be good, but he's looking to recover some costs)
Here it is in a nutshell:
If I could buy a good runner for cheap , I'd be in like Flynn, but if I have to rebuild it, I may as well do it properly.

[Lionelgee]

Hello All,

I learned something today that I did not know about before. "The Rockwell Test." I went on YouTube and found a video Accessed April 26th from, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G2JGNlIvNC4.

Then I realised that back in my High School Metalwork class we just referred to it as a type of "Hardness Test".

I did a quick search for what a "Johnson Spanners." might be.
All I could find was that it was the name of a tool manufacturer, or they were a tool used for working on Johnson outboard motors. Are Johnson Spanners a specialist type of spanner - if so what do they look like?

Kind Regards
Lionel