Identification of F15 2WD?

[Phil Waterman]

Hi Bob

Years ago had a similar problem and I got tired of having to carry the shop vac out to empty it. At got bright idea of using a small submersible pump to pump out the vac base with a long hose to dump water far away from the shop. Then got the bright idea of plumbing the pump through the side of the base to connect the hose, which allowed the vacuum to pick up water at the same time it is being pumped out of the building.

Last time used the rig was to pick up the water off the floor of the shop while washing the HUP in the dead off winter.

Ah the joys of living with frozen ground, been a long hard winter, but have heart mud season is yet to come.

Cheers Phil

[Bob Carriere]

Funny I considered doing the same thing.

I built a 14 by 40 rear deck about 10 years ago to literaly move the eaves water away from the house. Never had a leak since then...... the shop vac started to squeal tonite and may have to find a new larger replacement...if I do I will look into piping a pump to the drain plug of the vac cannister.

I wanted to redo the computer room one day..... well that day as arrived. Luckily very little got wet except a few empty cardboard boxes as I have always taken the precaution of either using plastic storage containers or lifting everything on skids. Still a back breaking exercise.

cheers

[Ganmain Tony]

Made some good progress thanks to a very capable bit of help from the same neighbour.

Roof is in good nick but does have a few dings and numerous holes that required welding up.

Hatch is a bit of mess (arent they all) so thats for another weekend.

We have sucessfully got the roof straight with fairly minimal effort and all holes cleaned up. Gutters just required a bit of straightening with a block of wood and a shifter.

Canvas curtain on the back will look good. Managed to save the square nuts too. Bolts were knackered though.

[Ganmain Tony]

Hole drilled in roof to attach overhead indicators, and wiring to them (small hole in the middle of the cab) and two to bolt the roof hatch shut.

Roof indicators fitted post war by the Australian Army I'm led to believe.

Brass block placed underneath each hole prior to welding. A lot less weld to grind off when doing this.

Removing Canvas window brackets reveal canvas webbing. Then canvas curtain clamped between first and second bracket.

Does anyone know what the rubber insulator looks like that stops the hatch bashing in the roof when it is opened?

[Ganmain Tony]

Doesnt look like a lot but I have covered some ground over the last few weekends.

Had a heck of a lot of fun and learning some seriously handy skills as well as a few in house tricks.

Trick has been to get out all the damage out of the roof. But keep the spot welds and rough look that would have been there as it rolled off the factory floor.

We have not cheated (much) only very thin bog has been used to get very slight ripples where a weld repair has been done and one bad crease near the back window. Then a couple of coats of high fill .

[Ganmain Tony]

Also put a bit of top coat on some other bits. Dont it feel great to get some bits looking this terrific.

Couldnt wait to bolt everything down so I built a fragile castle and pretended.

Yes there may have been some flat head and crash gear change noises made as well.

[Ganmain Tony]

Started on the roof hatch. Removing remanants of latch. Drilling out domed slotted head bolts that refused to budge. By a miracle a roof in far worse condition than this one yeilded a pretty good latch and the bolts came out intact as well.