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#1
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Hi Richard and Rob,
Thanks very much for your advice (still chuckling over the "snake-oil"), and I agree with both of you that it's better to replace the seals when the unit's out of the vehicle rather than using additives that might work. We weren't aware of the leaking until everything was back inside the vehicle and we'd had a chance to run it for a day or two. Taking everything apart to remove the unit from the vehicle is not an option right now as we're now well into our museum's summer program of events and we have other vehicles that need attention. (There's a lot of politics here with our Ferret as it's not a representative vehicle of the RCASC, and the units that the Museum belongs to are RCASC units, so I have to tread carefully on how hard I push to get work done on the Ferret). As a short term fix would one of the two LUCAS products work as a temporary fix? Thanks again for your sage advice. Cheers, Chris Preston ![]() |
#2
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I got burned by one one of those products before....ended up costing me $800 in a transmission rebuild.
While the product may help re-vitalize the rubber in the seal, it cannot repair cracking nor can it repair the groove cut into the yoke. Personally, I would get accustomed to the leaking oil, keep an eye on the level and a small jerry can full of oil on the back, and milk it though the season until I could pull the xmsn and do it right. After the transmission repair, pour a bunch of engine shampoo into the hull, let it sit for a short bit then hose the heck out of the hull with the front wheels raised slightly on blocks. Open up the rear hull plugs and let the good times flow. The oil will return to the earth from whence it came. |
#3
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Thanks Rob,
That makes sense - cheers Mate. ![]() Chris |
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