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#1
30-04-13, 06:30
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Quote:
__________________
Robert Pearce. 
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#2
30-04-13, 11:10
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I saw an old John Deere 2 cylinder tractor that had a wrist pin slip and groove the cylinder. The old farmer filled the groove with JB Weld then honed the cylinder. It had been used for several years when I saw it apart and you could tell where the JB was but it was still holding up.
__________________
1940 Cab 11 C8 Wireless with 1A2 box & 11 set 1940 Cab 11 C8 cab and chassis 1940 Cab 11 C15 with 2A1 & Motley mount & Lewis gun 1940 Cab 11 F15A w/ Chev rear ends 1941 Cab 12 F15A 1942-44 Cab 13 F15A x 5 1942 cab 13 F15A with 2B1 box 1943 cab 13 F15A with 2H1 box 1943 Cab 13 C8A HUP 1944 Cab 13 C15A with 2C1 box 1943 Cletrac M2 High Speed Tractor MkII Bren gun carrier chassis x 2
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#3
30-04-13, 13:51
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I am currently rebuilding a Wilson pre-selective gearbox for a 1934 Riley and the car had a rod through the side of the block. The owner of the car had it laser welded were the company specialised in this repair work first cut a piece out of an irreparable block and laser welded that in the "good" block. First time I have heard of this technique. Not cheap but as these blocks are hard to find he had no other option.
Cheers,
__________________
Marc van Aalderen Daimler Dingo Mk1B 1941 Daimler Armoured Car Mk1 1943 Daimler Ferret Mk1/1 1959 Ford Universal Carrier No2 MkII* 1944 Ford GPW British Airborne 1944 Lightweight 10 Cwt Trailer SS Cars Ltd 1944 Anti-Tank Gun 6 Pdr 7 Cwt MkII 1942 Austin Tilly 1943 Austin K6A Breakdown 1944 Daf Trailer AT16-24-1NL 1977 Daf 2100Turbo 1982
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#4
26-08-13, 12:01
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Thanks for all of the above input once again. After demystifying the problem to be tackled the Locknstitch bits were purchased from a very helpful agent in Mackay (QLD-Aust.) and the work began. Few images attached for those interested. You were correct Gordon. After removing more paint the problem grew to approx 4inchs. Some magnaflux chemical was purchased and after a few trys (alias learning curve) I finally got a result. Turns out it helped to remove the normally rough skin surface in the vicinity of the crack. First pic is the result. This was followed with a centre punch to make it more pronounced.
The other images show a few of the steps with the last being the end result. Pin edges can be peined or done with a 2mm pin punch which was the final choice. Engine now back in as of yesterday and all being well the leak will be a thing of the past. Rod
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#6
26-08-13, 12:11
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Looks like you got it
I'm glad you chased the ends of it before you started the repair.
That's a pretty typical crack through the thin casting section between two webs. Here in the UK it would have been caused by freezing - not sure if that is likely where you are. Have a really good look at the other thin sections before you put all the other bits back on.
__________________
Gordon, in Scotland
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#7
26-08-13, 21:58
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Nice work Rod!
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