Lynx II, hull # 4225

[chris vickery]

MMM, desert sand 8th Army. Sexy.

[RichCam]

Peter,

I looked at the picture of the fuel tank. I think I might have one here at the shop. It was in with a bunch of old CMP parts and pieces. Can anyone tell me what the dimensions are? I might even have the fuel tank brackets!
Cheers - Richard

[Peter Duggan]

Richard,

Great news. I trial fitted a CMP tank, which had the fittings in the wrong locations, and it fit nicely. The dimensions are 10" x 12" x 32". The brackets would be most welcome as well. I have sourced a second tank, thanks to some fine networking with MLU members. MLU has a serious number of knowledgeable and generous members.

Sounds as if we'll be doing some trading. Thanks again, Peter. Won't even matter if I end up with two tanks for the same side. I've already got a fine example of how to convert one.

[Peter Duggan]

Folks,

Removed the tail piece today, to expose a strange looking radiator. I can just hear the Ford engineers when they were mocking up the first units. "Need to provide a way to hand crank the engine? Radiator in the way? Just go through it!!"

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[Bruce Parker (RIP)]

Originally Posted by Peter Duggan

Folks,

Removed the tail piece today, to expose a strange looking radiator. I can just hear the Ford engineers when they were mocking up the first units. "Need to provide a way to hand crank the engine? Radiator in the way? Just go through it!!"

Attachment 64757

Attachment 64758

When I had a rad made for my Fox I requested the same 'hole for the crank'. The guy was so iffy (I'll do it but at a price) I gave up. Turns out the core he chose was just short of the real thing so I am able to slide the crank under (rather than through) the rad. All is good!!!

[chris vickery]

Engineering marvel and artwork all in one.
Cool looking rad with the oil cooler. Bet that would be an expensive rebuild. Lets hope for the best.
Your project makes me envious, I love it.

[chris vickery]

I did see another rad one time that had the crank hole in the lower rad tank. Might have been my old halftrack, can't remember.

[lynx42]

Peter,

It is interesting that there is an oil cooler pipe attached to the front of the radiator. Mine does not have that luxury. Here is mine from the back showing the shroud. I presume that yours has that as well. My radiator was in perfect condition but had been removed from the hull in 1958. The local radiator chap only charged me A$125.00 for a full strip down, tube clean and reassemble. It was like a new one inside.

Regards Rick.
Lynx Engine in and Hull on 128a.jpg

[Peter Duggan]

Rick,

Same radiator shroud as on yours. I fear the radiator is not the pristine version that you have. One positive surprise is the condition of the interior of the voltage regulator and associated parts. Not bad for 70 year old parts.

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[Lynn Eades]

Peter, you can edit your post. To change the name to Rick, have a look at (any of) your personal post. At the bottom are three options Reply and Edit and Quote. Hit edit and change what you want. Then hit save. It's easy!

....I wish I had a Lynx

[lynx42]

Originally Posted by Peter Duggan

Rick,

Same radiator shroud as on yours. I fear the radiator is not the pristine version that you have. One positive surprise is the condition of the interior of the voltage regulator and associated parts. Not bad for 70 year old parts.

Attachment 64798

Attachment 64799

Peter, your shroud is different to mine. I do not have that 2" flat piece around the opening.

My voltage reg was as good as yours too. Don't forget that the Lynx runs on 12 Volts. Unusual for a Ford during WWII. Actually there are two other voltages as well. 6volts for the gauges and 4.5 volts for the coil.

Regards Rick.

[Robert Bergeron]

Good luck on your project Peter !

Not too many of those around !



Robert

[Peter Duggan]

Folks,

Got to spend some time in the garage and got the last wheel assembly apart. Great condition, just like the others. Looks as if a rebuild kit for the wheel cylinder and new grease for the bearings is all that's required.

Since this is a "ground up" restoration, I've now started to scope out tires. I understand getting the chevron pattern in 9:00 by 16' is impossible and I'm not a great fan of the NDT, which I have on my Power Wagon. I have heard that the tires for the Ferret are compatible.

I would welcome any suggestions or comments.

Peter

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[Mrs Vampire]

so far as welding mild steel on armor ....it cracks off easily so the Ni Rod offer is a good one

So far as sand blasting ...I am against it unless extreme rust is the issue. All blasting removes original paint. I prefer to spot treat rust and paint over old paint so its still there.

Original paint on WWII vehicles is extremely rare. For my own tank I have only ever over painted so I have been able to go back and rub down to discover original markings , camo schemes and colours.

I am happily in the same position with my FGT #9 . Blast it off and its gone forever...no possibility of future research.

[chris vickery]

Peter, if the Lynx is as common to the Ford cmp as I think, the wheel cylinders are an of the shelf item. I will look around to see if I can find my cross reference to the modern numbers. I also have the master cylinder number as well if it is the same. Does the Lynx use a Hydroboost?
I found when I did the first CMP truck which was a Ford that many parts were still available as they were common off the shelf items when the War broke out, borrowed from their civilian predecessors.
I found though to research the crossover parts that I needed to go to an old time auto parts store where they actually still use catalogs and not computers to check. The catalogs will show pictures with sizes etc of the components. If memory serves, the Ford CMP brake system was listed under 2 ton commercial truck 1940s-50s.
I also found Mac's Antique Auto in NY to be quite helpful as well.

[rob love]

Wheel cylinders on the back are Chev, while the front are Ford. I used a wheel cylinder WC4358 for the rears and the fronts are the standard Ford WC4571 while the master is the MC4572. I went with the silicone brake fluid and while the jury is still out on the long term benefits, I can tell you that it was a bugger to seal at the various joints and copper gaskets.

[rob love]

Ferret tires are getting difficult to find in good shape.

Another possibility is to go with the Chevron 10.50x16 tires available from STA in the US. They will run you around $320 a tire, and are a little too large, but have the look. I hope to eventually be installing a set of them on the Shilo Lynx.

[chris vickery]

Hey Rob, interesting to note your use of silicone brake fluid. I too have changed to using it for a couple reasons and so far its worked out.

1) silicone will not ruin painted surfaces like the old brake fluid, especially when bleeding lines etc or in the event of a leak

2) silicone does not absorb moisture like the old stuff, hence less chance of corrosion in places like wheel and master cylinders. I think this an advantage in itself as many of our MVs sit without use during storage.