The joys of adjustable lifters

[The Bedford Boys]

I won't be bothering with adjustable lifters in my next V8. The blokes that put my engine together for me (long time V8 enthusiasts) reckon they could've had the valves done in half the time if I'd given them some standard lifters! They've got the gear, so it's a piece of cake for them. I was originally going to assemble the engine myself, which is why I bought the fancy adjustable ones because I thought they'd be easy!

[Tony Wheeler]

Lynn, Tony, Darrin, can I ask why you chose adjustable lifters in the first place? I've never understood the logic on V8 flatheads, because you can't ACCESS them in service. They make some sense for in-line flatheads, where they equate to adjustable tappets on OHV motors, but even so they still come at the cost of greatly increased weight requiring substantially heavier valve springs.

Tony Baker mentioned a while back: "Decision between solid and adjustable lifters was made for me, because the cam I am using has been ground for 'street' use. Adjusting the Johnson lifters is a PIG of a job. I am minus several portions of skin as a testament to that fact. No swear words were uttered, although they were thought! Even with the correct lifter adjustment tools, and a 7/16 open ended spanner I ground considerably thinner than originally intended, still a painfully slow process."

In fact Tony was misinformed. Even the wildest cam does not require adjustable lifters. If the base circle is reduced beyond the reach of the stock valve, the standard solution is to use SB Chev valves ground to the appropriate length, with 8BA lifters to suit the parallel stem valve, and replacement valve springs of the required length and tension (or suitably shimmed stock valve springs).

Tony also mentioned the potential risk with adjustable lifters: "I hope to christ they don't re-adjust themselves during operation. Not aware of any instances of this occuring, and certainly don't wish to be the first. Thought about putting a dob of threadlocker on each. Don't know that would be a good idea. Does that stuff still work in the heat of an engines internals?"

A quick search of the net would indicate this risk is real, eg. following exchange in Ford Barn forum:

"I put a set of adjustable lifters in one of my 1940 Ford engines. Started the car and it sounded great. Two days later lifter noise has increased and the more I drive it the louder it gets. Is the red Loctite stuff the only answer for this problem or is there something else? Lifter screws are very tight to turn until you screw them way down to their bottom for the adjustments. Johnson lifters"

Reply: "toss them in the trash and have the valves set the right way, valves stem ground till the right clearance is achived, ive had more trouble over the last 50 yrs with those worthless adjustables, no matter who makes them"

That's exactly the advice Alex received from his engine builders.

[Tony Smith]

Originally Posted by Tony Wheeler

Lynn, Tony, Darrin, can I ask why you chose adjustable lifters in the first place? I've never understood the logic on V8 flatheads, because you can't ACCESS them in service. They make some sense for in-line flatheads, where they equate to adjustable tappets on OHV motors, but even so they still come at the cost of greatly increased weight requiring substantially heavier valve springs.

I have used adjustable lifters made by Mike Davidson at Flatattack Racing. These are actually lighter than Ford factory solid lifters and far easier to adjust than Johnson or 9N lifters. The well known problem with Johnson lifters rotating out of adjustment is partly due to the small thread of the adjusting bolt (What is it? 5/16", 1/4"??) Mike eliminated that by going to 7/8" UNEF thread for the adjustment. I did drill the walls of the lifter bores to use a pin punch to hold the lifter while adjusting it. I used Manley stainless Chev valves (1.6" intake, 1.5" exhaust). Manley make these in a choice of lengths (std, +.100, -.100), but even by choosing the -.100 length, I couldn't use the standard Ford non-adjustable lifter as when these are used with non-Mushroom Head valves, the valve can actually punch through the thin head of the lifter (especially with heavier valve springs).

As for not being able to adjust lifters on the Ford V8 in service, well it can be done, just not with the engine RUNNING. It is probably best to set aside some time to do so, but by removing the Generator, the ball connections of the choke and throttle, and the fuel pipe into the fuel pump, it is then a simple job ( ) to take off the inlet manifold. I have a starter solenoid with a push button on top to enable the engine to be turned over with the starter. You can then either observe the valve train in motion (ie for sticking valves), or turn the crank to adjust particular valves in turn.

These pics are from a few years back when the valvetrain went in. I don't have a better pic of the Flatattack lifters, so I've blown up the portion of the pic.

[Tony Wheeler]

Originally Posted by Tony Smith

I have used adjustable lifters made by Mike Davidson

Nice lifters Tony. I'd certainly be a lot more comfortable with those.

Originally Posted by Tony Smith

I used Manley stainless Chev valves (1.6" intake, 1.5" exhaust).

Excellent choice, and likewise heavier valve springs (essential even without heavier lifters IMO). Very well thought out set up all round.

Originally Posted by Tony Smith

I couldn't use the standard Ford non-adjustable lifter as when these are used with non-Mushroom Head valves, the valve can actually punch through the thin head of the lifter (especially with heavier valve springs).

Just needs 8BA lifters Tony. They ran parallel stem valves. Mentioned in my previous post: "with 8BA lifters to suit the parallel stem valve". Mike D mentions here:

img049.jpg

Originally Posted by Tony Smith

it is then a simple job ( ) to take off the inlet manifold.

Yes, I've probably overstated the lack of access, particularly with the likely service interval involved.

Thanks for your thoughts and pics Tony, very instructive.