Water in the oil

[Grant Bowker]

If you are ever likely to see freezing temperatures, I suggest anti freeze.
It doesn't need to be anything fancy, no need for exotic "aluminum safe" or "multi-metal galvanic corosion prevention" as it's all pretty much cast iron and brass that got along just fine on lowtech versions. An ethylene glycol based antifreeze giving lowered freeze point and some anti-corrosion should be enough. But I would stay away from the old-time concoctions (wood alcohol, salt, honey etc.)
A side benefit is that antifeeze/coolant usually also raises the boiling point.

[Little Jo]

Hi Grant

That is some good advice. But where I live in the country here in South Australia, Man I would die if we had freezing temperatures and I would never leave the house. I feel for you guys in Canada and Europe at the moment, it is 22 degrees here today and that is cold for this time of the year. So I guess I can leave out the anti freeze in my jeep.

Cheers

Tony

[Lynn Eades]

Tony, A corrosion inhibitor prevents the build up of rust inside the block head etc.(assuming it is clean to start with) this then allows an efficient transfer of heat to the water, and away to the air at the radiator. The inhibitors do require careful sealing as they are inclined to leak more easily than plain water.
Keep in mind that 90+ percent of engine failures stem from cooling system problems. Does your engine have steel core ( or frost,or expansion) plugs? Is it worth trying to prevent any further internal corrosion of your block or head etc. from what you say the tin plated retainer for your thermostat had rotted away, so the inside of your block must also be slowly corroding. All that stuff helps to block up your radiator(don't forget to flush it, from top and bottom)
Yes I would recommend an inhibitor. An anti freeze type usually should be replaced yearly, whereas something like Fuchs engine coolant(German brand) might outlast you. (you mix it 50% with your rain water)

[Little Jo]

Originally Posted by Lynn Eades

Tony, A corrosion inhibitor prevents the build up of rust inside the block head etc.(assuming it is clean to start with) this then allows an efficient transfer of heat to the water, and away to the air at the radiator. The inhibitors do require careful sealing as they are inclined to leak more easily than plain water.
Keep in mind that 90+ percent of engine failures stem from cooling system problems. Does your engine have steel core ( or frost,or expansion) plugs? Is it worth trying to prevent any further internal corrosion of your block or head etc. from what you say the tin plated retainer for your thermostat had rotted away, so the inside of your block must also be slowly corroding. All that stuff helps to block up your radiator(don't forget to flush it, from top and bottom)
Yes I would recommend an inhibitor. An anti freeze type usually should be replaced yearly, whereas something like Fuchs engine coolant(German brand) might outlast you. (you mix it 50% with your rain water)

Hi Lynn

From what I am being told it is a good idea to use a corrosion inhibitor. One of our club members came around this morning and I showed him the stripped down head. He also suggested using an inhibitor and said as there were so many types in use to speak to Repco and they can advise what would be good inhibitor for the old girl.

I had the radiator rebuild 18 months ago and when I drained it before removing the head the water was still clear and clean, I will flush it doing the top and bottom before putting in the new thermostat and retainer. I know that when I filled the radiator it always seemed to find it's own level in the top tank after a drive.

I hope that after the head is shaved and all is back together I have solved the problem, but if there is still water in the oil after that then It means the engine coming out and stripping it down to find the leak. When my club friend had a look at the old gasket and head he suggested the head may not have been torqued down properly. Geez I hope that is all it was as if it is the block then I will be off the road for some time. Fingers crossed.

Thanks for all you good advice and suggestions.

Cheers

Tony

[Phil Waterman]

Hi All

Three of the reasons I have always heard for using a 50/50 mix of antifreeze are:

1. Freeze protection down something like -35C even then it doesn't freeze like water hard but instead the water starts to separate out as ice crystals making a mush which doesn't pump through the engine very well.
2. Rust inhibitor, which depending on your local water can be very important in preventing rust. In the US even rain water may be acetic particularly in the North East.
3. Higher boiling point a 50/50 mix of antifreeze even in a non-pressurized system has a significantly higher boiling point than just plain water. Going to one of the company data sheets they list boiling point as being 107C (226F)
   and freeze point as -37C (-34F) for 50/50 mix.

On one occasion when setting up a new engine 261cu.in. for my C60S I didn't use antifreeze or rust inhibitor while I was testing the engine and had significant rust damage to the water pump adapter plate in a very short period of time. Rust pitted the plate to the point that it had to be replaced because of a weeper leak in the sealing surface. Lesson learned now I always use either rust inhibitor or antifreeze any time I fill a cooling system.


I have also seen the difference in cooling once when having a cooling problem on my Pat 12 C60L as I blew water out of the system because of overheating and replaced it on the move with a pressure pump putting water back into the system the overheating kept getting worse and worse as the antifreeze in the engine was gradually replaced by plain water.


Cheers Phil

[Little Jo]

Originally Posted by Phil Waterman

Hi All

Three of the reasons I have always heard for using a 50/50 mix of antifreeze are:

1. Freeze protection down something like -35C even then it doesn't freeze like water hard but instead the water starts to separate out as ice crystals making a mush which doesn't pump through the engine very well.
2. Rust inhibitor, which depending on your local water can be very important in preventing rust. In the US even rain water may be acetic particularly in the North East.
3. Higher boiling point a 50/50 mix of antifreeze even in a non-pressurized system has a significantly higher boiling point than just plain water. Going to one of the company data sheets they list boiling point as being 107C (226F)
   and freeze point as -37C (-34F) for 50/50 mix.

On one occasion when setting up a new engine 261cu.in. for my C60S I didn't use antifreeze or rust inhibitor while I was testing the engine and had significant rust damage to the water pump adapter plate in a very short period of time. Rust pitted the plate to the point that it had to be replaced because of a weeper leak in the sealing surface. Lesson learned now I always use either rust inhibitor or antifreeze any time I fill a cooling system.


I have also seen the difference in cooling once when having a cooling problem on my Pat 12 C60L as I blew water out of the system because of overheating and replaced it on the move with a pressure pump putting water back into the system the overheating kept getting worse and worse as the antifreeze in the engine was gradually replaced by plain water.


Cheers Phil

Hi Phil

I am so grateful for the terrific information and assistance I am receiving from fellow MLU members. You guys have helped this poor novice since joining the forum 3 years ago when I started my Jeep restoration project. By following your advice I have gained the confidence to now tackle any problem that arises. The wealth of experience you guys have comes, I am sure from having been through similar happenings along the way. I will follow your advice to the letter, how can I go wrong.

Thanks. Phil, Lynn, Grant, Keith, Mike and Richard for your support and assistance.

Cheers

Tony

[Little Jo]

Hi Guys

Well I am ready to fit the Cylinder Head back on. So far I have replaced the old Thermostat with a new one and a new retainer. I have also replaced the original bolts with new studs. (See Photos). I had a look at my new cylinder Head Gasket, which is sealed and Silver in colour. It is a 17446.01 Gasket head -L-head type. There is a printed note in 3 languages inside which state.

CAUTION
* The surface of this head gasket has been treated with a coating for better sealability.
* DO NOT use any chemicals or sealers. It must be installed dry.

I have not come across this before as everyone is telling me to spray a copper coating sealant on the metal side before replacing the head. My Question is, do I follow the enclosed instructions that came with the Head gasket, or do I go ahead with the copper spray sealant. Have any of you guys out there in MLU land come across a similar scenario.

PHOTOS.
1. Prepared head ready to put back on.
2. Cleaned up top of the block showing new Studs.

I do want to do the right thing and have no more leaks. Thanks guys.

Cheers

Tony