C60 cwt Signals CZMk IV

[Phil Waterman]

Hi Gordon

Tomorrow I'll pick up a replacement digital camera and start taking photos. (My new camera died and they are replacing it.)

Have also found the manual pages you need and will post them as well.

Cheers Phil

[Gordon Yeo]

It has been a very hasty harvest season here, too much rain and too cold. It appears some crops may be abandoned to the winter snow if the weather doesn't turn drier. That's why not much to show on the truck, work got in the way, again.

I have just about every thing cleaned up and repainted ready to instal on the frame. I thought I should get the frame in the shop and the axles mounted before we start into the real snowy weather. Using the loader and slinging the axles with chains sure makes positioning the axle and u-bolts an easy job.

Gord

[Jon Skagfeld]

Gord: When the restoration is all done, and without insulting you, do you need a qualified driver for this vehicle whilst you drive one of your other treasures at various shows?

...or maybe even a co-driver?

[Gordon Yeo]

Jon

As I recall you have come along for the ride in the 15 cwt , and that our trucks were very close in production numbers. You may have to come down to my part of the world to drive the C60 and very welcome to join in the fun.

There might be another Parade/ Celebration in Goderich in 2015, similar to the 2005 event. If it happens, come to that again and the C60 is yours for the day.



Gord

[Gordon Yeo]

Started pulling brake drums and my luck has run out. The rear drums are clean and in excellent condition. The rear brake shoes measure 5/16 " of thickness.

The front brake drums were not quite as happy an experience. I've heard people talk about the larger three ton truck ball joints and never appreciated how different they were to the 15 cwt front ends. And I still don't appreciate the difference. I had to take the pitman arms off the ball joints to get a wrench on the lower brake shoe adjusters. That doesn't seem like a good design.

The front brake shoes were drenched in oil/grease. The front oil seals have left a groove in the metal surface they mate to and that will need to be remedied, some how. The front drums were reluctant to come off and need some persuasion.

Here are a few pictures.

[Bob Carriere]

....they are not rusted.

It is npot unusual to have to release the brake adjustments to remove the drums..... however it must be a headache if you can't reach the adjusters.

Rusted is the worst...... guys at the barn will vouch for that. We had to use the torches to expend the drums and free the rust weld between the linings and the drum.... they were bone dry and filled with bees nest and cob webs.

For the cost and sake of your safety consider new lining even if they look thick and new..... you will never soak all the oil out of the linings. If you are lucky the seal is the same easy to find part...... do not go by part number but by dimensions. If you have a hard time finding them in Goderich I will look them up for you.

Which brings me to the fact that oil should not be dripping from the axle unless it was way over filled or you may have worn out inner seals. Drain that axle before you do anything else.... just remember to refill next Spring when you get ready to drive it...... you will have to remove the brake plate to see if that particular axle does have the inner seals.

If you go with new front linings bring your drum in to have them arced so they will mate perfectly with the new surfaced drum...... if they ask you what is the minimum the drums can be turned...tell them not to worry and remove just enough to get a clean surface.... those drums are way thicker than modern stuff.

How were the seals on the real axle.....?

I hope you have strong arms when that drum releases...... we have copied Phil W. and suspend our brake drums with a wide cargo strap attached to the overhead crane....makes re-installing a lot easier and reduces chances of damaging the new seals.... I know the rear ones are really heavy.

Keep us informed of your tribulations....

Bob C

[Phil Waterman]

Gordon here is a link to how I handle the break drums using hoist and engine leveling hoist bar.



Using this approach I can handle removing and installing not only the brake drums but the entire front knuckle assembly as a unit with the drum. Advantage is you can position the unit level and slide it in with out damaging the seals. The chain hanging down form the out side end is for more counter weight if needed.

Now to the brake shoes, as Bob suggested if they are greasy have them relined at a heavy truck or equipment brake shop. Ask them for a soft lining as it is easier to reline the shoes again then find new drums. Besides a softer lining will be more like the original asbestos ones.

Cheers Phil