42 Pilot Model HUP Project

[Phil Waterman]

Hi Richard

Remember the Witches Brew of ATF and acetone it worked on my big flat head engine. Just keep pouring it in to the cylinders you think are stuck or all of them for good measure.

Keep up the good work.

Cheers Phil

[RHClarke]

While I waited for the witches brew to do its thing, I cleaned off the block to reveal the casting number and the stamped serial number. On line resources indicate that it is a 1940-45 Canadian made block.

Photos:
1 - Casting number
2 - Stamping
3 - Engine out
4 - A little cleaner added...

[RHClarke]

I am happy to report that the mix of acetone and ATF worked its magic today. The engine for the Pilot Model HUP spun over nicely. To celebrate, Bob and Grant mounted the engine on a stand so that we can all admire the thing.

Next steps - clean up the parts with gasoline and find a local engine shop that can clean and magnaflux.

Photos:
1 - Engine "before" Witch's Brew
2 - Engine "after" - note number 2 cylinder
3 - Not much left to tear down...

[RHClarke]

I finally got this video uploaded to YouTube. It features the Pilot Model's frame.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TDOgQ2QC9HA

[RHClarke]

The focus this summer was not on barn activities; much to my chagrin. But I did get a chance lately to do some work on the Pilot Model. The front mud guards came off with some considerable effort with the air ratchet. The nuts came off only after a lot of penetrating fluid was used or the bolt twisted off completely. It was an even split between recovered nuts and broken bolts.

I have come to realize the power of rust. It can separate a 1/4 inch steel plate from a substantial piece of angle iron to which it was welded. The gap was widened enough to remove all of the rust and to clean the metal where it joined.

The photos show the power of rust, but in the end, once the rust was removed, the plate was coaxed back into postion with the help of the press and a little diligent hammering. A few zaps of weld later and it looked like new (well, better than before).

Photos:
1 - 73 years of rust.
2 - Opening the gap.
3 - Closed gap.

[RHClarke]

After a long search, I found the close up video of the Pilot Model. It gives one a good idea of the scope of work to complete this restoration project.

YouTube: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uy_2N_wiNoM

[RHClarke]

The amount of rust damage on a truck only become apparent when you tear it down. The running boards are a case in point - while on the truck they appeared to be strong and in good shape. Once I pulled them off it was clear that time and the elements had their way with them.

The top of the "diamond and dot" pattern running board plate had some pitting and wear in areas that would be expected for a truck that had a long and distinguished career as a school bus. The bottoms of the board were quite rusty, but they were solid. The "L" brackets that hold the runing boards to the frame had extensive rust damage along the horizontal lengths. The retaining straps were in poor shape with all of the treaded ends rusted solid. One band had separated near the treaded end.

But the most damage was to the "rim" that ran under the entire running board. The rim is a 1 inch by 1 inch length of angle iron that was spot welded to the underside. I removed the most rusted parts and kept the rounded edges in place until I replicate the radius of the bends. The intent is to replace the metal rims using the same amount of cuts at the inside radius as the orginals.

Photos:
1 - Running board rim removal
2 - Bolt hole configuration on the end of the board
3 - Post surgery
4 - Some of the damage - the rim was thin, sharp and very weak