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  #1  
Old 29-04-13, 21:55
Ben Ben is offline
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It didn't bend. I was told that machining it would tend to make it bend due to the way it relieves the steels stresses but grinding was a better way of controlling it. The bloke that did it guaranteed it'd be as flat after he did the work as it was before, he was right!

Ben
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  #2  
Old 26-06-13, 17:17
Ben Ben is offline
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Default Engine cover

I've been a little lazy with updates so here goes.

The engine cover on a pre universal carrier is a little different. The one on the Scout angles down from the air box until it reaches the rear section, it then levels out to horizontal. The Scout still has its original frame and a couple of the cover panels. Years ago a small section was cut out with a torch to allow a little movement for the engine to come out easier leaving the air boxes in place. After i'd straightened a couple of parts i jigged it all together and welded in the missing sections, they're only a couple of inches long maximum. I'll tidy the welds up when i take the frame out.

The photos show the lower rear section and the early type curved air boxes. The fittings on the upper panel are one of the pogo clips, two latches for the side armour and the Butt rest for the Bren if its in the LH side engine cover pintle.
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File Type: jpg engine cover.jpg (50.7 KB, 36 views)
File Type: jpg engine cover 2.jpg (47.4 KB, 35 views)
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  #3  
Old 26-06-13, 17:30
Ben Ben is offline
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Default Fuel can bin

The back of the Scout has a battery box and fuel can holder the same as a universal. It was in generally very good condition including the springs for the cans except the base which was rotten due to water sitting in it, there were a couple of small holes in the sides too.

I wanted to keep as much original material as possible but the base was beyond saving so I made a new one and riveted it in. The small holes on the side needed someone with more metal work skills than me! A friend is a very good welder/fabricator and he said he could cut out the minimum material and weld in a new section. I was very pleased when he gave the box back, the repair is barely visible even in bare metal, once its painted i'm sure it wont be seen at all. He commented that it would have been quicker and easier to make the whole box new! I think the small dents and detail including part numbers etc are worth keeping wherever possible.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg fuel bin.jpg (45.7 KB, 29 views)
File Type: jpg fuel bin2.jpg (38.5 KB, 27 views)
File Type: jpg fuel bin3.jpg (43.3 KB, 29 views)
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  #4  
Old 26-06-13, 17:38
Ben Ben is offline
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I've been sandblasting and painting some of the smaller components in between the bigger jobs.

The steering/braking units have been cleaned, painted, greased, new seals and built up this week. They were in very good condition when removed so didn't need too much work. One is a little too stiff for my liking so i'll strip it down again to see if it can be loosened before it gets fitted. Theres a bits of a knock to one of the protection plates but i quite liked it being there, couldn't see the point in straightening it out. Its all part of the story.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg bell cranks.jpg (108.7 KB, 37 views)
File Type: jpg bell crank 2.jpg (28.1 KB, 38 views)
File Type: jpg bell crank 3.jpg (25.6 KB, 36 views)
File Type: jpg bel crank 4.jpg (77.8 KB, 34 views)
File Type: jpg scout 5.jpg (44.5 KB, 36 views)
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  #5  
Old 31-07-13, 19:23
Ben Ben is offline
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Default Rivets.....

After War and Peace i decided i really needed to crack on and get a carrier there next year. I had spoken to Israel Newton and son about replacing the rivets on the Scout previously so after confirming a date I loaded the hull onto a trailer then made the trip up the M1 to get the work done.

They specialise in building boilers and restoring steam engines. They have some enormous equipment including a 250 ton press for forming the ends of boilers from hot steel plate 1" thick. I took a couple of photos of yard as it might interest some. I would recommend anyone needing riveting or other heavy steel work to give them a call.

Photos of the yard and unloading the hull
Attached Images
File Type: jpg IMG_8300.jpg (77.5 KB, 39 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_8299.jpg (62.9 KB, 40 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_8247.jpg (45.3 KB, 40 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_8251.jpg (57.2 KB, 39 views)
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  #6  
Old 31-07-13, 19:31
Ben Ben is offline
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They did a very good job of the armour rivets including fitting the hinges in place. They were about the smallest rivets they use from what i saw. There are five smaller rivets on the back that hold the latch and hook in place for the rear folding armour, they weren't off the shape sizes so they made the special snaps and rivets needed while i waited. It took a couple of hours but they weren't letting it leave unless it was done right. It was refreshing to see how they worked and their attention to detail. The repaired hull looks great and is off to paint in a week.

I hope to get it back from paint and fit the rear axle by the end of August, all being well.

Photos of the guys putting the rivets in and the forge for getting them hot.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg IMG_8257.jpg (35.6 KB, 47 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_8259.jpg (40.9 KB, 48 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_8271.jpg (42.2 KB, 48 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_8291.jpg (35.9 KB, 48 views)
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  #7  
Old 31-07-13, 19:46
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gordon gordon is offline
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Default Proper job

Paint coding for the tool types too. I can work out the snap and flush tools, but what's a Liverpool, then?

My T-36 Tractor is together with 3/16" rivets, which are enough of a pain to get right
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  #8  
Old 31-07-13, 19:55
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Very interesting photo set Ben, it's always gratifying to see traditional engineering being undertaken. Guys who do it day in and day out always make the jobs look too easy!
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