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  #1  
Old 13-05-14, 12:25
Keith Webb's Avatar
Keith Webb Keith Webb is offline
Film maker, CMP addict
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: HIGHTON VIC
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Default Restored

Well, we got it sort of running, with one front brake working, but at least it was alive again... not bad for a couple of 16 year olds I guess. And the front shell got a coat of paint.
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42 FGT No8 (Aust) remains
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Macleod, Victoria Australia
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  #2  
Old 14-05-14, 10:28
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Private_collector Private_collector is offline
Tony Baker
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Wide Bay, QLD, Australia.
Posts: 1,819
Default Its back in!!!

Hey, hey, hey! The transfer case is finally back where it belongs.
DSC_0084.jpg DSC_0082.jpg
There was a point in the lifting that I expected the hoist to run out of reach. The boom arm looked to be very high, and I wouldn't have been surprised to need to lift the case in two stages. In the end, it all worked out fine. Once bolted in place, I disconnected the chains to see how much height would have still been available, if needed. I found there was only another 1/2" beyond the height I needed. How's that for lucky.
DSC_0080.jpg
Is this really how the speedo drive sits? That's quite a sharp turn the cable has to make.

DSC_0085.jpg
Now I need to decode how this goes together.
I did take some photos of the way I pulled it apart, but like the maintenence manual, those photos are not as instructive as I would like them to be.
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Ford CMP, 115" WB,1942 (Under Restoration...still)
Medium sized, half fake, artillery piece project. (The 1/4 Pounder)
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  #3  
Old 14-05-14, 11:00
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hrpearce hrpearce is offline
WO8 C15A 142736
 
Join Date: May 2007
Location: Batlow Road near the Cow & Calf
Posts: 1,958
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Looks good Tony.
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  #4  
Old 15-05-14, 11:40
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Ryan Ryan is offline
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Location: Golden Plains, Victoria, Oz
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That's just crazy clean. I'd be afraid to drive it.
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  #5  
Old 18-05-14, 11:04
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Private_collector Private_collector is offline
Tony Baker
 
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Wide Bay, QLD, Australia.
Posts: 1,819
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The transfer case shifting assembly is now back on, and with the help of new detent balls & springs, it selects freely. I will remove only the lever, when it comes time to put the cab on the chassis. Where can I buy a new shifter knob? I bought one from Macs some months ago, but it has a thread that is far too small.

I got interested in the wiring harness today, so decided to remove some of the seperate pieces out of the large bag they came in. I wanted to consider installing anything that runs along the chassis. When I removed them all, I found one I wanted, and opened the seal on that particular bag. Got the fright of my life when one of the numbered tags fell off the wire it was wrapped around. I guess over 12 months in a shed which can heat up to the high 40s (celsius) has weakened the gum on the tags! I very carefully reattached that tag, checked all the others on that section, and ever so gently replaced it back into the plastic bag. No further attempt will be made to open any of the bags until I settle on a way to secure those tiny little tags. That could have been disasterous if I had knocked several of the tags off before I discovered the situation. Yikes! Close call.

Gentlemen, I need assistance with some information on two areas.
Firstly, can anyone help me with photos of the part which holds the emergency brake band/shoe to its bracket. I mean the bit on the mid point of the shoe, furtherest away from the opening/closing ends. It can't be much of a mechanism, but I cannot find a diagram or wrawing in the manual. Never had that part, and don't want to try making anything until I know what should be there. Typically, there is no image of this in the manual.
Secondly, I would like to see what the linkage to the PTO looks like. Once again, never had that part, and the info about it in the manual is rudimentary at best. Measurements and closeups of the ends, would be very much appreciated.

Friday I from Mothers house, and brought back a quantity of tools which had belonged to both my Father and my Brother. This morning I arranged them, along with my own tools, into the tool cabinet draws. It was a considerably larger job than I had expected, and was time consuming to say the least. Some of those tools (Dads mainly) are older than I am, some very much older, dating back to the 1930s & 1940s. I hope my Son takes finds them as valuable and worthwhile as I do. Time will tell.

It just occured to me that the rear drive shaft on my junked truck might be an ideal candidate to have shortened to fit the restoration truck. There is always the possibility that it is already too short. Wish I had thought to remove it this morning, but it can wait until Wednesday.
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Ford CMP, 115" WB,1942 (Under Restoration...still)
Medium sized, half fake, artillery piece project. (The 1/4 Pounder)

Last edited by Private_collector; 18-05-14 at 11:11.
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  #6  
Old 18-05-14, 12:35
T Creighton T Creighton is offline
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Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Katikati New Zealand
Posts: 167
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Private_collector View Post
Firstly, can anyone help me with photos of the part which holds the emergency brake band/shoe to its bracket. I mean the bit on the mid point of the shoe, furtherest away from the opening/closing ends. It can't be much of a mechanism, but I cannot find a diagram or wrawing in the manual. Never had that part, and don't want to try making anything until I know what should be there. Typically, there is no image of this in the manual.
.
Hi Tony, Great looking work. Is this pic any help.
Cheers
Terry
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Brake Details.jpg (97.7 KB, 15 views)
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F30 13 Cab CMP
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  #7  
Old 18-05-14, 12:49
T Creighton T Creighton is offline
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Location: Katikati New Zealand
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Hi again Tony, I can take a photo of the other side of the band tomorrow if that helps although there are some details on page N5 in the MB-F1 manual.
Cheers again,
Terry
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  #8  
Old 18-05-14, 13:24
Lynn Eades Lynn Eades is offline
Bluebell
 
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Tauranga, New Zealand
Posts: 5,541
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Tony,(see the bolt and spring on the rhs of jeep picture) I am not familiar with your truck, but in saying that, the mount is fairly simple. The anchor I would call it, probably has a hole in the side (centre) This takes a spring in the hole. the spring goes in, and then the band slides on the square over the spring (which you have to compress to get the band assy. on)
A bolt with a tie wire drilled head screws in through the band into the anchor casting. when the other end is all sorted, this bolt is adjusted so that the lining is just clear of the... I'll call it the drum. When the hand brake is applied, the band is pulled in onto the drum against the spring. When it is released the spring moves the band back against the bolt head, giving the lining and drum a working clearance (the amount the bolt head allows the spring to push it away) The bolt is located by the tie wire.
The aim When you have the other end sorted out, is to have minimum travel of the h.b. lever while also having the lining clear,and the drum turning freely (which is important from a fuel consumption/ power/happy truck/ happy driver point of view.
Find a Dodge military manual (1/2 or 3/4 ton) or parts book, for a decent picture.
Hope that helps?
Hi Terry and Louise
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File Type: jpg download.jpg (9.6 KB, 350 views)
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