F60L Recent pics

[Ganmain Tony]

Originally Posted by lynx42

Tony, looks like electrical tape to me.

Thanks for coming to Corowa.

regards Rick.

Spot on Rick,

I'm not as good at doing dodgey work as I thought...

[Alex van de Wetering]

Excellent work Tony!

Alex

[Bob Carriere]

First of all our Chev trucks have a inner skin on the doors that hides many sore spots.

Mac does have the exact door handle with the long grooves....also has very close to original inner handles.

I used the Vee shape dovetails from Mac as mine where badly worn off. The repro do look the part even if the blocks are black plastic.

Hinges are always a problem...... the overall cab integrity is questionable at best...... the whole door alignment can be ruined by stertching the back of the cab front or back. Later modification were added on the cab 12 by having a 1/2 inch steel plate bolted under the floor plate corner of the cab... also stop straps added to keep the door from hitting the cargo box.

There are many parade ground pictures of cab 11 in Canada with the driver's door fully open back against the fuel tank/cargo box...... although not visible I would not be surprised to learned they were actually tied back for easy in and out.

Now the lock stricker.... most of the ones I have have been extended by welding or even worst brazing...... mine will need to be resurfaced - rebuilt but I am waiting to see how much is needed. Simialrly I have hinges staht are bent everywhich way...... that will all be the custom adjustment that will be needed to match the oddity of my cab...... it is almost as if each door set is custom made to fit one particular truck.

To date I have not been able to source replacement hinges for the cab 11/12 except for some very similar Model T solid brass for $300 + US bucks.... H**l I did not pay that much for the whole truck.

On the cab alignment......I have sinned and added the cab 12 floor plates reinforcements as they just bolt right up and will add some metal strips reinforcements to the wooden roof structure for greater rigidity ...... and make sure the tube/pipe of the windshield is properly mig welded with internal L brackets for rigidity. Then drive it on a rough road and shake it all loose hihihi.....

...and if the doors do not fit properly I will drive it with the doors partly opne using the big original shed door hook and eyelet devices.... now we finally know what they were for....all tis time I thougfh they were for ventilation...

Bob
........... very nice job by the way....

[Ganmain Tony]

Love to know the part number for those door handles Bob.. when you have time

Cleaning up minor details now. Finally found a bit of 'bling'.

A badge like this will definitley make the beast go better..

Old rifle butt holder AND screws extricated intact!!

Original back of ign switch that sits above the steering wheel.

Assortment of other bits. Interesting to see two types of engine cover clamps.

I thought the single type may have been fitted post war as a make do. But I have now seen 3 Cab 12's with identical arrangements.

I'll take that as reasonably supportive evidence of the original layout.

[Ganmain Tony]

Looked up parts book to find the exact name for the 'metal thing' that the crank rod goes through.

Parts book identifies it as the Radiator Shell Lower Apron Assembly.

How the blazes does it attach to the truck down the bottom? (Three holes, last photo)

Has anyone got any pictures?

[Bob Carriere]

Outside handle from Mac

E36 Standard straight handle, Chrome 68-702350-A was $23.00

Gasket for above Molded rubber with bead around edge
B-7022428-B @$1.00

inside door handle.... fits on the square handle shaft
32-56 panel delivery - chrome A702400C @ $8.50

Once sandblasted they will hold paint very well.

Cheers

Bob

[Bob Carriere]

That apron has to curve back on itself almost 160 degrees..... not sure on the Ford but may bolt on the front hat piece with cage nuts on the edge of the hat piece.... the hat piece is parallel to the bumper the arches are bolted to it.... based on failing memory and Chev on the mind !!!!

Bob

[Keith Webb]

Originally Posted by Ganmain Tony

Looked up parts book to find the exact name for the 'metal thing' that the crank rod goes through.

Parts book identifies it as the Radiator Shell Lower Apron Assembly.

How the blazes does it attach to the truck down the bottom? (Three holes, last photo)

Has anyone got any pictures?

I think Bob is right, looks like it has to be flat in line with the bumper underneath as this pic of cab 12 26581 shows.

[Bob Carriere]

....sure went through a lot of trouble upsetting your truck just for a few pics!!

Or were you doing an oil change and the pan plug was rusted tight????

Bob

[Ganmain Tony]

Originally Posted by Keith Webb

I think Bob is right, looks like it has to be flat in line with the bumper underneath as this pic of cab 12 26581 shows.

Thanks Alex - very lucky to get an original. I'll probably make a few to give to a few fellow Cab 12 owners.

I agree with you Keefy and Bob. It has to head straight back towards that cross member in the picture.

Further investigation last night shows there just aint enough metal on the apron to cover that distance from the front to the cross member that runs under the engine. Which it appears in the Keefy's photo to do so

Nor are there any bolt holes anywhere near the three holes on the apron that line up.

Went through the 40-41 parts book to find if there was another plate or bracket but have had no success.

Will have another crack though ...

[Tony Wheeler]

Originally Posted by Ganmain Tony

Interesting to see two types of engine cover clamps. I thought the single type may have been fitted post war as a make do. But I have now seen 3 Cab 12's with identical arrangements. I'll take that as reasonably supportive evidence of the original layout.

Interesting observation Tony, turns out these are vintage style clips which pre-date the cab 12, as seen on the prototypes. Evidently they were superceded at some stage, presumably for robustness and/or ease of manufacture.