How To: Installing 9:00-16 tires on CMP wheels

[Bob Carriere]

Once this is over coudl someone show me how to insert pictures with text so I do not have to use the edit posrtion to add the captions...

Pic 12 Shows the bottom of the rim with the cross sitting inside.... roughly lined up with the wheel holes.
Pic 13 Flipped over the cross is now resting on a scrap piece of wood roughly 7x7 square... it keeps the bottom cross held against the rim and makes it easier to start the bolts.....
Pic 14 shows the upper cross overlapping the rim's edge.
Pic 15 & 16 shows the NOS Michelin tire...... rim is clean ....NO rubber has been removed and no magic dust used to facilitate installation.
Tire was removed from a STEYR rim...... acquired fullly installed from Bombardier who were working on a reverse engineering projecy that went defunct..... all 5 wheel/rims were acquired at a very modest price. Theystill have the rubber teats from the molding and I assumed not driven on except to rool into the plant.

Rims were cut with a 4 in. grinder to make sure the bead would not be damaged during removal.

[Bob Carriere]

Now for the dry run.....

Pic 17- Tire is just barely balanced on the bottom half of the rim. Actually had a tendency to iether slip on one side or the other.
Pic 18 Looking at the isnde of this dry mount....... the side further form the camera was slightly lower than the front side..... that is where the tool comes handy in leveling this difference.
Pic 19 We have installed the top cross inside the rim....... a little tricky as the side walls were stiff and the push block had to be squeezed in. Two bolts are installed for this dry installation/illustration.

Pic 20 & 21 shows how the push blocks are resting on the bead. Not even at this stage but when we do the actual installation the high side would be srewed down first then alternate to keep the cross even.

Now we move on to the actual SNOTHY installation.

[Bob Carriere]

The fun part.

The first few tires we installed we used just brute force then a truck tire dealer sold me a left over tire lubricating compound for 5 bucks... best money ever spent and we still have enough for x number of tires as you need very little.

For this exercise I really spead it on thick so it could be visible. You need a pair of disposable rubber gloves and you just scoop it up in your hand and smear it generously on the tire bead and the rim bottom half.

now for the Pics..

Pic 22& 23 the Snoth bucket..... we had to warm it up by the furnace so it would flow. It is a vegetable based thick goo.... we have about 3 inches left or 5 years worth. No smell can't tell you what it tastes like but Grant was forever threathening me to wipe his hand on my face as I had use a liberal amount.
Pic 24 snoth applied.......
Pic 25 & 26 Starting to screw down the thread rods until you start getting a contact between nut/washer/upper cross. The you habe to go slowly to make sure the tire bead slips evenly on all four side....

[Bob Carriere]

Just hate it when I get disconnected..... web seems to be acting strange and slow tonite..... may be the wires are toooo cold.

Pic 27 / 28/ 29.. Threaded rods are now going downin a criss cross pattern making sure the bead is being pushed onto the rim evenly. some of the snoth is visible being squeezed out...... it is recommended for use on flaps and tubes as well.
Pic 3- and 31... threaded rods are not fully screws down against the rim. The tire is now firmly in place at least two inches down or about mid point onthe bottom half of the rim. We used an impact pun but a wrench or ratchet would do just as well.... no great torque needs with the rods lubricated and the tire snoth.

In retrospect the pcuh blocks could have been made longer to puch down further but it becomes a bitch to remove and harder to insert at the start with increase height. The width of the 2 in. block seems to be a happy compromise.

[Bob Carriere]

The work is almost half done....
Pic 32 Time to remove the larger inner cross. We use section of 2x4 to hold the side wall which we pried open.... don't worry the tire will not ride up in the rim that easily.
Pic 33 Time to insert the tube.... making sure to align the tube stem with the rim notch. Blocks have to be romved and reisntalled in turn as you work the tube inside.
Pic 34 The tube had been inflated before inserting to work out the fold/creases due to storage..... it was also warmed up in the balst of warm air form Lucifer. Same was done with the new flap. Most of the iar was removed from the tube and carefully pushed by hand inside the tire cavity.
Pic 35 The new flap is now carefully inserted starting with the tube stem first....... tube and flap can be easily moved to realign if necessary. Excess snoth does help in the movements.
Pic 36 Flap in full bloom....... bottom half has been inserted now the top half needs to be squeezed inside. Keeping about 2 or 3 ppounds of air jsuy enough to keep the tube rounded help a great deal and hold the flap in place.

Now more than 3/4 done.

[Bob Carriere]

Now for the top half....

Pic 37.... That is my hand smearing some "snoth" on the top half of the tire bead in preparation for the top half of the rim to be dropped on the tire.
Pic 38 Top half of rim is in place and with a little pushing by hand the two longer tire studs are just protruding enough to install the two nuts.
NOTE all nuts and studs had been cleaned with a die&tap and the thread given a wallup of antiseize compound.
Pic 39 we hand tighened the two longer studs/nuts and squeezed the side wall just enough to catch another 2 nuts.
Pic 40.... home stretch...... criss crossed tightened all nuts until the rims halves are totally in contact with one another.
Pic 40 tire bead has not yet fully creeped up to the top rim. tire only has about 3 pounds of pressure at tis point.
DO NOT FORGET...... The bottom half of the tire is far from being seated at this point so watch our fingers.

[Bob Carriere]

Now the pressure is building up.....

Pic 41 We slowly inflated the tire and at 16 pounds the top was fully seated.

Remember the bottom is not done yet so resist the temptation to flip the tire by hand and get caught...
The top really moved very slowly. As the pressure inscres you can hear the tub/flat/ beads creak a little.
At 24 pounds the bottom half slowly popped in place...... continued to 40 pounds.

That's it!!!!!

Thanks to my able assistant who did most of the work and got most of the extra snoth on hishands whiel I manned the camera.

Now we have 4 more to do. The biggest job is cutting the rims to remove the tires.

Overall that little tool has installed nearly 20 tires( bar thread to 10:50 chevron tires)..... never had to trim the tire bead or machine the rim...... and NO magic dust was used in this project.

I have not installed 20 inch tires but would expect that all that is needed is to build a larger cross for the 20 in. tire.

The most significant difference for us was the discovery of the "industrial" snot for the tires..... if we ever run out I would gladly pay full price for a bucket of that stuff.

Hoping this will be helpful for current and future MLU members.

All comments and questions for details are welcomed.

Grant if something is missing in the text please feel free to jump in.

Amendment: from David Herbert on tube inflation
....Inflate the tube to full round before inserting into the tire carcass then allow to deflate while re-inserting the valve to retain "some" air inside. Having the tube valve removed greatly speeds up this simple operation.

Once the tube is inserted we add some air and manually spin adjust the tube stem with the indentation of the rim..... leftover of the "snoth" greatly facilitates moving the tube.

We then deflate the tube, but not totally, to allow installation of the flap.

Then do the final reinflation... in slow stages..... listening for the creaking of the tube/flap/tire bead as everything falls in place.

I fully agree with David and would recommend a full deflation and re-inflation of the tire to minimize the chances of any parts being out of place.

[Hanno Spoelstra]

Bob,

Thanks for sharing your experience, most interesting so I split it off the Hammond thread to its own thread.

Originally Posted by Bob Carriere

Once this is over coudl someone show me how to insert pictures with text so I do not have to use the edit posrtion to add the captions...

See the posting images thread.

H.

[Robert Bergeron]

Fantastique Bob. You have solved a long standing problem for all of us !

[rob love]

Once caution I woudl add is that if you end up nicking or cutting the bead, the tire can self destruct during inflation or operation.

I was recently repairing tires on a limber and gun which had previously been done by the local tire company without skiving. On filling, it appeared that one tire would not seat it's bead. After tear down, the cut in the bead was obvious and I had to scrap what otherwise was a 98% tread non-directional tire.

Personally I will continue to skive the tires slightly. I used to force the tires onto the rims using the Coats 5000 tire machine. Works great until you need to get the tire off for a flat.

[Bob Carriere]

Not a bad idea of doing a seperate thread as it maybe easier to find in a search.

On the Stovebolt engine forum they take the best tips, techniques,etc and have them reviewed by a team of moderator and if approved the "content' is copied/entered in a "tech tip' Section or a "how to" section which stands by its own. Might be a worth while consideration for MLU.

Thanks for all your help.

Bob C

[Hanno Spoelstra]

Originally Posted by Bob Carriere

Not a bad idea of doing a seperate thread as it maybe easier to find in a search.

On the Stovebolt engine forum they take the best tips, techniques,etc and have them reviewed by a team of moderator and if approved the "content' is copied/entered in a "tech tip' Section or a "how to" section which stands by its own. Might be a worth while consideration for MLU.

Thanks for all your help.

Bob,

That's basically what we are doing by moving threads into the Restoration Forum.

But, I would welcome "content" moderators - who wants to volunteer?

And oh, I could do with a few extra regular moderators as well. These two tasks could be combined perfectly.

Thanks,
Hanno

[colin jones]

That looks great Bob and a nice simple idea. Again it shows with a little combined effort and idea the most difficult job becomes not so hard at all.
Fantastic, I will remember this system should I ever come across this job.