Anyone able to help identify a carrier

[Michael R.]

You will likely find most of this information with a read through the archives. If you consider buying Volume I and II of Universal Carriers by Mr. Nigel Watson, you should enjoy that immensely. Mr. Watson writes a good book: as well as being a superb host for wandering Colonials who occasionally venture across the pond. Nigel shares that character with the likes of S. Hindle, S. Garrett, M. van Aalderen and T. Jones. I digress.

In Ontario, a purchase of the carrier manual copies UC-F1 and FUC-03 from Brian Asbury in Acton (BCA on MLU) will provide hours of distraction and cloud your mind with useless trivia.

Straight spoke bogie wheels on T16 to serial number 1900. Offset spokes before solid disc Kelsey Hayes.

All steel return rollers can be found on late MK-I*, as well as the MK-II*, and T16. I have a 1943 MK-I* within a few hundred numbers of yours, it has rubber return rollers. Perhaps you started off with rubber, but at some point in service life they were replaced with the all steel return roller? With your engine being rebuilt in 1952, I wager there was other work completed to service your carrier.

Who knows what has been done after disposal by DND.

T16 engines are not the same as U.C. MK-I* or U.C. MK-II*. However, an interchangeability list does exist in the American produced T16 SNL manual for a small number of engine parts and other bits off the Canadian production MK-I*.

[Hans Mulder]

FYI, I think Volume 2 of Nigel Watson's books is out of print...I've been looking for one.

[Michael R.]

Ask Nigel directly for Volume II?
James may enjoy Volume I as it speaks to the MK-I/MK-I* and has the WD numbers list(s).

[chris vickery]

Another way to raise serial numbers might be to try dye penetrant.
You spray on the dye, let it dry and then spray on the developer.
It is meant for searching for cracks in metal, especially welds but I believe dye penetrant would also show up stampings as the metallurgy is different in the stamped area from the base metal; it was essentially stressed when it was stamped.
I have also heard of acid etching which "raises" the number as well. Google it and there is all kinds of info

[James Fritz]

Thanks Michael for your informative reply, which answered my questions. I didn't realize how much the carrier evolved over time and or which parts superseded which.

I recently ordered Nigel's Vol. 1 but it has not arrived as yet. I have much to learn and will read it when it arrives. I also acquired a copy of an old Universal Workshop Manual which I have started to read through. It is very detailed and the step by step layout will help me once I start working on my carrier.

I guess I was putting the cart ahead of the horse thinking about getting replacement parts before knowing exactly which are required and fit my model.

[James Fritz]

Originally Posted by chris vickery

Another way to raise serial numbers might be to try dye penetrant.
You spray on the dye, let it dry and then spray on the developer.
It is meant for searching for cracks in metal, especially welds but I believe dye penetrant would also show up stampings as the metallurgy is different in the stamped area from the base metal; it was essentially stressed when it was stamped.
I have also heard of acid etching which "raises" the number as well. Google it and there is all kinds of info

Thanks Chris. I will google both to find out where I can acquire either.

[Michael R.]

James it is all good. Your enthusiasm will be rewarded when someone captures that silly grin on your face first time out and about in your carrier. Enjoy the journey. Take care driving down the 10th St. E. hill towards the armoury.

[James Fritz]

Originally Posted by Michael R.

James it is all good. Your enthusiasm will be rewarded when someone captures that silly grin on your face first time out and about in your carrier. Enjoy the journey. Take care driving down the 10th St. E. hill towards the armoury.

The City added traffic lights 2/3 up the hill to make it more interesting during the winter. My grin would look upside down if my carrier brakes failed on that hill.

This afternoon I got to spend 1/2 hour between rain showers visiting my carrier. I am almost 100% positive my carrier's hull number is 13862 C. But I didn't find/see the engine number on the right intake manifold (right side looking forward while standing at back of carrier).

Question - How to best try turning the engine by hand as all belts are missing?

I can shove the clutch in but can't shift into neutral from reverse. Next weekend I will visit the carrier for a longer time and I intend to jack it up and place boards under the tracks. The carrier is sitting on a slight rise facing upward. Once it is on boards I am going to use a screw jack anchored to truck to slowly take any rearward pressure off the gears. Hopefully then I will be able to shift it into neutral.

If that doesn't work I will prepare to remove the tracks unless someone has another suggestion to try.