Armor removal and armor screws

[Steve Greenberg]

Gina,
Have you tried Kroil? I have used it before and it does seem to penetrate after it sits for a bit. http://www.kanolabs.com/
Steve

[maple_leaf_eh]

How about diesel fuel in a squirt bottle? I had to clean some minor rust and grease spots off a rifle barrel. Diesel and a scrub brush worked as good as any more expensive fluid.

BTW, I was told that Kroil is only sold business to business, and not to consumers.

[Mrs Vampire]

Terry Diesel is harder to get in than WD...I have had these bolts soaking for a couple of months now so its tough to get something down into an inch and a half of armour.

Steve I don't seem to be able to get that in Oz and they wont ship...except at exorbitant prices. I will try to hunt some out the reviews seem positive.

I got onto another couple of penetrants one is a Loctite product another a local Queensland mixture Inox. The Loctite is a freeze it idea Inox products seems to have MEK amongst other things in it.

I hit them with heat today and got one more big one out and a few more of the little 'uns .

The golf bag looks a bit like this now.

[Lynn Eades]

Gina, It is probably obvious to you, but may not be to some, so I will state the obvious;
The countersunk screw is (was) designed to be tightened (loosened) from the nut end. The taper is (was) supposed to sit cleanly in the countersink, and "bite into the taper. The purpose of the slot in the head is (was) to hold the screw from turning while it was still loose. I guess it can be likened to a taper on a shaft, when the two components are assembled nice and clean, they will come apart cleanly (easier than when rusted etc)
I would expect those heads to seal completely metal to metal and rust free between the faces. To me the best shot is to back the nuts off while the screws are still "stuck", and then pop them out.
I hope that helps somebody. It has worked for me, at least some times. (Carrier screws are a lot smaller)
Your various penetrants or rust removing compounds will have a better chance working in the threads of tensioned c/s screw.

[Mrs Vampire]

Lynn

All of the screws that hold the Armor on the Stuart and Grant are captive. ( the nuts are welded in place) 'twould be but a simple task were it otherwise. Likewise that theory would not work on aeroplanes where nearly every screw is into an anchor nut countersunk or otherwise. The P-40 gave me many interesting hours drilling the rusted ones out and replacing anchor nuts. ( though many were reid and prince type screws there were a good many slot types..)

I'll check out the half track but I think the same applies there.

[Lynn Eades]

Gina, fair enough! I thought that I'd read that you preferred not to attack them from the other side, because of the risk of fire. I didn't go back and check.
Now I understand.

[colin jones]

I'm curious Gina! are you heating the bolt or the welded nut underneath. If you are heating the bolt then I can understand why you're having trouble. I personally would heat the nut underneath red hot, not cooling it down and undo it while the nut is still hot. Can I ask why you want to remove the panel. Are you wanting to pull the engine.
Colin.