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Rick,
Thanks for the "heads up". I've got copies of the Work shop Manual and Illustrated Parts List, thanks to Brian Asbury. Steep learning curve, but time in the garage has to be the best therapy available. Couldn't help but compare the original generator to a NOS spare that I inherited from Giorgio. Pulley swap and I should be in the running. Just wonder what year it will be when I start putting it back together. I welcome all the advice that I've been receiving, from welding to electrical. Peter 2014-04-06 12.15.55 (2).jpg |
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[QUOTE=Peter Duggan;194047]Just wonder what year it will be when I start putting it back together. I welcome all the advice that I've been receiving, from welding to electrical.
Peter Peter... If I lived closer - it would be on the road sooner......more than willing to help. Good luck with this. f
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Charles Fitton Maryhill On., Canada too many carriers too many rovers not enough time. (and now a BSA...) (and now a Triumph TRW...) |
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A project such as this, or any for that matter can be very overwhelming, especially for anyone new to the hobby.
I was encouraged from early on with my first MV restoration to consider the following; Research, read, ask questions, visit others, check out like vehicles, take pictures, measurements, notes. Buy lots of Ziploc bags, a marker and some totes or sturdy cardboard boxes. Get shelving or have a storage area. Buy whatever parts happen upon you along the way, set them aside for later. Have patience, sometimes it is worth the wait. Don't look at the project as a whole; divide it up into bite sized pieces. If you take an approach like this it is easier to comprehend and to avoid discouragement. On any project, I would divide it up into the main sub assemblies and then dissect each sub assembly as it's own project. The hull, frame, engine, transmission, suspension, axles, brakes etc. As you progress with each sub assembly set it aside on the shelf and go to the next. Before you know it there are a lot less little pieces left and only a few large ones to re-assemble. On a project like this Lynx, don't take shortcuts- do it right the first time. It is a rare beast that deserves a top notch restoration. This will not only do justice to such a wonderful piece and make a great impression but will also add overall value once completed. P.S. if it doesn't work out let me know and I'll gladly take it off your hands.. ![]()
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3RD Echelon Wksp 1968 M274A5 Mule Baifield USMC 1966 M274A2 Mule BMY USMC 1966 M274A2 Mule BMY USMC 1958 M274 Mule Willys US Army 1970 M38A1 CDN3 70-08715 1 CSR 1943 Converto Airborne Trailer 1983 M1009 CUCV 1957 Triumph TRW 500cc RT-524, PRC-77s, and trucks and stuff and more stuff and and....... OMVA, MVPA, G503, Steel Soldiers |
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Factory paint
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#5
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Great pic Michael. Those would be Lynx 1 I think? They all have the armoured type roof.
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3RD Echelon Wksp 1968 M274A5 Mule Baifield USMC 1966 M274A2 Mule BMY USMC 1966 M274A2 Mule BMY USMC 1958 M274 Mule Willys US Army 1970 M38A1 CDN3 70-08715 1 CSR 1943 Converto Airborne Trailer 1983 M1009 CUCV 1957 Triumph TRW 500cc RT-524, PRC-77s, and trucks and stuff and more stuff and and....... OMVA, MVPA, G503, Steel Soldiers |
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Chris,
Thanks for the good advice. I like to think that I am making slow but steady progress and the pile of restored/NOS and acquired parts is growing. Goal for this year is to dismantle the vehicle and have the frame restored for a sound basis for next year. I'm in it for the long term, but do spend some garage time day dreaming about what it will look like some day. Peter 2014-04-08 21.41.05 (2).jpg 2014-04-08 21.41.25 (2).jpg |
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![]() Great photo, Michael. There are approximately 140 in that photo plus some extra chassis. The question is now, was this the Ford or the International Harvester factory? The chassis were built by Ford and the Hull by IHC. Was it easier to move the chassis from Ford to International Harvester or the other way around. Where did the final fitting take place? e000760756.jpg.jpg e000760759.jpg.jpg Regards Rick.
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1916 Albion A10 1942 White Scoutcar 1940 Chev Staff Car 1940 F30S Cab11 1940 Chev WA LRDG "Te Hai" 1941 F60L Cab12 1943 Ford Lynx 1942 Bren Gun Carrier VR no.2250 Humber FV1601A Saracen Mk1(?) 25pdr. 1940 Weir No.266 25pdr. Australian Short No.185 (?) KVE Member. |
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Good day today, removed the engine. Found a tag wired to the rear axle and I've attached a picture. Does this mean the rear assembly was replaced some time during it's career? The speedometer is past resurrection (thanks to Dirk L., I've got a NOS one on the way). But it appears to show over 24,000 miles on the odometer, which for this type of vehicle seems quite high. The oral history I got with the vehicle is that after the Canadian troops left Italy, it was in turn given to the Italian army and ultimately the Italian police, before it was scrapped in the mid seventies. Is there any practical manner of researching the history of a Lynx based solely on the hull number?
Thanks, Peter 2014-04-09 19.56.55 (2).jpg 2014-04-09 17.27.21 (2).jpg |
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Hi Peter, I see you making good progress. The tag is the standard diff identification tag. C29SR , I think this means 1942, scout car , rear engined.
The 4000 B is the part number for the diff. In this case 6.66 to 1 ratio. Has 640 stamped on the back of the housing, which means 6 teeth pinion and 40 crown wheel . Outside dia. of diff housing will be 14 -7/8'' across. This assembly supplied for service from serial #3000. The front diff will be tagged 3000 C , if the tag is still there. The gen pulley you are going to swap over, just be careful it is not screwed onto the shaft, some are some are just keyed on, a trap for young players is to put a puller on a screwed on pulley and smash it to bits, I know I have done it!
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Valentine MkV Covenanter MkIV Lynx MKI and MKII Loyd Carrier / English / Candian / LP. M3 Stuart Last edited by Andrew Rowe; 10-04-14 at 08:56. |
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