![]() |
|
#1
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
To Rob, Jordan, and Bob,
Thanks for all the great info and handy hints on preparation, storing, and cleanup of POR 15. Think I will go the disposable brush route as opposed to spraying as it is a moot point trying to get a perfect finish on an already pitted pieces of steel that is hidden from view anyway. The only purpose, in my case, is to make the tyres go on and off easier and prevent rusting inside the wheels. I don't really want to invest in a full painters hood either for a once off job and after reading the posts would not consider spraying it with anything less than that PPE. It's pretty nasty stuff along with the cleanup chemicals if not handled properly. I had tried the old painter's trick of wrapping the brush in plastic food wrap between the two test coats on the wheel. It doesn't work. An hour later the bristles were as stiff as a board. Luckily it was an old el cheapo brush, and so was the second. Cheers,
__________________
F15-A 1942 Battery Staff Jacques Reed |
#2
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
A word of caution.....
some foam or plastic cup or certain small food container will dissolve the cup before you finish painting the POR..... Similarly some black foam paint brush with melt in POR...... Jacques..... I hope you have read the thread on installing tires on CMP rims..... the POR will help greatly......I encourage you to make your own device to facilitate the installation...... the time it will save you will be worth your while. Keep us posted with pictures of you progress.... some of us can't read!!! A tip to save you eye glasses......smear you lens with your own body oil from your forehead.... it will look a bit blurry BUT the POR will not stick to the lens. did we say nasty stuff??? Bob
__________________
Bob Carriere....B.T.B C15a Cab 11 Hammond, Ontario Canada |
#3
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
Hi Bob,
The great tips just keep on coming! Many thanks. Yes, have been following the tyre thread with great interest. I am very lucky that I scored a set of 5 NOS Dunlop Trak Grips many years ago and later purchased a set of Simex T24s which I believe were ex-Singapore or Malaysian military. They were made from the Dunlop T24 moulds for British wheels. Needless to say, the original Dunlop's slipped on easily on just cleaned and primed rims using only rubber lubricant. No tools required. I decided in view of their rarity, not to use the Dunlops and keep them for display purposes only plus the Simex tyres were over 50 years newer and therefore I felt safer for road use. These will go on the POR 15 painted wheels. Measurements indicate they are the same bead profile and 5 degree angle as the Dunlops but I want to give myself every advantage of slipping them on, and more importantly, slipping them off the rims, should the need arise hence the POR 15. Cheers,
__________________
F15-A 1942 Battery Staff Jacques Reed |
#4
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
Only if you consider MEK, Xylene, and Toluene safe!
PPE absolutely essential. Cheers,
__________________
F15-A 1942 Battery Staff Jacques Reed |
#5
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
Of the 3, I consider the Xylene relatively safe. I do not like the other two.
|
#6
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
Don't want to get too far off topic of POR 15 but it is always good to know what is in the thinners and spray gun cleaning solvents we use.
As most of us know, it all about the exposure levels to these chemicals and the risk management of them. I find it interesting that Artline felt pens have "Xylene Free" printed on them. Is that because of some requirement to a perceived risk, or to tell those that would sniff them for a high that it is not worth the effort? Cheers,
__________________
F15-A 1942 Battery Staff Jacques Reed |
#7
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
MLU threads wander.......it's how we learn.
I looked up the health effects of xylene, since I do tend to use a fair bit of it between painting and cleanup. It does not collect in the body, and while over-exposure can be bad (so can too much chocolate) normal exposures will dissipate. I can't say the same for MEKA, which I consider very bad. The carb cleaner at work has MEKA as an ingredient. Cleans things up very well.....too well. |
#8
|
|||
|
|||
![]()
I worked briefly in a sheet metal shop and they were using MEK..... not for long...
according to safety manuals there are no barriers that one can wear to prevent the MEK from migrating into your skin.... all work rubber, nytril, latex gloves have a certain degree of porosity and the MEK goes through them.....in fact it is recommended NOT to wear protective gloves as it will keep the chemical in skin contact longer than bare hands were the MEK will evaporate faster. The gun wash I buy is handled accordingly....and by the way it will desolve 3/4 inch of hard varnish deposit in old CMP tanks. My preference for diluting OD flat paint is high test gasoline with no alcohol in it. We wander but it is all paint related. Cheers
__________________
Bob Carriere....B.T.B C15a Cab 11 Hammond, Ontario Canada |
![]() |
Thread Tools | |
Display Modes | |
|
|
![]() |
||||
Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
For Sale: For sale C15 Chassis and HUW C8A chassis | Alex van de Wetering | For Sale Or Wanted | 9 | 05-07-21 23:29 |
Light Green Paint, Olive Drab Paint, etc | Matthew Reid | Post-war Military Vehicles | 22 | 21-07-16 06:54 |
To paint or not to paint brake cylinders? that's the question | Alex van de Wetering | The Restoration Forum | 4 | 09-02-15 12:07 |
Ford M-H LP3A 1941 chassis = CMP Ford chassis | cliff | The Softskin Forum | 5 | 11-07-14 07:22 |
Which chassis? | David_Hayward (RIP) | The Softskin Forum | 9 | 19-09-04 15:39 |