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Old 05-11-14, 10:31
Dale Jordan Dale Jordan is offline
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Hi Andrew how would it go sending a couple of pallets of wheel by ship to OZ. The freight may not be that bad . The wheels are 32 Kg Each. Dale
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Old 05-11-14, 16:08
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I have gone down the "china" route for tracks before, but you are still looking at 10K plus to get some made up.

There is a chap in Germany making ww2 track but the tooling costs alone were 15k. And you got a penalty for low numbers of links (ie anything less than 1000 links)
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__5th Div___46th Div__
1942 Ford Universal Carrier No.3 MkI*
Lower Hull No. 10131
War Department CT54508 (SOLD)
1944 Ford Universal Carrier MkII* (under restoration).
1944 Morris C8 radio body (under restoration).
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Old 05-11-14, 17:24
Dave Schindel Dave Schindel is offline
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I used 2 part polyurethane to do 2 wheels and they are working out very well.After being run for several miles it's hard to tell the original rubber from the poly.the hard part was finding a supplier for the poly. I made a mould using fiberglass and a good wheel,then cleaned up a rim, installed the mould, and poured the poly.
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Old 05-11-14, 18:31
Andrew Rowe Andrew Rowe is offline
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Yes Dale, I recon that is the best option for guys over here, if wheels need to get done , is to strip them here of old rubber and send them to Aus, or maybe cheaper to buy old rims in Aus, so there is only a one way trip.
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Old 05-11-14, 20:55
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Hanno Spoelstra Hanno Spoelstra is offline
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I recall Nigel Watson telling me about a company which remolded his carrier wheel(s): wrap a rubber strip around the wheel until it has the required diameter, cure the rubber and then machine it to shape on a CNC lathe. There is no need for a mould, so perfect for one offs or a small run. Has anyone looked into this?

H.
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Old 06-11-14, 08:24
Ben Ben is offline
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I had the 30's dated wheels re rubbered on the Scout using the method Hanno described, it's worked very well and looks great. The mould is a quicker and cheaper option after the initial outlay of the mould. The mould will be the key to a nice job but once it exists you can knock out as many as you like comparatively cheaply.

Out of interest the old chap warned me against using polyurethane as it has a tendency to "chunk" if the wheel ever caught something hard. I showed him a rubber original that has lost a chunk of sidewall and he said the same thing would happen but in his opinion the chunks would be worse for the same given incident. Both would ultimately do the same job.

Ben
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Old 06-11-14, 11:50
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Have looked into the wrapping method and it's an expensive way to do it, and again you get penalised for small numbers machining costs get you in the end.
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__5th Div___46th Div__
1942 Ford Universal Carrier No.3 MkI*
Lower Hull No. 10131
War Department CT54508 (SOLD)
1944 Ford Universal Carrier MkII* (under restoration).
1944 Morris C8 radio body (under restoration).
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