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My first set back, the starter switch won't work. I'll have to save up for a new one.
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Robert Pearce. |
#2
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Try Harvey bay, he keeps them and they are reasonable, appear on ebay regularly. if not I might have a spare.
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macca C15 C15A |
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Thanks for the reply Bob, I won't do anything till I've payed this months bills.
I had no luck with bearings from Greg as most of the ones thrown out are roller bearings. I will ask the motor bike mechanics in Wagga rear wheel bearings should be about the right size.
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Robert Pearce. |
#4
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http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/NORS-DELC...item4d0d9d19b2
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Blitz books. |
#5
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Robert Pearce. |
#6
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Phil you were right. The switch on ebay was getting out of my present price range so I went and had a good look at the switch. There was no sign of insulation on the sides of the switch so I cut some and refitted the switch. The jumper lead test worked, I refitted the starter and it fired the engine straight up. Thank you Phil, Bob and Ryan.
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Robert Pearce. |
#7
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Glad to hear that solved the problem, I bought a new one through the local auto parts place a few years ago, when I open the box in the store to see if it looked right it didn't have the side plate insulators. Lesson was to take a careful look at all boxes to see if they look like they have been opened. Parts place ordered another and it came through with the insulators. One of the benefits of dealing with one primary parts place is that when something is not correct I've got an better than even chance of having it made right. Cheers Phil
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Phil Waterman `41 C60L Pattern 12 `42 C60S Radio Pattern 13 `45 HUP http://canadianmilitarypattern.com/ New e-mail Philip@canadianmilitarypattern.com |
#8
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Hi Phil
Knowing that the number one problem with these switches to be arcing erosion of the copper contact ......Do you think it is possible to rebuild the contact area using "silver" solder...... and would it last...? How about brazing with Oxy/Acet rebuilding with brass...? On farm tractors using similar delco unit it is common to take the switch apart and rotate the head of the contact bolt 180 degrees to get more years of service...... not sure if the big contact bolt on a chev switch can be rotated .... I cringe when I see the asking price of such common items on EBay when most farm tractor supply store can sell them retail for half the price. Bob C
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Bob Carriere....B.T.B C15a Cab 11 Hammond, Ontario Canada |
#9
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Finally the jack is back together and has a full travel. Next it needs cleaning and painting, hopefully this weekend.
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Robert Pearce. |
#10
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These switches are about as simple as can be, so my question is before you replace the switch are you sure that starter works. Have you tried touching jumper cable to the contact on the starter to see if it kicks the starter over? Looking at the under side of the switch how do the contacts look? Are they burned or corroded? When you are looking at the switch besure the little triangle shaped pieces of insulation are still their they keep the switch block from shorting to the switch sides. I've had a problem getting these switches work because the lever is no longer pushing the button in far enough, cause was wear on the lever and pivot shaft. As these switches were used on so many vehicles, I'd check the bigger auto parts sources before going to the antique sources. My preference though is to use and old switch as the modern knock offs the bronze has so mutch impurities in them that they don't last as long as a cleaned up 1940s switch. Cheers Phil
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Phil Waterman `41 C60L Pattern 12 `42 C60S Radio Pattern 13 `45 HUP http://canadianmilitarypattern.com/ New e-mail Philip@canadianmilitarypattern.com |
#11
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Hi Phil the first test I did was to use jumper leads on the starter. The problem is the contact has burnt back and is not making a solid contact anymore.
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Robert Pearce. |
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