Vc 2047 lp2

[colin jones]

I used some solid rod, machined it to shape, cut to length, cut at 45deg, welded back to make 90deg then welded the bits all together. I'm going to use LEDs so I don't have any voltage issues and Red and Blue Perspex. I know it's not the norm but these are pretty hard to find.

[Bob Carriere]

..... it would be a delight just to watch you do all those parts.

A few questions if you please.

On pressing the end caps for the fuel tanks ... how much tonnage did you use or required...? considering doing end caps for CMP tanks which are of much lighter gauge...approx 18 gauge and would use an hydraulic press of 20 or 30 tons.

Did you intall baffles in your tanks.

How did you weld the end seams...... mig or tig or even gas??
did you test you welds for leaks or will you be relying on using a tank sealer solution...?

You are an inspiration.

Thanks

Bob C

[colin jones]

Hi Bob, it wouldn't think you need any more than 20-30 ton to press out CMP tanks. To get an even pressing it all relies on the top press die and by that I mean getting an even distribution of power to all paints to stop deflection. I assume you are using a garage press style which is a single point of power. You could simply use very thick steel or thinner and fabricate with lots of bracing (Gussets) That's the method I used. The base of my top one is 10mm thick and have put a number of triangle gussets around. I never got any deflection at all and I was pressing 16g If you have access to a press brake, that would be even better and mine is only a 40tonner.
I never put baffles in my tanks as they are well supported in a carrier unlike a truck hanging on the side.
I mig welded the ends in doing vertical downs where possible but yours being thinner would probably be better to Tig them.
I tested mine with an air fitting in the fuel pickup point with about 60psi and did the old soapy water which shows up the smallest of leaks. You could use some sealant as well.
Good luck and post photos.
Colin.

[Euan McDonald]

Hi Colin, great to see you over the cruise and getting on with shed time.
I went down the track of making lamp body's as well and had a die machined then took it to a metal spinner and had s few spun. I contemplate having them done in stainless as well. Matt is also making some and came up with a brass fitting from Bunnings for the rear.
Keep up the good work

[Wayne Hingley]

Very nice workmanship Colin! You have talent and its great to see you taking on these challenges. Bob is correct... you are an inspiration. Keep it up.

[Bob Carriere]

Looking back at the stamping die you made..... should be able to replicate.

The CMP fuel tank is very light material and may be easier to form...... baffles would be necessary. Based on the many rusted tanks we have worked on the baffles are installed first after the outside skin has been pinched and welded shut.... baffles are then inserted and welded by a long arm spot welder. The reserve baffle is sealed tight on all 3 sides using a rolling wheel welder simialr to what they weld the end caps with. Can't afford all the specialized machinery but our time is free and the challenge worthwhile. We may just spot weld some baffles and then weld the end plugs ...... the soapy test is certaily worthwhile but would be safer with a liquid sealer for the finish process.

May try some scaled down smaller pressing over the Winter months for practical experience....... maybe tackle the small indent for the bottom drain plugs.

Cheers

Cheers

[Robert Bergeron]

Great work !

An inspiration.