Morris Commercial Head Stud Removal.

[T Creighton]

Originally Posted by Jacques Reed

; going to either a 1/4" or 5/16" drill. Main thing is not to drill so much that there is only the remains of the stud left it the internal threads. Then you will have problems cleaning them out.
I did that once on another part with a broken stud and it was a disaster.
Cheers,

Oh dear! I have done that with 4 holes on the second choice block so I guess I have a disaster on my hands if I have to use that one.
The welding a nut on process is working well although each nut needs to be re heated again at least twice in most cases.
I am using a TIG torch that can hold the metal to almost melting so get good heat penetration.
On the so called good block at present it is 1 broken, 1 halfway out, 10 out clean and 3 to go.
Thanks everyone for the good ideas.
Cheers Terry

[Jacques Reed]

Hi Terry,

All may not be lost on the "B" block. The part I stuffed up was the exhaust manifold stud hole but that is subjected to a lot more heat than the head so the threads were practically welded into it over the years. Had to Heli coil it finally.

You may be able to get a few of the thread remains out of the block with a dental pick if they are not as badly siezed as my manifold stud threads were. You then may be able to get a tap started squarely to finish off the clearing of what little threads still remain in the tapped block.

Hope all goes well.

Cheers,

[T Creighton]

In case anyone is wondering as to the outcome of all of this I got my engine back a few days ago (over a year later) as a completely rebuilt short block assy.
New pistons, rings, liners, valves , guides etc and with the crankshaft/flywheel/clutch assy balanced. The pistons and rods were statically balanced.
In spite of me spending hours cleaning out and re-tapping the head stud holes the re- conditioner drilled out and helicoild the whole lot.
Nothing like doing the job properly and surprisingly not too expensive.(for the helicoils that is, I won't mention the cost of the rest of it.)
Warm regards to all.
Terry

[Tony Smith]

Awesome feeling?

[T Creighton]

Cheers for that Tony_big smiles all round.
Terry

[Mike K]

You must be pleased after the long wait. I took a Morris CS8 block to be decked and bored a few months ago, I made the mistake of telling the engine machinist "I'm not in a hurry" , I will be waiting til XMAS I think.

Interesting they helicoiled the stud threads, I think it's 12mm thread, the Morris head studs in the six cyl. CS8 are that size . 12mm threads come in three thread pitches, confusing ! metric fine is either 1.5 or 1.25 pitch.

That bracket made from flat bar , on the engine front where the pulley is on the 4 cyl. , I had one but didn't know it is a 4 cyl. part. I think I threw it out !

[Mike K]

Update: I successively removed all of the head studs in the Morris block.... around 7 years back.

I made a stud puller.. my own design. It grabs the stud low down minimizing twisting.

The trick is to heat the stud to a dull red just above the deck surface ... let it cool and apply some penetrant . Repeat at least twice. Say some prayers and go for it. A longish bar on the puller will help. Oxy Acc heat is a good fast intense heating process , you dont want to be using a little puny propane torch that will take forever to heat the stud. Heat up the stud not the block.

If the studs don't give way ... try the heat cycle again.... don't be in a rush. Try and 'feel' for the point where the stud will snap instead of coming loose , not easy to do.

As somebody pointed out..
the end of the stud may have rust and be swelled out....as you unscrew the stud it may damage the threads in the block..resulting in a oversized threads, this is a big potential problem and helicoils may be needed. We don't want loose studs.