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  #1  
Old 04-12-13, 17:51
Bob Carriere Bob Carriere is offline
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Default Cpp - 2

Sorry for being unclear I am talking about the CCP - 2 power sypply with a knife switch to give 12 or 24 volts.....actually more like 14.6v and 28.7 v.

The other 110 v power supply for the 19 set that fits on the board will be examined later...

Will post pictures later today....... both date stamped 1952.

Will attempt to cannibalize a double pole single throw switch from an old NRC research panel of the late 50s.... the original switch has screwed on terminals while the salvaged switch had soldered terminal..... trying to keep it original as possible...... and screwed in terminals are so much easier to service later.

Mike...... can you post the 19 set site.... thanks.


Bob C
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  #2  
Old 05-12-13, 01:58
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Mike K Mike K is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Carriere View Post
Mike...... can you post the 19 set site.... thanks.


Bob C
sure

http://www.qsl.net/ve3bdb/
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  #3  
Old 05-12-13, 03:41
Bob Carriere Bob Carriere is offline
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Default Good news.......

EUREKA........Got the CPP 2 working.

So simple yet......

I hunted down a separate used double pole single throw switch from a surplus NRC panel. Tested fine..... ready to be used as a substitute.

Removed the original switch from the CPP 2 and tested again.....seemed to work on one pole....... so being fearless and being that this is pre solid state.... the switch is actually assembled with two screws sealed with some black dry brittle paint. Decided to take the switch apart to see what was defective or broken.... chipped the paint and carefully took it apart laying out the small pieces.... contacts were a bit black and oily...... washed everything in an electrical contact solvent.... bent the contact arm for a bit more pressure and re-assembled...... now works perfectly.

Output dial works and puts out 13.4 to 19 volts in the low range and 26 to
39 volts in the upper range.

Now I have two reliable power sources.

Both CPP have minor differences which I now understand to be new large plastic covered capacitors instead of the fade yellow cardboard ones and evidence of modern spade type connectors otherwise identical.

One has a front door on the left hand side to access the 12 to 24 volts knife switch ...the older one requires that you remove the full cover to make the voltage changes.

Thanks Mike for the link to Chris who lives across town from me...... I will always be amazed by information coming from across the globe for something in my own back yard. I have saved the site and will no doubt be doing a lot of reading.

With the help of Stuart Fedak we will be organizing a little radio shack meeting in my sunroom for the Ottawa boys and hope to convince Chris to attend.

Now I have "juice" to play with ....... let's see how far I can progress before blowing a fuse!!!!!

Thanks everyone.

Bob C
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  #4  
Old 05-12-13, 07:59
Bruce MacMillan Bruce MacMillan is offline
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Default

The CPP2 is a brute force power supply. That's what makes it good for the 19 set & others that use a dynamotor. There is no electronic regulation so the power supply doesn't shut down with the high inrush current.

The output voltage will drop with load.

I have never seen any docs or a manual for the unit. Wonder if any exist?
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  #5  
Old 05-12-13, 16:34
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Jon Skagfeld Jon Skagfeld is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bruce MacMillan View Post
The CPP2 is a brute force power supply. That's what makes it good for the 19 set & others that use a dynamotor. There is no electronic regulation so the power supply doesn't shut down with the high inrush current.

The output voltage will drop with load.

I have never seen any docs or a manual for the unit. Wonder if any exist?
I've been collecting 19 sets and parts for years and never have I seen an operator/user manual for the CPP-2.

BTW, the CPP-2 being a power supply, we always referred to it as a rectifier.

I wonder if the inference was that, as a rectifier, it acted as a step down transformer?
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  #6  
Old 05-12-13, 17:17
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chris vickery chris vickery is offline
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Jon, typically a rectifier changes AC current to DC current, and in this case with the CPP-2 it also steps it down from 120VAC to the required 12VDC or 24VDC as needed.
An inverter, on the other hand does just the opposite; DC voltage is changed to AC voltage. Think of using your car battery at 12VDC coupled up to say a 1000w 120VAC inverter to power things like laptops, dvd players etc in your vehicle.
Of course rectifiers or inverters are used in all kinds of applications for relatively low voltage, low amperage uses up to very high, very large industrial uses.
I have most recently worked on rectifiers (135MVA) IIRC in aluminum smelting. These take the supplied line voltage incoming (230,000VAC) and turn it into useable DC current for the potlines.
I believe the potlines main buss runs at 400,000+ Amperes.
Can you say giant bug zapper???
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  #7  
Old 05-12-13, 18:14
Bob Carriere Bob Carriere is offline
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Default Thanks Jon and Bruce.

The design is very basics and massive ....... also very heavy...those side cut outs for handles do not provide a proper grip for lifting...... I am thinking of mounting one on a scaled down furniture dolly so I can wheel it under the work bench without scratching the hard wood floor. The second one will fit nicely on a shelf off the floor underneath the work station.

I got surplus static free electronic work bench some years ago when they shutdown a plant in Kanata....very heavy 1 inch plywood top covered with a 5/16 scuff proof plastic overlay which is grounded to the steel legs......steel panel legs and store shelf underneath. On top of the work bench is a secondary 16 inches high 12 inch back shelf with a full lenght power bar.

Nice tool to play with.

Bob C
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  #8  
Old 05-12-13, 16:30
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Jon Skagfeld Jon Skagfeld is offline
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Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bob Carriere View Post
EUREKA........Got the CPP 2 working.

So simple yet......

I hunted down a separate used double pole single throw switch from a surplus NRC panel. Tested fine..... ready to be used as a substitute.

Removed the original switch from the CPP 2 and tested again.....seemed to work on one pole....... so being fearless and being that this is pre solid state.... the switch is actually assembled with two screws sealed with some black dry brittle paint. Decided to take the switch apart to see what was defective or broken.... chipped the paint and carefully took it apart laying out the small pieces.... contacts were a bit black and oily...... washed everything in an electrical contact solvent.... bent the contact arm for a bit more pressure and re-assembled...... now works perfectly.

Output dial works and puts out 13.4 to 19 volts in the low range and 26 to
39 volts in the upper range.

Now I have two reliable power sources.

Both CPP have minor differences which I now understand to be new large plastic covered capacitors instead of the fade yellow cardboard ones and evidence of modern spade type connectors otherwise identical.

One has a front door on the left hand side to access the 12 to 24 volts knife switch ...the older one requires that you remove the full cover to make the voltage changes.

Thanks Mike for the link to Chris who lives across town from me...... I will always be amazed by information coming from across the globe for something in my own back yard. I have saved the site and will no doubt be doing a lot of reading.

With the help of Stuart Fedak we will be organizing a little radio shack meeting in my sunroom for the Ottawa boys and hope to convince Chris to attend.

Now I have "juice" to play with ....... let's see how far I can progress before blowing a fuse!!!!!

Thanks everyone.

Bob C
Yeah, "juice" to play with...now watch your hydro meter spin into oblivion!
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