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Hi Jack - I obtain all mine from swap meets and garage sales and they normally go pretty cheaply.
Bob
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Chevrolet Blitz Half-Track Replica - Finished and Running Ford F15 - unrestored Ford F15A X 2 - unrestored Website owner - salesmanbob.com |
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That's what I'm after!!!
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Came across this thread, while hunting for information on removing rust using electrolysis. I see it hasn't been added to in past several years. Perhaps we can reignite interest and discussion again, as I would imagine a number of folks have been using this method of cleanup, or at least have an interest in the subject.
A couple of weeks ago, I was given the lower portion of a 3" mortar, that was originally to be restored by the donator, (Tony V) and the author of this thread, the late Bob Moseley. I believe the electrolysis method was to be one option considered for the removal of rust and debris. I would like to follow through with the restoration, and ideally use this removal process, if possible I had used a very small scale electrolysis setup to test ability to remove crap from a minor (and easily replaced) part I had laying around. The process worked rather well, especially as I had no prior experience and materials were most definately less than state of the art. This time I want to have a setup that can remain intact and together, allowing it's immediate use for future cleaning needs. First, the choice of materials. I've read a lot of anecdotes about the virtues of Washing Soda, and note some folks have had difficulty in obtaining it. No such problem in my town, and quite possibly rest of Australia, because I found it without even looking. While dragging myself through the all too frequent grocery shopping, trying not to lose the will to live, I found Washing Soda in the detergent section (a reasonably good choice) of our local grocery chain store. _20161224_220434.JPG The stuff is readily available from Woolworths stores, and comes in 1kg bags. The irony of the brand name did not escape my notice. Not having surity of quantity per litre, nor size of the cleaning tank I would use, I bought two bags, and still had change from $10. Our property is rural, and although we have grid connect electricity, most days we require only our stand alone solar power system. Having had the house built with energy efficiency in mind, certainly went in our favor with regards to suitability for solar power. The PV array is only 1.5kW, and our four 6V storage batteries are modest in capacity, despite each being impossible to lift without an engine crane. I can already hear folks thinking 'so what's that got to do with removing rust with electrolysis?'. Simple really. I'm very impressed with ability to get the vast majority of our daily electrical needs courtesy of the sun, and wondered if the same result could be achieved for removing rust. Why not, I'd still be using electricity, just electricity that didn't cost anything, and hopefully the setup could be made permanent and remain in place between uses. Ideally, the unused power could be utilised to run the lights in my workshop. Over a year ago, a friend gave me one of those cube shaped liquid carrying tanks that are commonly used (in Australia, anyway) for long distance cartage and storage. From memory, I believe it holds 1000 litres, and would be roughly 4 & 1/2 foot in all dimensions. It came with a light gauge steel cage around it, my friend had installed a ball cock tap (dirty minds!) for emptying. It's been sitting in my yard, just waiting for a job like this. Even the metal cage around the tank will be ideal for securing things to. A fortnight ago, after receiving my mortar parts, I started looking through the auction sites and newspapers for suitable solar equipment. 20161221_154510-resized-1024.jpg This is a 250w panel I picked up on Wednesday. A fellow about 2km away from me is selling these for $100ea. They are used, several years old, and in extremely good condition. Apparently when people upgrade their solar setup, they frequently change the panels as well, and rarely do folks ask to retain the old ones! God bless the throw away society. Curious that while trying to be 'sustainable', they are potentially discarding materials that have barely been broken in, let alone broken down. My panel is roughly 1.7m by .9m in dimension, and YES it did fit in the car pictured, for the trip home........on very quiet country backroad. 20161221_154525-resized-1024.jpg 20161221_154534-resized-1024.jpg My panel has retained the correct connections needed for proper external installation. Some folks cut these off, in their frenzy to get them off the roof. dsc_0008-resized-1024.jpg A suitable solar regulator/charger was purchased a week ago. The required connecting cables between PV panel, regulator/charger, battery, and junction box on my shed, arrived just yesterday. Many months ago I purchased a solar powered extractor fan, that was to be used on our house to remove the excess heat in the roof cavity that greatly increases the temperature inside during summer. The home is well insulated and once heat has built up, its difficult to dissipate easily. While the solar extractor fan would achieve that goal, I was surprised how lightly constructed it was, and had doubts about it's longevity. Having now talked myself out of putting that fan on my roof, it will be used on the lid of my electrolysis tank instead. The fan only operates during the day, but then so will my whole setup, even though I plan to use a fairly standard 12V deep cycle battery to deliver the power. Next stage is to choose a location for siting everything permanently, and making a concrete base for the pole that will hold my PV panel and associated equipment. That bit, coming soon...
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Ford CMP, 115" WB,1942 (Under Restoration...still) Medium sized, half fake, artillery piece project. (The 1/4 Pounder) |
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Terry Warner - 74-????? M151A2 - 70-08876 M38A1 - 53-71233 M100CDN trailer Beware! The Green Disease walks among us! |
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I've had mine operating from a large wheely bin for three years or so now Tony. Still using the original kilo of soda, just topping up the water as it evaporates. I now use a cheap 240/12 volt converter purchased from eBay to power it. I have about six inches of sludge in the bottom from accumulated rust, paint, grease and everything else that has floated off all my rusty steel over that time.
I still use my local Sandblasters for heavier stuff as the end result is much better for paint adherence but for lighter stuff this is the best method and fastest.
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1943 Willys MB Willys Trailer 1941 Fordson WOT 2H 1941 Fordson WOT 2H (Unrestored) 194? Fordson WOT 2D (Unrestored) 1939 Ford 1 ton utility (Undergoing restoration) 1940 Ford 1 ton utility (Unrestored) 1941 Ford 1 ton utility (Unrestored) BSA folding bicycle BSA folding bicycle 1941 Ford/Marmon Herrington 3A gun tractor 1941 Ford/Marmon Herrington 3 gun tractor (Unrestored) 1941 Diamond T 969 (Unrestored) Wiles Junior Cooker x 2 Last edited by jack neville; 26-12-16 at 01:58. |
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Jack, a couple of questions, if I may.
Are you using solar or inverting AC back to DC? If solar, what strength panel do you use? Thanks,
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Ford CMP, 115" WB,1942 (Under Restoration...still) Medium sized, half fake, artillery piece project. (The 1/4 Pounder) |
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Keep us posted, very interested in this solar panel method. Got fair bit of big stuff to do in an IBC (1000 litre Industrial Bulk Container)
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BETTER TO BURN OUT THAN FADE AWAY. |
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