Ford Blitz Restoration/Rebuild

[Bob Carriere]

I know it has been covered before on MLU but no arm in repeating.

Our experience at the barn has been positive.

First the wheel inside portion has to be very clean by sand blasting and painted with a shinny oil based paint.... we use black POR 15.

We bought half a 5 gal. bucket of lubricating snoot..... it is a lubricant used by large truck tire shop which we lather one with rubber glove.

We have built a home made device to press on the tire on the bottom half of the rim. I should do a new series of pictures on how we use it...... we do have 4 tires to install over the next few weeks.

My device is basically a steeltube cross that bolts under the bottom half and presses the bottom bead over the rim..... just far enough to install the tube and flap and then press down the top half of the tire. The top half of the rim fits easily and using the two long studs start pulling the rims sections together. we use a small amount of air to insure the flap/tube do not pinch themselves.

The first design use regular 5/8 threaded bars but the thread got worn very easily. Replaced with ore expensive grade 8 threaded bar and "never sieze" grease on the thread. Even using the impact wrench works fine.

On the HUP 16" rims the walls of the rim are parallel and not tapered like a CMP rim and tires almost just drop on.

I have seen others shaving the bead down to the steel cable beads but I shudder at the long term results.

There has not been one 16 tire that we could not install

Removal is done with a chain saw and a angle grinder...... very carefully and no damage to the rims. The run flats tire casing do leave a generous amount of black rubber chips on the ground.

Persist and don't give up yet.

Maybe I can try doing a sketch/cross section of the tool we built so any one can replicate the process.

On the manufacturers difference..... we never measured the inside bead to bead but I can tell you that between Good Year....Firestone and Mohawk 9x16 tires that once installed we found a height diferences of over 1 1/2 inch. So the caution in the CMP manuals to match tire diameter is a real issue.

Cheers

[Private_collector]

Hi Bob,

I for one, would like to learn your techniques.

Regardless of my recent tyre fitting failures, all is well with the world, at least for 5 weeks. Our Son arrived home today. He has bigger muscles each time I see him. Wish we got to see him more, but 5 weeks over Christmas will do just fine.

[Private_collector]

I was dismantling a surplus Ford cab yesterday, and found something curious. I'm far from experienced with these vehicles overall, but I have pulled apart 4 or 5 cabs at least. When removing the frame that holds the two window apertures, I found that there is a shaped solid steel block that slides up into each side of the window panel frame, and allows additional strength to the three attachment bolts that hold the panel to cab frame. I had my hands full yesterday, but will photograph the part/s I'm talking and post them if anyone is interested.

You will note I mention three bolts holding window frame to cab. Normally one of these bolts has shared duty of being one of the door hinge bolt locations, but not in this case. This cab is the one that takes the canvas covered doors, and there are NO hinges at all. The window frame isn't even one of the parts I was wanting to use. My motivation yesterday was to get the lower rear cab panel off for thorough inspection followed by sandblasting. Unfortunately (and I seem to be including that word in many posts!), that rear panel is in worse shape than I thought. I knew the steel sheeting was badly dented and has perforation corrosion in a number of places behind the lower angle iron section. I knew I wanted whomever gets the job of replacing the sheeting to avoid disturbing the door latching brackets. What I certainly did NOT know, is that the bottom piece of angle is so badly corroded that it has disappeared entirely in one area. Also, two of the diagonal bracing straps are rotten at bottom where they join the angle iron. Repairing the angle iron frame will be a big job. I do have a spare bit for that, but don't have any spares of the diagonal bracing straps. I feel another four-part trilogy coming on!

The main cab frame section seems to look OK, although I have no doubt all of the >65 bolts holding floor to frame will be reluctant to come away without some form or physical protest. This protest usually takes the form of bolt snapping, and for whatever reason, those bolts are commonly the ones that are very hardest to get to, for removing the caged nut!

With Bryce currently home, I'm only putting in token effort on truck, and that is timed for when Bryce is in town at the gym or catching up with old friends. All other times, spending time with him is most important thing. Bryce has said he will be happy to help me get the crank shaft into the flathead engine while he is here, and that will get done when he has free time.

One of the indoor jobs I have been working on, is to compile a list of stencil fonts and print them as a visual reference for selection in the future. I wanted something more than just a boring piece of board or card with some vinyl stuck to it....
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so I bought a thin sheet of perspex and stuck as many as would fit. Stencil fonts were stuck onto one side, and the rear side sprayed in my truck green. If you REALLY wanted to be tricky, the stencils could have been cut in mirror image and applied to the side that would get sprayed later, giving a very nice effect. I didn't dare try that, because I wasn't sure how the paint would stick, and didntr wish to see the paint react with the vinyl material. Krylon is one of the better spray packs to use, because it actually melts into the perspex (or other plastic/s) and fuses together. I don't have any Krylon yet. Another good effect would have been to apply stencils, spray entire steet (same side), then VERY CAREFULLY remove all the vinyl lettering etc.. This gives freedom to then spray further color onto the perspex, and when viewed from the other side, it looks absolutely faultless. Once again, that wasn't something I wanted to do at this time, but have made many high quality signs for business and advertising, when I played around with vinyl signage in early 1990s. Go a step further, using a translucent set of spray colors, and you have yourself a simle to make light-box sign.
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In future there will be more perspex sheets, to demonstrate some of the different effects that can be had. The RAEME logo and Winston Churchill portrait were cut from gloss white vinyl, and then the applicable white was applied onto flat black vinyl. The RAEME example shows white background retained, and logo becomes inverse. This is what you would want to do, if using the vinyl as a stencil mask. Obviously the background color would be applied (and let dry for 24hrs, or more) to the vehicle surface prior. Mr Churchills' portrait shares same Weeding of the white vinyl, but in this case the portrait lost it's impact entirely if the white 'positive' areas of vinyl would have been used instead. I printed two scenarios for Mr C. One as white image, with the only detail being the smaller areas of white only, and the second scenario as shown. When cut and displayed in the positive, where the subject would have been white on background of whatever..., my Wife didn't recognise who the subject was! When done the second way, he was immediately known. Funny how color can determine how we see something. E.g: Dazzle camo of ships. The second photo above, isn't very clear in subject, but if you look closely, you can see a small Invasion Star on left, without background color, and the other piece is one of my 9th Division identification signs. This one DOES have the flat black background. In this form, its a bit of micky mouse. I would expect all restorers would prefer to spray the black square onto the vehicle surface, then apply a stencil weeded vinyl mask over that, for spraying of the second color through. The stencil would then be removed entirely, leaving only two painted colors on the vehicle. No plastic retained at all!
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This is my next night time project, to copy severar types of WWII minefield signs. In coming days I will work on assessing the portion of stencil Board that was kindly sent for evaluation. There is absolutely no doubt that that board will make excellent single use stencils, but I want to attempt turning this material into Oilboard stock, so it can be used over and over again. Im still comparing techniques that will give best result, but it is looking likely I will be applying a form of linseed oil to the board, in anywhere from one to three coats. Once fully 'blotted and dried' I think there is a reasonable chance of making oilboard stencils which are far cheaper that purchasing commercially available stock.

[Private_collector]

The canvas door cab is disassembled. In the spirit of previous work of similar nature, it was painful. Mostly physically. I lost count of the exact number of caged nuts I bashed away (took all of them off), but it is more than ten...in total. Right about now I'm REALLY wishing I had kept note of where I purchased the replacement countersunk flat head bolts I bought for the cab of green truck. I'm confident I would have mentioned that in a post a long time ago, in a galaxy.....
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May be some perforation to wheel arches, but am not sure until blasted. The rest of the frame is OK. Lower rear panel is very badly corroded in the angle piece and panel sheeting.
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Also the cross bracings are affected, with two needing either repair or replacement.
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One curious thing with this specific cab, is that EVERYTHING had anti-squeak pads on. Not just the nose and rear panels, but all the floor panels, along every place where they touch the cab frame. Some of the anti-squeak was thicker than others too.

I am needing to get my hands on one or two of the rear cab cross braces. If anyone has a spare one / two of these they are willing to sell, I would be very pleased to purchase, so I can continue to rebuild this rear panel.

Many thanks,

[Private_collector]

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This is one of the solid steel pieces that prevents crushing of window frame when attachment bolts are tightened. I have disassembled a few cabs, but these are the only ones I've seen so far. Maybe the frame is Chev, and I have thus far worked on Ford???? The check plate floor sure suggests Ford. Maybe this is the only truly original and previously untouched cab I have disassembled??? I don't really think this is so either.
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I had forgotten how heavy these damn floor panels are, but am now reacquainted. Won't have a chance to take them for blasting until mid or late next week. Trailer still has nice green wheels in it. A favorable phone call on Monday, may mean they get new tyres soon. If not, I'll mothball those for another day.
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With my last bit of day, I made and attached the upper shield panel for my gun. My chunk of rope, and $20 shovel from bunnings don't look too bad, but shovel could get replaced if better fitting one surfaces. Doing the plating of rope ends to take the metal thimbles was not easy.

Next gun related task is to finish the brackets to hold sight cases and other things onto the shield. That's gonna mean a whole lot of cutting, because the templates have all been transferred to one piece of steel plate (the cheapskate in me, returns) and I have filled the entire sheet in ackward to cut shapes! Save $10 in metal, spend $20 in cutting disks.

[David Dunlop]

Tony, your gun shield project is looking awesome! Nice work!

With regards to the stiffeners you found in the Blitz windscreen frame, could these be another 'country of origin' modification implemented in Australian production, similar to the change in outline from rhomboid to rectangular found in the cowl side vent doors?

David

[Private_collector]

Hi David, that sure is a possibility. To be honest, it has me stumped. I really want to get to the bottom of WHY these things were there. They certainly are a damn good idea, and there won't be any crushing of the window frame post, that's for sure.

Wow, I didn't know that was reason for the different shaped air vents. I always thought it was a Chev VS Ford thing. Would you believe I used the vent on my truck for the first time, just a couple of days ago. It was real hot, and I thought the flow of fresh air might make things a little cooler. You know, it really didn't! I'm sorry to say I couldn't even notice a difference. Opening up the window, on the other hand, made a hell of a difference. Glad I cut my hair recently!

[Jacques Reed]

Originally Posted by Private_collector

Attachment 78271
I had forgotten how heavy these damn floor panels are, but am now reacquainted. Won't have a chance to take them for blasting until mid or late next week. .

Hi Tony,

Just looking at your rear floor plate it looks to be a F15A with the slot for the single range xfer case lever on the right side of of the fuel tank changeover valve hole.

If you are putting it on a chassis with a dual range xfer case you would need a cutout on the plate for the dual range lever on the left side of the fuel tank changeover valve hole (see attached)

I searched for years to find the correct unmolested F15A rear plate so it would be a shame to cut yours if it is not correct for your truck. Plenty of the rear plates around with the hole for the dual range xfer case though. Sorry though I sold the ones in the picture otherwise you could have it.

A Merry Xmas and a Happy New year to you and your family and look forward to the continuing interesting posts.


Cheers,

[Private_collector]

Thanks, Jacques. I hear you, regarding the floorplates. Wasn't aware of any differences, and still wouldn't be if you had not mentioned it. Unfortunately the rear plate has had two nasty big brackets welded on, which I assume is not original. I'm sure I can massage them off, if need be. I tackled a job today that I have been dreading. I thoruoghly cleaned out the workshop, to the extent that there is now clear floor everywhere, propper storage space for the gun shield, permanent location for my hydraulic press (which I bought around 9mths ago), and most importantly.....I can now contemplate rolling the chassis outside for a good blowing down with the air hose and soft brush. Spring cleaning came late this year, and I may not have even done it today, except that I had a gentleman passing by who spotted the daily driver CMP and asked if he could have a look. He was with his Son (I think it was his Son) and they were heading into town. They knew straight away that it was a 13 cab type, and as it was obvious they were 'in the know', I was pleased to speak with them and show them around. The workshop was in a disgusting state, and I was genuinely embarrassed I had let it go so badly. After they left, I thought RIGHT, that's enough of this! Spent all day, but got it all spic & span again. Not taken any photpgraphy. I finished after 1900hrs. Unsure yet if Bryce wants to go to the beach tomorrow, but if he doesn't want to go out, we will line up the grey truck, extend the front winch cable, and pull the restoration chassis out into the sunshine for the first time EVER since it was assembled. Bloody mud wasps have had high jinx building their ghastly little homes, but I think I have now removed all of them.

I hope all you chaps have had enjoyable Christmases. Here, as with last year, we didn't get snow. This has been the case for some years now. In fact, probably been snow free since the last ice-age, 10,000yrs or more ago. In place of snow, we got 35 degree (Celsius) heat. I would have preferred snow, really.

At my age, Christmas doesn't really involve much in the way of gifts.....apparently! Mrs B and I did exchange gifts x1 each, that we had colluded on. We both got new watches. Bryce got a wifi device from us. There is no internet available on his base, so we thought this may be of benefit to him, and also we might get the occasional email or two. He also received a good quality torque wrench, which I had engraved with his name, rank, and service number. More about engraving in a moment. Bryce bought me a VERY special gift which I will always cherish.
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This is my Christmas present from Bryce, a bottle of Port (well I think it is port!) that commemorates "100 years of RAEME". Although this isn't exactly the case, I think we all understand it refers to all the names that the Australian Army have called their Engineers in last century. RAEME, by that name, only came into being after WWII. Hopefully you can read the writing on the bottle. It explains this better than I. I have no intention of opening the bottle, unless a very specific circumstance arises. I pray that event does not occur, and the bottle will remain untouched!

The grey truck didn't have a bad Christmas either. I have bought it a complete set of corner lights and a new pair of side mirrors. I'll put those on when I get a chance, with mirrors the more urgent need. One of the old ones is deteriorating rather badly, thanks to the Queensland sun. The plastic is starting to crumble on drivers side, and I fear the glass may fall out if it progresses much further.

The local company I used to do the engraving on Bryces torque wrench (laser etching, actually) are able to work from a range of suitable formats, and it got me thinking about doing a test to reproduce the generally illusive CMP shift pattern plates etc.. If anyone has either a good quality photo of any shift plates OR a black and white scan/image of such plates, I would be very interested to see them. I will then go about seeing what can be done to make an acceptable replication onto aluminium.

On another topic. Does anyone have first hand experience with installing the Ford flathead engine and gearbox WITHOUT removing the cab????? I would very much like to get my cab back onto the chassis without further delay. The only thing preventing me is of course the unfinished engine rebuild. If it can be put in carefully, with success, it will get me some more workshop space that I intend to use for my sewing machine. It is currently in the other shed, and in the way there! No doubt the nose panel would need to come back off, but that's quite acceptable and not a real big job. If the cab was back on, I can also start installing wiring etc... Any thoughts, folks?

I'll post a couple of photos once I drag the chassis into the sunshine.

[Grant Bowker]

Originally Posted by Private_collector

Hi Bob,

I for one, would like to learn your techniques.

Bob has posted a series of photos with description at:
http://www.mapleleafup.net/forums/sh...ad.php?t=25041 starting with post 4 yesterday.

[Private_collector]

Well tie me to an ants nest, and smear my ears with jam! While pottering in the workshop yesterday, I noticed that the nose/front panel on my green truck does actually have the removable upper cross piece. Cool!

Grant,

Thanks. I'm reading through that tyre fitting info now.

[Private_collector]

On Wednesday afternoon I was honoured to have a visit from Mike Cecil. It was excellent to get to meet him in person, and we were able to spend an all too brief couple of hours or so talking and looking over my truck. I had always indicated that the chassis on my restoration vehicle had been shortened by an owner that preceded the guy I bought the wreck from. That is what was told by the seller. Curious, it always struck me, the 'shortened' length was 115" WB, which is precise length of the uncommon tractor CMP that couples with a large trailer. If you refer back to post #55, you will see a reasonable view of the chassis rear, showing a butchered section at very back of both rails. That part of the chassis has obviously been modified. You will also note the heavy-duty springs on rear axle. The H-D bump stops were taken off chassis by previous owner.

While looking over the vehicle, Mike asked about the chassis number. I have checked every inch of the chassis previously, and had to reply 'there isn't one'. Attention then turned to the workmanship (or possibly lack of it) of the shortening. Both Mike and I found no evidence of any modification to the chassis length. No join, no non standard welding, nothing. That is very curious. Mike enquired about what sort of rear body I was contemplating. I'm still not 100% sure, but had given thought to a turntable, based on the 115" wheelbase it is now. In the absence of any visible mods, is it possible the chassis may actually BE one of those tractors???

Mike felt that the rear section of a tractor chassis (behind the spring mount) wouldn't be as long as mine, in order to achieve maximum clearance between tractor chassis and trailer. Now look back to post #55 again. See the boxed-in bodge at back of the rails? Naturally I removed these and had proper profile replacements of same length welded in it's place. In reviewing some old photos, I can now see that badly made box section was in reality an additional portion of length to the rails. The chassis rear used to be considerably shorter. Perhaps too short for some farmer or house restumper, BUT maybe the right 'shortness' for trailer tractor use???

I don't know if the cab is the original for this vehicle, I don't know what other parts have been added or subtracted, except that in removing the rear heavy-duty spring sets I may have contributed to the departure from original specs!

Any thoughts? Do you have any way that I can tell if this chassis was originally 115"?

[Hanno Spoelstra]

Originally Posted by Private_collector

Curious, it always struck me, the 'shortened' length was 115" WB, which is precise length of the uncommon tractor CMP that couples with a large trailer. If you refer back to post #55, you will see a reasonable view of the chassis rear, showing a butchered section at very back of both rails. That part of the chassis has obviously been modified. You will also note the heavy-duty springs on rear axle. The H-D bump stops were taken off chassis by previous owner.

Quoted here for easier access:

Originally Posted by Private_collector

Today I made the last trip to my Ford chassis, in readyness for the trip home via tilt-tray, later in the week. Former owner got it to front of his property, and the rope he had used to 'hold' rear axle on reportedly snapped in transit, so he re-roped the axle.

I'm not quite as brave ??? as he is, so I removed rope and chained all together. It only has to last one load/unload on the truck transporting it home, so I am confident it will be OK.

I'm begining to have second thoughts about using this particular chassis, due to former owners efforts in shortening the length. I'm not at all convinced that all the cross members can be reinstalled for a satisfactory appearance. Time will tell and I will take a better look once home.

[Private_collector]

Cheers Hanno,

When I look back at what I started with, it makes me shudder. What the hell was I thinking?

[Hanno Spoelstra]

Originally Posted by Private_collector

Both Mike and I found no evidence of any modification to the chassis length. No join, no non standard welding, nothing. That is very curious. Mike enquired about what sort of rear body I was contemplating. I'm still not 100% sure, but had given thought to a turntable, based on the 115" wheelbase it is now. In the absence of any visible mods, is it possible the chassis may actually BE one of those tractors???

Tony,

I do not have a clear picture at hand, but the Ford chassis in particular has a clear taper from the mid-section running to the front and from the mid-section running to the rear.

If the chassis was shortened by sectioning, there would be evidence of welding which you say there is not.

I have seen another option to shorten a F60L with 158" wb. chassis: on this they moved the rear axle forwards and lobbed off the remainder of the chassis. This requires no "cutting and shutting" and does not leave any visible mods, other than that the chassis looses much (if not most) of the tapering to the rear end.

So by measuring the frame side rail height at appropriate places you should be able to determine is this a genuine 115" wb chassis - see what we did on Chevrolet chassis in the thread Chev CMP chassis views.

HTH,
Hanno

[Mike Cecil]

Hi Hanno and Tony,

Great afternoon talking 'green stuff' Tony, thank you!

First, I should say I'm not familiar with the finer points of the 115 inch WB chassis, so both Tony and I were working from that point on Wednesday.

What I observed was:
(1) no weld marks to indicate a 'cut and weld' shortening of the chassis, and no bolt holes to indicate that the spring hangers had simply been moved forward. Without knowing the finer points, it certainly looked like an original uncut chassis to me.
(2) no chassis number on the top of the right hand chassis rail, as per Ford Australia practice. The absence of a chassis number in that position is a pretty good indication that the truck was not assembled in Australia from imported and local components.
(3) the cab that came with the truck is an Australian assembled cab: both the rear and roof sections are Aust manufactured, and the floor is 1/4 inch Aust chequer plate, ie a 'standard' Aussie assembled Ford cab.
(4) the 115 inch wheel base seems too much of a coincidence for a farmer-shortened chassis.

So I'll be very interested in comparing images of Tony's chassis rails with those of an original 115 inch WB chassis, so if someone has one, some side images would be appreciated by both Tony and me, to do a comparison.

Mike

[Hanno Spoelstra]

Originally Posted by Bob Carriere

I know it has been covered before on MLU but no arm in repeating.

Our experience at the barn has been positive.

First the wheel inside portion has to be very clean by sand blasting and painted with a shinny oil based paint.... we use black POR 15.

We bought half a 5 gal. bucket of lubricating snoot..... it is a lubricant used by large truck tire shop which we lather one with rubber glove.

We have built a home made device to press on the tire on the bottom half of the rim. I should do a new series of pictures on how we use it...... we do have 4 tires to install over the next few weeks.

My device is basically a steeltube cross that bolts under the bottom half and presses the bottom bead over the rim..... just far enough to install the tube and flap and then press down the top half of the tire. The top half of the rim fits easily and using the two long studs start pulling the rims sections together. we use a small amount of air to insure the flap/tube do not pinch themselves.

The first design use regular 5/8 threaded bars but the thread got worn very easily. Replaced with ore expensive grade 8 threaded bar and "never sieze" grease on the thread. Even using the impact wrench works fine.

On the HUP 16" rims the walls of the rim are parallel and not tapered like a CMP rim and tires almost just drop on.

I have seen others shaving the bead down to the steel cable beads but I shudder at the long term results.

There has not been one 16 tire that we could not install

Removal is done with a chain saw and a angle grinder...... very carefully and no damage to the rims. The run flats tire casing do leave a generous amount of black rubber chips on the ground.

Persist and don't give up yet.

Maybe I can try doing a sketch/cross section of the tool we built so any one can replicate the process.

On the manufacturers difference..... we never measured the inside bead to bead but I can tell you that between Good Year....Firestone and Mohawk 9x16 tires that once installed we found a height diferences of over 1 1/2 inch. So the caution in the CMP manuals to match tire diameter is a real issue.

Bob,

Please post a sketch/cross section or photo of the tool in the restoration forum so others can replicate the process.

Thanks,
Hanno