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#1
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Yep, they look OK from here. The right side was usually the one that cracked where they had two holes directly above the stress point. It was more common that you would think. The extra welding at the bellcrank was very common, including attempts to weld the cast bracket to the steel plate.
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#2
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I just finished spraying the frame (3 coats). I chose to use a product called Chassis Saver. Ill splash a bit of OD on the frame after this stuff cures. I need to investigate the recommended time to cure before painting over the Chassis Saver.
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1953 M37 CDN 1953 M38A1 CDN 1967 M38A1 CDN2 |
#3
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Looking good Wayne! I've never heard of the product "Chassis Saver". I know of another product that works great for chassis which is POR15. I don't know how successful you would be getting paint to stick to it would be though as it's like a two part epoxy? What colour grey did you use on the motor, i like it!
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Peter Phillips 1952 M38Cdn 1953 M100Cdn 1951 PE-95K Gen Set MVPA Cdn Forces 1986-2006 |
#4
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Hi
Does Chassis Saver require a special over coat to paint over top of it or to under coat? One of the issues with Por15 is that you have to use their special TieCoat if you want to paint over it to change color. The comment about Por15 not sticking fresh new steel is very true, even if you have etched the steel, it may not stick. I've had problems where old steel with patch of paint the Por15 peeled off the clean smooth ares. For Por15 to stick you really need to ruff up the entire surface. Look forward to more info Cheers Phil
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Phil Waterman `41 C60L Pattern 12 `42 C60S Radio Pattern 13 `45 HUP http://canadianmilitarypattern.com/ New e-mail Philip@canadianmilitarypattern.com |
#5
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I specifically avoided using POR15 because of all the sensitivities around its handling, preparation and application. I understand it is a great product when used correctly, but I didn't really want the risk of screwing it up.
When I purchased the Chassis Saver, the guy at the shop told me that I could apply my enamel paint directly over CS, once the CS has cured (I found out the curing time is 7 days). My due diligence may have been a bit light however, as I didn't really look in to the procedures for painting over the CS, beyond the conversation with the guy in the shop. I just sent a technical request related to this directly to CS, and I will post their response when I hear back from them. Fingers crossed...
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1953 M37 CDN 1953 M38A1 CDN 1967 M38A1 CDN2 Last edited by Wayne Hingley; 22-02-16 at 15:00. |
#6
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Through my local auto body supply store (who called the Chassis Saver rep while I was there), we found out that CS does not make a primer or coating to allow paint to adhere as an over-coat.
Paint will not bond to CS, and will peal off very easily. So... this changes my plans. While I really like the result achieved with CS, I do not want a black frame. Im considering a few different options, all of which include some sandblasting, epoxy primer & epoxy paint. More to follow soon.
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1953 M37 CDN 1953 M38A1 CDN 1967 M38A1 CDN2 |
#7
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That's a bummer, Wayne, it looks good! I bet that CS will be a pain to sandblast off. Wonder what other alternatives are out there if CS and POR15 have their own inherent issues? What type of grey paint did you use on the engine?
__________________
Peter Phillips 1952 M38Cdn 1953 M100Cdn 1951 PE-95K Gen Set MVPA Cdn Forces 1986-2006 |
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