Engine replacement

[Markwin Serlui]

Hi,

Thanks for the input!

[George McKenzie]

I changed a 216 to a 235 and i had to move the rad .I think the water pump was the problem and not the block it self

[Lionelgee]

Originally Posted by George McKenzie

I changed a 216 to a 235 and i had to move the rad .I think the water pump was the problem and not the block it self

Hello Markwin, George and Others,

I have a 216 that I was told had seen better days before the whole vehicle came home after I originally bought it in another town about five hours drive away from me. So I went ahead and bought a fully pressurised oiling "Blue Flame" 235.

I also did some research about the issue of the 235 water pump being too long. From memory one of the USA Old Chevrolet parts suppliers provide a compact version of the 235 water pump so the radiator does not need to be moved. It is sold by Bowtie Bits http://www.bowtiebits.com/store/stor...Category_ID=36 I have no connection to the retailer or the manufacturer.

After a quick online check I found a different supplier who makes an adaptor available on eBay - I have no connection to the seller. http://www.ebay.com/itm/1955-1962-CH...4eyFBg&vxp=mtr.

See there is more than one way to skin a cat.

Kind Regards
Lionel

[Bob Carriere]

For the record when I say 235 cu. in. engine I mean a full oil pressure block.

The 235 will fit and bolt right in BUT...... the water pump is the issue.

first you need the extra clearance near the front / rad location....

second issue is the 235 water pump installed inside the face of the 235 block is TOO low in relationship to the radiator and reduces cooling efficiency.

The best solution is to install a 216 water pump using the $40 dollarsadapter plate available on EBay. It allows the external 216 pump to be mounted on the 235 at a higher location more centred on the radiator face and gives you the clearance needed. The scary part for a lot of rebuilders is that the adapter plate requires to drill a couple of holes in the block face and tap them....... with care it can be done quite safely...... and it is far easier to do if the engine block is outside the truck.

Once the process is done, it is neat and professional looking and only a very well informed observer would notice the difference.

Bob C.

[Grant Bowker]

Like Bob, I have used the adapter plate approach. The ebay plate does require the use of a 1942 or later water pump (originally had 2 holes through the pump backing plate into the block) rather than the earlier pump (that had 1 hole through the plate into the block). Their instructions clearly state this and are also clear that the pulley sizes must match to keep the speed ratios correct. I wanted to use the older 1 hole style pump so made my own adapter plate. You do need to use more care with the orientation of bolt heads to avoid conflict with the 1 hole design but it can be done

[Jim Burrill]

My first CMP was a C-15A with a 216. Myfirst outing with it was to a winter reeanctment weekend. Drove it the 70 miles each way. On the way home - on freeway, in 4th and screaming at 40 MPH, the No1 piston went out the side of the block.

Later learned about the splash oiling, and why a steady smooth road kept the oil from splashing as much as it needed.

I found in a junk yard a 1954 235 block. Just dumb luck that it was the two years that the 216 water pump parts would bolt right up to a 235 block with no need for adaptors.

Rebuilt the 235 and installed it with no problem. Intalled it about 5 times, before I realized I had the clutch plate reversed!

Would go in and get about 1/2 inch from joining up...

ANyway, after that was sorted, the rest was simple spanner turning and it ran great.

[Frantisek Nachlinger]

I am thinking about findinag a 235 engine for our C8As and a C60S wrecker, I do not know much about those engine yet, when I was searching ebay I found "long block and "short block" ones, which ones are the ones?
Thank you,
Frankie