2016 at the Hammond Barn

[Bob Carriere]

Hi Alex

I have 3 rear 2B1 bodies or maybe should be called cadavers......

I have my original cab 11 box and two from Cab 12.

Sadly all of them are badly rusted BUT between the 3 boxes I have one badly twisted tail gate and two sets of good side drop panels.

Only one cab 12 floor still has the original inside the box rectangular fenders.

Plans are to reverse engineer and built one new box. I have enough to use as patterns for a new fabrication. Mainly 14 and 16 gauge except for the floor.

I need to build a rotisserie first so I can swing the new box 180 degrees for fabrication.

I rough estimate is near a $1000 for the steel and maybe as much for the custom bending at a local fabricator... minimum charge $75...set up time then bending... might consider making parts for a second box once the set up time is paid for. Another possibility is buying my own 6 foot 12 gauge pan box brake but would need to build at least 3 boxes to break even. My own time and Mig welding not included.

Construction is fairly simple and most pieces needing bending is less than 5 feet long except for the head piece and tail gate. I would hope to be able to generate some pictures, sketches with measurements plus pit falls to avoid.

Plans are to safety the vehicle this Spring EVEN if I have to install a M101A trailer box temporarily or maybe one of the rusted box for a short while.

Grant is restoring a 20cwt trailer box and I may get some worth while experience with me as humble assistant.

Cheers

[Alex van de Wetering]

Bob,

Good to hear that you at least have some boxes as a base. Even cadavers are better than nothing, right?

There are a bunch of tutorials on making a DIY sheet metal brakes on youtube....I was just watching a few vids recently with a vision of maybe making a small sheet metal brake myself. Maybe something to think about for the barn as well? ....even though 6 foot is quite long.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FOYczH-yiWI
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yzc3NvkaC5Q
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=H3B9kJIfx2A

Alex

[Bob Carriere]

We acquired 2 brakes last year....one is 30 inches straight bar across the other more useful is a 36 inch pan box brake with multi fingers......both work well up to 16 gauge....... the cargo box 2B1 is a lot of 16 guage with some heavier pieces at 14.

I would be concerned making my own brake for 12 to 14 gauge sheet metal.

We have a smaller Chinese 40 in. shear-roller-vertical brake......good for 18 gauge at the most.....although we have cheated with 16 guage but preheated the sheet metal for a clean 90 degree bend.

On a 2B1 cargo box most of the pieces are less than 48 inches...... except the head board piece and the hat shaped section underneath that run the full width.

The tail gate can be done in two sections hidding the but joint under the large strap hinges.

So I have concluded that 72 inches at 12 gauge would do me just fine...... buit need to find the money to buy it.....or pay the local fabricator.

Will carefully watch the utube video next.

Cheers

[George McKenzie]

I made a tail gate for a box on a CMP 13 .Turned out like original Just takes time

[Bob Carriere]

Been madly involved with running the brand new wiring harness Phil W. did for me a few years back.

Did not realize how much of a nightmare it cvan be to snake the wires in pkace after the cab is almost all assembled...... but I am getting there.

Phil the harness is a delight to work with.... absolutely perfect.....THANKS YOU!!

Noticed in the process that my cab 11, which never went overseas, was never retro fitted with the front fenders marker lights nor the rear axle light..... that is now taken care of.... all my lights front and rear are working.... will be tackling the instrument cluster next...... what takes time is the hour of limbering yoga exercise before crawling under, over, etc.....

Would some one look at the wiring diagram in the MB-C2 and see if I am wrong.... the dotted lines for the second headlights ( yes mine has two) it seems that the dash instrument "Brigth Light" is shown as being wired ON when the low beam are actuated.....???

I have been using this diagram as my road map....... Phil made the wiring harness with EXACTLY the same color code as the manual...... it sure simplifies the process.....

I now have to factor in the new style ignition coil and the alternator...will keep the voltage regulator in place as a dummy so need to modify the diagram slightly. Also installing signal lights, for safety, and will be using an after market special dash switch similar to the fuel tank switch to manually turn on the flashers. Again Phil was thoughtful and included the extra wires for the flashers in the braided wiring loom.

Time to go out and get zapped!!

Cheers

[Alex van de Wetering]

Bob,

please post some pictures of the process.....well, not you hanging upside down in the engine bay, but rather the actual wiring . I am also preparing to start on the wiring and spoke to Phil to get some feedback, as I am really new to wiring. Just like you (and all other for that matter), I have to include some flashers, so the challenges are similar.

regards,

Alex

[Phil Waterman]

Hi Bob

Good to hear the harness is going well. Besides yoga is good for use. I would not be surprised to hear that gal's got this job on assembly line.

Now having put new harnesses in both Pattern 12 & 13 after the trucks were assembled I can conclusively say that's not how it was done on the assembly line. I'm sure the started when it was a rolling chassis.

First time I replaced the harness on my HUP years ago, it has fully assembled took the old one out copy it and then installed the copy. When the HUP was over hauled twenty years later put the harness in starting with the chassis then once the bare body was in place much easier.

Anybody working on a Pattern 13 do the harness without the nose on, lot easier to wire.

Also as I mentioned on my Web site if you are making a new harness make it several inches (6") longer than the original, particularly at the dash end.

Cheers Phil