Coupling assy

[rob love]

The problem with merely trying to space a washer in the mount is that the bolt really does not have much room for variation anyway. By the time you get the cotter pin through the hole for the castellated nut, you will still be at the same height no matter how many washers are put on top.

I compared the over all length of the new bolt with the original carrier bolt, and the original is a little longer, but not enough to make the difference. The original motor mounts were well squashed like a turtle on the freeway.

I was trying some different thicknesses today and I think I am going to go with a 5/16 plate underneath the motor mount bracket. I made up a pair of 1/4" plates, and it reduced the variation from the top to the bottom to about .006 thou. I think another 1/16 at the mounting bracket is going to make it perfect.

You are right about the difference between mounts on a car or truck, and the mounts on a carrier. The carrier is much more particular about the overall height. The male/female coupling gears are a reasonably tight fit, and everything in that area is quite beefed up and sturdy, so there is very little allowance for variation without causing undue wear or breakage. At least that is my take on it.

[rob love]

Well I tinkered some more today with the alignment issue, and using the feeler gauges between the coupler and the transmission, decided to go with a whopping 3/8" thick spacer plate under the front motor mount brackets. This actually takes me a touch high (I had .003" more clearance at the bottom of the coupling than the top) , which I expect to be able to correct by snugging up the motor mount bolts and extra turn or so.

I'll be keeping an eye on the aligment issue with other carriers I am going to work on, and see just how true they are. Time will, of course, tell if I am making the right decision with these plates.

[Lynn Eades]

Rob, that seems massive! I know you have said the rear plate looks ok, but here's a few thoughts;
Put a straight edge against the rear hull and check it. Then if it does't look perfect,tighten up the tie back rods, pulling the motor back square, into the coupling, and then crack off the bolts holding the brake backing plates to the axle to see if anything moves? (I hope you have the drums off)
A quarter inch up at the front will likely mess up the exhaust pipes,the crank handle alignment, and probably worst of all, the fan blades under the radiator header tank.
Maybe when the motor was pulled the diff rotated up? With the coupling tight and the front mounts out, will the weight of the motor move it down?
As I said all just thoughts that might help
The Australians cleverly put a rubber mount at the rear with a flexible coupling.

[Petr Brezina]

Sorry for hijacking this thread, but what is the overall height of the engine mount support (please see photo - Kevin's picture -thank you )?
Would be anyone so kind to measure it for me? Thank you in advance!

[Michael R.]

Originally Posted by Petr Brezina

Sorry for hijacking this thread, but what is the overall height of the engine mount support (please see photo - Kevin's picture -thank you )?
Would be anyone so kind to measure it for me? Thank you in advance!

You should be clear with 40mm. Depends on the thickness of the bracket you bend. You need to clear the inside isolator and still be able to get the wrench/spanner on the hex.. Watch which aftermarket engine mount kit you buy. Get the right diameter (1-1/8") and check assorted manufacturers for slightly different inserts. Look for the 78-6038 series. Some suppliers sell pairs about $20.00, others sell a single assembly at $16.00.

Speedway:
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Univer...-Kit,1199.html

Mac's:
http://www.macsautoparts.com/early_v...rd-375561.html

[Petr Brezina]

Thanks a lot Michael! Very helpful as always

[Lynn Eades]

Petr, Look for the correct truck mount, as michael R says. There are mounts and mounts and I believe some will collapse more than others right from the start. I have found the top hat steel mount, one carrier in New Zealand and one in Western Australia with steel packers underneath. These were both British built, and I think they were there from new, to fix a production error. Both lots of packers being cropped rather than cut from the same round edged stock steel.
I started to repeat what I have already stated further back in this thread, so will stop here.
I am not able to give a measurement, but will in the next 24 hours.