C60 cwt Signals CZMk IV

[Phil Waterman]

Hi Gordon

Is that the oil line for the gauge, next to the manifold? Figured this might be a temp location.

With the modern gas the manifolds really run hot particularly on the bigger trucks that have to work to haul their aerodynamic bodies through the air. I've had to shield the oil filter lines for the top mounted oil filter and have routed the gauge line away from the engine with a loop over to the left cab frame then across the channel under the windshield over to the dash.

My solution to the valve cover gasket was similar gluing the cork gasket down to the cylinder head to act as a coffer dam around the top of the cylinder head. Without using gasket cement on the top so that cover can be removed to adjust the valves. Yours with the hydraulic valve lifters this should not be a problem.

Most of the the sheet metal valve covers have over the years been wrapped after years of tightening the top bolts trying to stop leaks. There have been some creative fixes for this including big U shaped hold downs fit under the cover bolts and extend down to the lower lip.

Your project is sure coming along and your attention to detail and finish is really setting the standard for the rest of us. Keep us posted.

Cheers Phil

[Gordon Yeo]

Phil

Thanks for the suggestion about re-routing the oil line. I was more concerned about having it lashed down and didn't consider the heating problem

At the moment I am trying to get my light wiring sorted out. I have scrounged up and reconditioned enough take-off original lights to do the fender markers and tail lights. Now I need to mount the tail lights, would any one out the have a picture of where and how tail lights are mounted on a Lindsey van body?

Gord

[Alex van de Wetering]

Gordon,

Excellent work and very inspiring.

Now I need to mount the tail lights, would any one out the have a picture of where and how tail lights are mounted on a Lindsey van body?

On a C60X Lindsey body the rear lights are mounted on the rear lower edge of the body, between the strips holding the rear fenders (left and right in same location). I presume your Lindsey body will be the same. I guess you should be able to find two small holes (bracket) with a larger hole (wiring) in the middle(?)
Clive's factory photo's CD has two excellent shots of the rear lights on a C60X. Attached you will find a pic of a restored C60X. The brackets were enlarged to add a larger light for modern traffic, but the idea is the same.
Originally two lights on the left, one on the right, although the brackets were identical on both sides....with two holes....one not used on the right side.

Alex

[Gordon Yeo]

Alex

Thank you very much for posting the photo of the tail lights. The mud flaps on the C60X are mounted exactly the same way as my C60 and the holes for the tail lights are there. There were no original lights on the truck and I needed confirmation that the holes present were for the original light brackets. I also will be mounting more appropriate service lights so that gives me a good design to copy.
You posted that you were glad to see another Lindsey body being restored, now you can say you have been a help in that enterprise.

Gord

[Phil Waterman]

Hi Gordon

Looking back through war time photos that have been posted over the years the small L shaped two light holder was pretty much standard.

Take a look at http://www.mapleleafup.net/forums/sh...ad.php?t=14097 I'll find some other photos.

Photos below are HUP but all of original mounting brackets for the Pattern 13s I have seen have look identical. Note the switch this is a late production change replacing the tail light isolation switch which had been on the frame near the right rear wheel to a switch on the tail light. It turns off the tail light and turns on a light under the truck aimed at the differential back which was painted white. This was for blackout convoy.

As tail lights they are totally worthless. On all of my three I've added 3" commercial truck tail lights. On my large trucks I have concealed these behind the standard round reflectors which where common to military vehicles.

I've been looking for good bright LED units to replace the bulbs.

Think I have an original bracket that came with my C60S on the shelf that I can do a drawing of.

Cheers Phil

[chris vickery]

Just a sugestion Gordon;
On one previous project that I restored, I used 4 of the rubber style early taillights with red lens and added two later type M series w/ full lens 24v type changed to 6v on quick disconnects (Packard). I used the Packard connectors so I could remove them if I wanted to display at a show and be more period correct.
At any rate, I would suggest using mil-spec lights of some type rather than anything civilian.

[Grant Bowker]

For a LED stop/turn/tail light, consider the 7" bus units. Grote, Truck-Lite and Peterson (and probably others) should all make comparable units, designed to mount on flat surfaces. Who could miss them? An example of what I'm thinking of is at the bottom of page 78 of this catalogue. http://www.grote.com/marketing/Liter...Turn-Lamps.pdf
To be even more conspicuous, mount them on a removable board covered in reflective sheeting. http://multimedia.3m.com/mws/mediawe...SevTSeSSSSSS--

[chris vickery]

The only issue with LED lighting may be the requirement for 12v. Not sure how the truck is being wired up but, if 6v, not sure whether or not LEDs will work. I don't think they make a 6v version...

[Harry Moon]

I've used both 6 volt and 12 volt LED in my tail lights. I couldn't get off the shelf 6 volt bulbs that fit in the pencil lights but did in 12 volt. I also replaced the lens cover with the "Jewell" type found in Hot Rod shops, they make the light stick out a bit more for seeing at an angle and the LED lights are clearly visible on the brightest days.
More recently on my trailer I set up a pair of magnetic tow-truck taillights with turn signals. Stick them on when traveling and stick them underneath when on display or parade.

[Phil Waterman]

Hi Gordon

Here are some photos and drawing of the Tail Light Bracket from my HUP, maybe someone could confirm these against other brackets.

If the drawing is not large enough to read the measurements I can post a larger version on my web page.

All the extra lines are how I do the lay out to drill and cut before bending. When I made up the replacements for the HUP during the restoration I printed the drawing full size self adhesive label stock which I just stick on the steel.

Just realized that a dimension was missing the thickness of the steel 0.140 inches thick. Also the drawing shows a sharp bend while of course it is slightly radius-ed.

Cheers Phil