Jacking up a carrier

[Yeo.NT]

We use something similar to these to lift M113s, but might but a bit expensive for occasional use.

http://matjack.thomasnet.com/categor...gs?plpver=1001

[RichardT10829]

as above... never place any part of your body between the contact surfaces of the track and the floor.... heavy duty axle stands are a must. make sure its on level ground and if need be use a base plate for any bottle type jacks.

common sense stuff i know, but its best said as folk tend to cut corners and get dead

[Hans Mulder]

Have her in gear and chock the track...

However, when I initially got my carrier and had to get underneath, I had a setup of railway ties to drive her up on in order to fit underneath and work effectively - I think this is safer than jack and stands (if you can work on it when it is up this way).

Last year when I was rebuilding my shop I was fortunate enough to find a 12,000lb capacity, drive-on FKI Bradbury hoist, with wheels free option, for $1200 (our fleet mechanic was downsizing so I snapped it up)! Now I can work on and under in style!

[Phil Waterman]

Hi All

Good topic for discussion, anything this big and heavy can do a lot of damage if it drops.

My personal favorite is 8x8x30 cribbing blocks. I just like the idea of solid objects that are thicker than me that can't slip or tip over.

But I really like Hans solution, you lucked out there.

Cheers Phil

[horsa]

Railroad Ties / Sleepers are what I use but they are just like the cribbing blocks when cut to shorter lengths to keep things manageable. One tie can be cut into four shorter blocks and they are pretty solid for holding the weight once you jack the vehicle up.

I've always used a 3-ton floor jack to get one end of the vehicle up and then move the blocks into place so the jack isn't under load later when working underneath the carrier. Used to place 5-ton jack stands beneath the carrier before the blocks but I had one literally fold up and collapse. Likely from my having been in the vehicle earlier and doing work which possibly caused the load to shift. It didn't fail while I was in or under the vehicle fortunately.

Blocks are certainly safer, even though they are harder to manage than stands. Getting crushed will ruin the rest of your day. Assuming there is someone handy that can jack the vehicle off whatever part of your body is pinned.

[servicepub (RIP)]

How's this for an idea?

[Richard Farrant]

Having worked on flat bottomed armoured vehicles in government workshops, I can say that we would not use stands, timber blocks being order of the day. If the vehicle was nudged, it would just move on the blocks, but on stands, being metal to metal, it would likely slide off. Another point is with a thin armour floor it puts a point loading at the point of the stand.

[Phil Waterman]

Originally Posted by servicepub;186A293

How's this for an idea?

Hi All

Great photo Clive, I've got one those jacks it was in my HUP when I bought the HUP many years ago. Thing must weigh close to 200 LBS. As to the rest of what they were up to must have been a story.
Cheers Phil

[universalgrl]

Some important things to consider when undergoing jacking operations take your time and do it right!
1. Always jack on a level surface preferably concrete.
2. Check your equipment for faults.
i. jack stands for cracks or missing floor pads
ii. hydraulic jacks for proper fluid level and leaking seals
iii. make sure the jack has sufficient capacity to handle the load.
3. If you are jacking a carrier that does not have a center divider make sure that the hull sits level and do a cross corner alignment check before any serious riveting work is undertaken. A small misalignment error at the bottom can equal a large error at the top.
If you think I am preaching, I was a general safety officer and I have seen jacks collapse after blowing their seals, jack stands crack and collapse and cars fall off hydraulic hoists.

[Paul Dutton]

Lift her slowly on a suitable jack and use blocks mate.
Old railway sleepers (check not rotten....seen that a few time!!) chainsaw to length/size required!
1 rail sleeper is about £15.00 here and you can get 3 large blocks from one of them, cheaper than good heavy duty stand!
If up in air for prolonged period you can alsi `TIE` them together with steel straps with holes in to put screws thru!
And dont stick ur daft head under til its secure!