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hi Manfred
I've used normal .8mm mig wire to weld mine with no problems from cracking during cooling, except when welding wading plates on the side when maybe 3 out of 20 welds cracked after cooling but i'm no welding expert I can only tell you of my experience. good luck with the restoration, it will be nice for you to get the hull after blasting ![]() rick
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_______________________ 1941 mk1 mortar Carrier 1941 Mk1* Carrier 1942 Mk1* Carrier 1943 T16 Carrier 1945 Mk3 Dingo 1941 Mk3 Covenanter 1941 Mk4 Churchill AVRE (now sold) 1944 Mk6 Cromwell (now sold) 1952 Mk3 Centurion 1952 ARV Centurion 1952 ARV Centurion 1953 Mk3 Centurion (breaking) Last edited by eddy8men; 10-06-13 at 19:35. |
#2
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Normal mig wire will do as Rick says.. Clean out the holes then hit them from both sides, if you wanted to be picky you could counter sink the holes from both sides then fill with weld then dress back nice and flush... Way stronger but for what it is it may be a bit OTT :-)
There was a great deal of work and callaboration on a global scale to produce the front armour DXF's however I have not got a copy myself otherwise it would have been shared by now. I am however able to supply the correct shape headed snaps to re rivet carriers and can do a nice deal on the three shaped snaps required if folk need them. Manfred I have the side armour DXF's which have the correct positions of all the rivet holes which you will need. Don't be tempted to remove the remains of the armour that you have left... Personally speaking I would just graft in the missing front sections to them, you may need stainless wire in the mig for the job though.
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is mos redintegro __5th Div___46th Div__ 1942 Ford Universal Carrier No.3 MkI* Lower Hull No. 10131 War Department CT54508 (SOLD) 1944 Ford Universal Carrier MkII* (under restoration). 1944 Morris C8 radio body (under restoration). Last edited by RichardT10829; 10-06-13 at 21:41. |
#3
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Like David said use 7018 and if you are filling hole use copper backing plates and you will have no problems
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