Ford Blitz Restoration/Rebuild

[Private_collector]

Hey there Andy,

I want to do three rows on the rear canopy. That will be the most difficult part. Mrs B will help with the manoeuvring of all that canvas, as it goes past the sewing point.

All the other parts shouldn't be too difficult (how's that for naive), as there will not be two rows required.

The three rows will be, one row stitched with both pieces facing inwards, then one stitch each side of the one just done, after the canvas has been opened facing outwards. So long as I follow the original stitch line, either side, that SHOULD guide me. Optomism Bourne from ignorance possibly.

I couldn't resist trying the machine again yesterday, putting into effect the pointers and advice I had been given. Although I still don't have the thread feed pressures correct, I did manage to get some sound sewing. While adding tension to the upper thread, I found a very fine line between crappy stitching and broken thread. The latter being most common result. Not too worried about that, because once I get the heavier thread, that problem should disappear.

Incidentally, I found yesterday that the heavy duty needles I have bought do NOT fit the machine. They are thicker where they insert into the area that locks them into place. It's an easy fix, but requires a replacement Needle Bar to fit them. I have ordered one, for $10, and it will be arriving next week. Then I will have to figure out how to change it over. That could be 'fun'. The manual is somewhat lacking in detail, and doesn't show that job at all. Can't be harder than rebuilding a transfer case, so I will learn as I do it.

[Mike K]

There is a excellent industrial sewing forum, I used to use it regularly , lots of decent advice from people who make stuff like boat covers bimini ? I think they call them . Will have a look for it .

Ok this is it

http://www.upholster.com/upholstery-forum/

[Private_collector]

Mike,

That is a BRILLIANT website!

I am very grateful that you have brought it to my/our attention.

Will certainly spend considerable time perusing it!

[Private_collector]

Wouldn't you know it, delays hit again.

After discovering that the needle bar on my sewing machine wouldn't take the thicker needles I intend to use, I sourced and ordered a replacement part to suit, at little expense ($10, including postage). When the new needle bar arrived, I started dismantling the machine for the changeover. Before going too far with pulling things apart I thought I should actually try inserting one of my thicker shank needles into the bar. It didn't fit! I had been sent the wrong size by mistake. Grrrrrr. It was exactly the same as the one I wanted to replace. A quick phone call to the distributor cleared up the issue, and the replacement for the replacement, is now on it's way. I hope!
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I bought this roll of heavy, UV treated thread to use with sewing my canvas. Curiosity lead me to cut off a length, wrap the ends around my hands, and see how much strain it would take to break the thread. The good news is that I couldn't break it at all. The bad news is, I could have cut off a finger! Wow, it is superbly strong thread. Would be nice to use it some day, if I finally get everything together. The 'wrong' needle bar is in the photo too, as is what will be my first piece of sewing......but only after I do lots of practice sewing.

I dropped in at the local paint shop a week ago, to get a few consumables. I wanted to be ready to paint a set of 16" wheels once they are sandblasted. While talking with the proprietor, I made a remark that it would be good if I could get my chosen color of camouflage paint in pre packed spray cans. The lady said she didn't see any reason why it wouldn't be available, and proceeded to phone Protec to enquire.
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And here is the result. It has always been available, I just didn't consider it worth asking about in the past. Now that i am likely to need to spray some small bits and pieces, I will keep a couple of cans in store. I haven't tried it from the can yet, so I don't know how it sprays, nor do I know how the drying time will be affected without the addition of the 15% (by volume, not weight) hardener I always put in. I do hope it sprays nicely. Nothing worse than a spray pack that spits and dribbles paint all over the place.

I'm driving down to Bandiana next Wednesday morning, to deliver my Sons car. Should arrive Thursday PM, and will be staying at Albury until I fly home on Sunday. I have emailed the folks that take bookings for visits to the military museum at Bandiana, and would like to take a look this time, after missing out when we were there around ANZAC Day.

[Jacques Reed]

Hi Tony,

Just looked at APAS 0165/1 online. Interesting reading.

Camouflage Green is specified as equivalent to US Federal Standard 595A colour 34088. This is the current Australian Army colour so it will be slightly different to the Khaki Green No.3 that Protec has previously made available.

It is the same colour paint that I have obtained from Wattyl and Croda over the years and now in the process of changing over to a closer late WW2 colour.

Cheers,

[Jacques Reed]

Just an aside to my previous post:

While following Gina Vampire's excellent thread on WW2 paint I can really appreciate how hard it is to track paint colour changes of 70+ years ago.

Even in modern times there seems to be little standardization of terms for paint.

Case in point: in the 2005 issued APAS 0006/2, as shown on an old can of paint that I have initially used on my CMP ford, it specifies "Low Gloss" however the manufacturer, Wattyl, calls it "Semi Gloss". That is probably a more accurate description as APAS 0006/1 is "Flat", And APAS 0006/3 is "Full Gloss" so the assumption is APAS 0006/2 is in between.

APAS 0006 refers to the 3 gloss levels but only refers to the colour as US FS 595B 34088 which is the matt chip. FS 14088 would be the gloss chip and 24008 would be the Semi gloss chip.

To further add confusion some manufacturers call low gloss paint flat or matte.

Even the names can be confusing as Camouflage Green is also referred to Olive Drab in the 2009 issued APAS 0165 Which is FS 595B 34008.

Anyway as a mater of interest I have attached a photo for comparison only of a part painted in Wattyl Semi Gloss Olive Drab, (the same colour/different gloss as the Protec aerosol) and a paint chip of the paint I had mixed to a good sample part colour which I hope is a lot closer to the late war KG J thanks to Gina's great thread.

I have bitten the bullet and will be repainting the truck as I go in that colour.

[motto]

If that is a true representation of the colour you are using Jacques it is pretty close to what I am using on my WW2 US vehicles and it looks right to me.
The paint I started with came from the Ordnance Factory Maribyrnong when it closed down and it is a Berger product identified as Transformer Olive Drab. It is quite old and takes some stirring and straining but it works ok though it's a bit slow drying to full hardness.
I also have a quantity of it now that was colour matched more recently and it's very good to use. Being flat it marks fairly easy but that's how it was.
At least it looks authentic, unlike some vehicles you see that have received a coat of paint that would be more suitable for a garden gnome.

David