M151A2 in its new home

[Scott Bentley]

To pile on to Eric's comments. This is my take on 151 parts:
I departed ways with a lot of money restoring mine, and hindsight is 20/20. The biggest thing I learned was to plan ahead and order in quantity/variety from Front Line MV (FLMV), and then have it shipped to Ogdensburg UPS Store. Drive down and collect.

There are others such as TNJ Murray and Army Jeep Parts who will ship to Canada, but TNJ is painfully slow and expensive, and AJP is quicker, but very expensive. Not to mention, the associated shipping and broker fees etc. As a side note, AJP recently bought all of Saturn's 151 parts (and marked them up significantly). Saturn was my original usual 151 parts shop, but FLMV is a good outfit.

There are also few pockets of parts in Canada. I know Brian Asbury has a bunch of parts and I believe Ralph down in Niagara Falls also has some as well. Unfortunately, neither have a webpage to order parts. So its a phone call/email to find out if they have what you're looking for.

As for Batteries and Body Parts:
I think I'm the last guy in Canada to pull off getting a Battery Box Floor from Jeep Panels Plus. My original was similar to yours. Between the rust, an acetylene torch, and then the booty-fab re-weld job, it was a complete mess. I've seen guys just pull the whole thing out and put a flat panel in it. Works, but you need to look hard at the batteries (height).

I ended up going with Honda Civic batteries (size 22R I think). Maint free, twice the cranking amps, and cheap. I think they were $55 a piece from Walmart in the USA. Probably a bit more here. I'm betting half the reason why those battery floors were all rotted out were from the original maintenence type batteries. I also did a Master Switch (LSVW style). Only difference was I chose to put it on the front of the Battery Box Bulkhead/Seat Riser between the Passengers heals.

[chris vickery]

Hi Terry

I would argue the seat belt issue, if they were never installed they don't need to be. I am not sure though about 1974 vehicles, if the seatbelt law was already passed then. At any rate, removal of the rear seat is a quick option, also if you check ePay there are numerous mil-spec lap belts to be had very inexpensively. IIRC, I think the last ones I saw were $15.95/pr.

[maple_leaf_eh]

I got a set from Peter Simundsen for the rotted and fatigued ones on the M38A1. They are black and have a flat heavy strap tab to bolt in. The only question will be finding somewhere reasonably strong and unrotten!

Ottawa's MV email list buzzed last week with a Stanley Cup victory parade for the Senators. What better way to parade than with all four running Ottawa M151A2s? Hence the motivation to attach seat belts for the backseat hockey player passengers!

[rob love]

Seatbelts were mandatory in all vehicles after 1970/71. The seatbelts on the Cdn M151A2 rollcage are from a Dodge van of the 1978 era, and the rear belts are the simple non-rewind type. They are available from many places....vintage auto stores, and I think even boats have the same seat belts.

Punch in a google search for universal seat belts, or check on ebay. The seatbelts normally have to be backed by a fairly substatial washer...about 3 or 4" round if I recall.

[Scott Bentley]

We're multiplying....

After a morning of making some adjustments, we've got Steve's back on the road:

[maple_leaf_eh]

And you didn't call me?

(Actually I would have had to beg off a road move on Monday. My son asked to go to the range and shoot a little. He had better luck on paper with the 10/22 than the Zombie rifle. And, we had some father son puberty talks. A bunch of rusty old trucks just wouldn't measure up to these moments of family investment.)

[Scott Bentley]

Originally Posted by maple_leaf_eh

And you didn't call me?

(Actually I would have had to beg off a road move on Monday. My son asked to go to the range and shoot a little. He had better luck on paper with the 10/22 than the Zombie rifle. And, we had some father son puberty talks. A bunch of rusty old trucks just wouldn't measure up to these moments of family investment.)

This was a case of getting Steve's from storage to his house for some further maintenance. Still a little bit yet before a full scale convoy is in order.

Did you get a clean bill of health on yours?

[Samuel Mcgregor]

Nice 74 pat Terry enjoy .

[Samuel Mcgregor]

Heads up anyone needing a replacement battery floor get your orders in to Willy's Acres before its to late for this shipment.

[maple_leaf_eh]

I propped up the M151A2 and wriggled underneath.

Some of the grease nipples were easy to grease, but others were not. Either the grease gun tip was too big to fit between the nipple and the web of the universal joint, or the grease just squirted out the side.

Questions - are there different types of automotive grease gun tip? And, over time do grease nipples fail? And, is there an easy way to access the transfer case and transmission fluid check holes?

[Scott Bentley]

Originally Posted by maple_leaf_eh

I propped up the M151A2 and wriggled underneath.

Some of the grease nipples were easy to grease, but others were not. Either the grease gun tip was too big to fit between the nipple and the web of the universal joint, or the grease just squirted out the side.

Questions - are there different types of automotive grease gun tip? And, over time do grease nipples fail? And, is there an easy way to access the transfer case and transmission fluid check holes?

Terry, you'll need a Needle Adaptor for your grease gun in order to get the Driveshaft grease fittings. Canadian Tire has them. They just plug onto the end of your existing grease gun. Just press the tip of it on the little ball bearing in the end of the grease fitting and take your time.

Trans and Transfer both share the same Fill/Check plug. No real easy way to get to it except for laying underneath or popping off the Tunnel Cover. It should be the only Hex Head Plug on the side of the case semi-recessed. The plug that requires an Allen Key is NOT the check/fill plug