Armor removal and armor screws

[Mrs Vampire]

OK thanks for the great tips...will organize a bit of leaf spring and a Mig and give it a go....

Wayne any recommendations most effective words re the swearing.... ???

[Lynn Eades]

I'm guessing its a spur of the moment personal inspiration thing.

[Wayne Henderson]

I find it is best to start alpabetically, screws come out around words begining with c or d.

[motto (RIP)]

What I ended up doing with the White M3A1 armour screws was to split the nuts with a chisel. Saves time and angst. No damage to the screw heads and nuts are not expensive or difficult to get. Any damage to the thread on the screw can be easily fixed by running them through a die.

David

[Mrs Vampire]

Hi Motto

Most the rear nuts are captive...the others way way back inside the engine compartment .

If I can get the rear armor off then maybe I can reach in and split the nuts on the top deck...its a good suggestion.

Hey Andy ...you are right I can make one of those....what a great gadget!!!

as to the swearing...I was looking to vocabulary extension....

[Robin Craig]

Just a word about slot screw heads and modern screw driver type tools.

The tips on modern screwdrivers are tapered and the old type screwdrivers used by armourers have parralel tips.

The difference is that the tapered screwdrivers will naturally try and climb out of the slot head, that is why they round off and are so hated. An armourer type friend taught me this.

My 2 penny worth

R

[maple_leaf_eh]

Originally Posted by Robin Craig

Just a word about slot screw heads and modern screw driver type tools.

The tips on modern screwdrivers are tapered and the old type screwdrivers used by armourers have parallel tips.

The difference is that the tapered screwdrivers will naturally try and climb out of the slot head, that is why they round off and are so hated. An armourer type friend taught me this.

My 2 penny worth

R

Good point Robin.

This question reminds me of other posts, but I forget the answers. Surely this isn't the only forum on the net for armour restorers?

[David Herbert]

Looking at the ebay item in Andrew's post #10 it seems to be ordinary screwdriver bits and adaptors off a market stall and a 1/2" to 3/8" adaptor welded to a piece of pipe and painted white. I don't understand how this is any advantage over a normal T bar handle except you can put a really long piece of pipe into it and destroy the bit with less effort.

In my experience the driver bits shown are useless when confronted with "oval head bolts" (the correct term for them, from the parts lists) and I favour the use of a piece of leaf spring, carefully ground to a suitable shape, without getting it hot, and turned with the aid of a big adjustable spanner. Heating the bolt up to red hot and then letting it cool before trying helps too. Splitting the nuts is a good plan but usually the ones that won't undo are the ones that you can't get to the back of.

Quite a good way to measure the size of a problem like this is to count the number of beers that you must consume before the answer becomes obvious. A large vocabulary helps too.

David

[Steve Greenberg]

Gina,
Do you have drag link sockets like these listed on ebay? I think Snap ON makes an impact socket.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Walden-Worce...item2c88e0df3c

Steve