Removing CMP tires from rusted &*^%%* rims..

[Grant Bowker]

We only applied a little penetrant as I was pretty well convinced that we would have had to almost drench the tire to get a useful amount between the tire and the rim. As well, if we had been trying to keep the tire for re-use I would have been reluctant to apply a mixture of oil and solvent (penetrating oil) to the rubber.
Perhaps soapy water would work to help the bead breaker slide between tire and rim and then more to see whether it would work its way between tire and rim? Some kind of lubricant would certainly have been nice to help slide the tire over the rim (probably best if applied from inside the tire - possible on CMP rims but harder on one piece rims).

[rob love]

Here is the similar tool but air powered. Much heavier but it saves all the wrenching. Because the shop I work in is smaller, I am able to get by with this as opposed to a larger machine like the Coats5000HIT.

Mike C and Mr Hupp had a demonstration of it last sdummer when they were by the museum.

The tool shown (Branick TTR) does show up as surplus from time to time. I have one at home myself which I picked up for $75 from my favorite surplus yard. It works well on the CMP rims and on most of the 20 inch rims, although the offset on the Honest John 5 ton rims does not allow this tool to clamp on.

[Hanno Spoelstra]

Great write-up Bob!

Here in Europe quite a few people have bought this pneumatically operated ex-German Army unit which reportedly works wonders on stubborn tyres as well.

tyre-shifter (1).jpg

[Bob Carriere]

Very nice set up with the flexibility to work on various size/type of rims.

No doubt faster than a manual set up.

Cheers

[Phil Waterman]

Hi All

With these different designs it would be interesting to measure or calculate the forces being applied to push the bead off.

Cheers Phil

[Bob Carriere]

We have finally found a way to exceed the design parameter of the tool......

....so before putting money down stay tuned for details....

we have tried the tool on the worst rusted-frozen rim we had and bent the claw and pin that holds the tool in place but just brute torque with a 16 in hand ratchet.....

I have taken pictures which I will share with the US distributor to see what they recommend....
....and are in the process of designing a stronger claw made of wood for a machinist to reproduce in T1 steel.... thicker cross section to avoid bending.

Stay tuned we have not given up yet!!

Bob C

[Jacques Reed]

No doubt it has been covered before on MLU, but if not, and you intend to scrap the tyres anyway, I have found it easier to cut the tyre off. Usually the tubes and rust bands aren't worth using again as the bands gets imbedded with heavy scale along with the tube where it comes through the wheel so destroying them in the process is no great loss.

I can get a tyre off in 15 minutes using just an electric drill, sabre saw, hacksaw blade holder, and a cold chisel and hammer.

Drill 2 holes with a 3/8" diameter drill near the bead on opposites sides of the tyre. cut out a wedge with the sabre saw to give you room to work, cut through the bead as much as you can up to the wires using the hacksaw blade holder, then cut through the wires in the bead with the hammer and chisel. Even before the last wires are cut the wheel often comes free.

Of course if you are fitting/removing good tyres the need for good hydraulic or powered tools is essential.

Cheers,