Chevrolet C8 1940 Cab 11 restoration, The Netherlands

[Phil Waterman]

Hi All

Bob is correct, with no load the shocks don't have much if any effect on the ride. On my HUP driving with out shocks is noticeable. I've noticed the difference even more when one of links breaks. With the HUP one disconnected is far more noticeable than pair.

On the 3 tons the shocks don't do much on cab chassis or even on C60L with cargo body because the springs are so stiff. I suspect that the once the GVW gets up around 10,000lbs on the 3 tons that the shocks start to work.

There used to be a nice straight uniform bump across are road where a culvert crossed under road. When I'd hit that driving the HUP you knew if a link had let go. Being a late version mine has the metal ball type and over the years all four have failed generally at the lower weld. Each has been rewelded. Pictures of link and break point http://canadianmilitarypattern.com/HUPdetailphotos.html

Alex think I'll follow your idea on having new shafts made, though Bob's approach might be quicker. The shocks for my C60L are still sitting on the shelf to be installed.

Cheers Phil

[Alex van de Wetering]

Bob, I did indeed think about cutting the link and welding a bolt to the end, but I wasn't completely sure where to weld as I would also need the small lip to keep the retainers in position. This meant I either had to weld on a washer to act as a lip, or weld just below the existing lip.

Mike, regarding your question, I have no experience on driving CMP's, so I have nothing to add to Bob's and Phil's comments.....well, one addition maybe..... The front shock links on the C8 fix to a thick plate that is bolted to the front axle, as you know. One of these plates on my C8 did show wear and the round hole turned oval in the meantime. After checking I noticed the link and hole are not completely in-line, which obviously resulted in the hole turning oval.....so, there is some movement, but probably not too much as Bob and Phil described.

Alex

[Bob Carriere]

I actually bought some shock link rods from Vintage Power Wagon knowing they were too short.

I used the upper protion of the original link from my cab 11 and cut/welded/grafted the bottom threaded portion of the new link rod....it gave me the ring and rubber bushings, cupped washers, new thread section and the whole thing looks like new. Also did another set just using long grade 8 bolts but needed to find the necessary fine thread and tack welded the cupped washer where the ring would have been.

Cheers

[Alex van de Wetering]

Last week I sripped the dash panel from all knobs, bolts etc. and found some paint remnants....I would be very interested what others have to say about the colours!



I have found a satin black primer on the rear of the panel (normally hidden by the centre frame) and behind the bolts/washers normally fastening the panel to the frame.

Khaki green G3 can be found where the engine cover normally sits , behind some of the switches and behind the brace holding the steering shaft/tube.

A brown/red colour appears in several locations; first I thought remains of SCC2, but it might be Red Brown primer???

There is a rich brown/green colour behind the central fuel switch and on some of the sections of the dash; I think this might be SCC2???

The final colour is a blue-ish colour that is the top coat on all parts. Blue is the best description, so maybe a civvy post-war paint job, but it could also be a green that has faded to blue. Any opinions?




I hope the pictures help, but it was hard to capture the colours with the camera.

regards,
Alex

[Alex van de Wetering]

The paint remains are still keeping me busy. I took out my colour samples, painted according to Mike Starmers mixes ,and had another look at the dash.

The first picture shows the SCC2 colour chip on the left and the Khaki green G3 on the right. I am certain G3 is the pealing paint on the right....I am still not certain about the red/brown though....it could be SCC2, but could also still be a primer.
The second picture shows what was underneath the steering support....it looks somewhat like G3, but it seems brighter....Any ideas?

regards,

Alex

edit: I now see what difference light and angle can make.....the G3 sample in both pictures is one and the same, but looks totally different in both pictures!

[Mike K]

Hi

My cab 11 C8 had faded KG3 patches , it was overall in that colour , no camo I could find .

The Cab 12 C8 I bought years ago was painted a blackish disruptive colour over green - the black was brush applied . It was all very faded and difficult to see .

[Bob Carriere]

In one of the military magazine a while back one of the Ordenance paint supplier had pictures fo the same Dodge WC 56 taken at the same angle during different time of the day and the shades of Od was all different.

I don't know how we can address this.... than different computer screen set up, etc. heck even the eyes of different people will see shades differently.

My wife, who sloves photography, does most of her wildlife photos during the golden hours........ 2 to 3 hours after sun rise and 2 to 3 hours before sunset... the rest of the time the contrast is too harsh and light colors blown out.

Have you considered using "Pink" as used on the Land Rover in North Africa????

Kidding!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!