Ford Blitz Restoration/Rebuild

[hrpearce]

Originally Posted by Keith Webb

That is a very late production modification, I've only seen a couple like that here in Australia. I would imagine it would have something to do with anchoring a vehicle either for shipping or winching.

Does yours also have a different to standard gearbox cross member? One of those I saw with that type of spring hangar also had a F15 type cross member rather than the one where the gearbox bolts into it.

The hooks are for winching. Page 31in driver's handbook for chevrolet 1945 describes the scotching methods. My father in law said they worked well until the winching became dificult and if you didn't stop in time you snaped the U bolts on the scotched axle.

[Private_collector]

Yay! Finally got a copy of the Blueprint for Victory book.

$T2eC16VHJHQE9nzEymKVBRGL63uMkg~~60_3.jpg

New tie rod joint boots arrived yesterday too. They are a great fit, and will take the original spring and disks from the old ones.

I took my set of CNC files for a Browning 50 cal MG to the local metal fabrication shop. Awaiting price for cutting all the flat pieces. All other bits I will have to make myself. That will be interesting. No idea what to expect for $$$ of CNC cutting.

[Tony Wheeler]

Originally Posted by hrpearce

if you didn't stop in time you snaped the U bolts on the scotched axle.

Perhaps that's why they introduced the hooked spring hanger. All the force is taken by the chain, there's no force whatsoever on the axle.

[Phil Waterman]

Hi Guys

First I don't think the hook incorporated into the spring shackle was intended for use with the winch or winch scotches it is to lightly built. The U attachments for the scotches are much much heavier 3/4 to 1" diameter and they need to be.

I've attached the scotches drawing from the hand book as well as some pictures of the scotches on my truck. The pictures with the cables were taken when I was getting the correct length. Since then I've had heavy cable with loops made. Strangely because of the placement of the frame hooks the cable chain combo need to be different lengths depending on you are put them under front or rear wheels.

I've used the winch and scotches a lot for pulling very large trees up hill. The winch unit is amazingly power full and deserves respect. When you put the scotches down on the ground and hook them to the frame hooks and move the truck wheels up on them and then start pulling, because of the scotch angles they dig right into the ground until flush.

Now to the wheel flanges the explanation I was that they were primarily to speed ship loading and unloading using a pair of spreader bars equipped with loop ends a crane crew could very quickly have a truck read to lift. The other use of course is using two ropes they can be used like a capstan winch to pull a vehicle out being stuck. But if there was mud involved I'd drag at the regular winch cable first.

Cheers Phil

[Private_collector]

These are the replacement tie rod boots I was talking about.
Tie rod replacement boots 1.jpg Tie rod replacement boots 2.jpg
They are diffferent profile to original, but are a very good fit. The upper hole is quite snug through the tie rod bolt end, but will make for a good tight fit and sits really well. Using the original spring keeps the boot pressed to both surfaces. Just need to remove the short right-angled end piece (about 8mm long) on bottom end of the spring. I had already removed those before I took these photos, sorry. The two metal discs are from the original boot. One goes inside bottom of new boot, below the spring.

The boots courtesy of ebay at cost of $5.95 pair, from this seller in AUS: http://stores.ebay.com.au/suzukisupe...id=p4340.l2563

Part identification No: TE 8

Specs as per following photo.
605379631_o.jpg

[Jacques Reed]

Originally Posted by Private_collector

These are the replacement tie rod boots I was talking about.
goes inside bottom of new boot, below the spring.

The boots courtesy of ebay at cost of $5.95 pair, from this seller in AUS: http://stores.ebay.com.au/suzukisupe...id=p4340.l2563

Part identification No: TE 8

Specs as per following photo.
Attachment 55076

Hi Tony,

Many thanks for that info. If it does the job, looks reasonable, and doesn't cost the earth they will do me! Bit like my modified rubber gearshift boot a few weeks back.

Cheers

[Private_collector]

That reminds me. I also bought a gear shift boot a couple of days ago from UK.
From memory, I think it is off a 70s Cortina or escort.
At least it's from a Ford, and looks to have the potential for me to modify bottom section to fit the opening.

[Tony Wheeler]

Originally Posted by Phil Waterman

I've attached the scotches drawing from the hand book

Yes, this is similar to the FAT diagram I recall, although not quite as detailed. Note low position of front cable attachment point - well below the chassis rail, in the vicinity of the spring hanger. This is necessary to avoid fouling the step brackets, petrol tank and brackets (esp. longer FAT petrol tank), and battery box on RHS. This can be demonstrated by running a string line from under the rear wheel to ANY point on the chassis rail itself where a hook might be mounted. It may just be possible on the LHS of 60S and 60L CMPs, but definitely not possible on the RHS. I'm left to conclude that winching forward with scotches was not possible before the hooked spring hanger mod. Any thoughts....?

As Phil says the hook is not large in cross-section, being merely an extension of the ribbed reinforcement part of the spring hanger, which is barely 3/8" thick. However it's of considerable depth along the line of force, and a thick stiffener pad has been added in the casting. In order to fail it would have to shear through a large area of metal, something along the lines shown in pic 5 perhaps.

There would of course be a component of sideways force, since the scotch plates are outboard of the spring hangers, and this would be greatest with the FAT, due to the greater angle resulting from SWB. All in all though I reckon it would be plenty strong enough for a CMP winch, which are only rated at 7000 lbs. However I guess we'll never know, unless perhaps Ian will be kind enough to test his to destruction for us!

[Ian Johns]

Originally Posted by Tony Wheeler

Yes, this is similar to the FAT diagram I recall, although not quite as detailed. Note low position of front cable attachment point - well below the chassis rail, in the vicinity of the spring hanger. This is necessary to avoid fouling the step brackets, petrol tank and brackets (esp. longer FAT petrol tank), and battery box on RHS. This can be demonstrated by running a string line from under the rear wheel to ANY point on the chassis rail itself where a hook might be mounted. It may just be possible on the LHS of 60S and 60L CMPs, but definitely not possible on the RHS. I'm left to conclude that winching forward with scotches was not possible before the hooked spring hanger mod. Any thoughts....?

As Phil says the hook is not large in cross-section, being merely an extension of the ribbed reinforcement part of the spring hanger, which is barely 3/8" thick. However it's of considerable depth along the line of force, and a thick stiffener pad has been added in the casting. In order to fail it would have to shear through a large area of metal, something along the lines shown in pic 5 perhaps.

There would of course be a component of sideways force, since the scotch plates are outboard of the spring hangers, and this would be greatest with the FAT, due to the greater angle resulting from SWB. All in all though I reckon it would be plenty strong enough for a CMP winch, which are only rated at 7000 lbs. However I guess we'll never know, unless perhaps Ian will be kind enough to test his to destruction for us!

LOL I'll pass on it this time. Maybe later?

[Tony Wheeler]

Originally Posted by Phil Waterman

Now to the wheel flanges the explanation I was that they were primarily to speed ship loading and unloading using a pair of spreader bars equipped with loop ends a crane crew could very quickly have a truck read to lift. The other use of course is using two ropes they can be used like a capstan winch to pull a vehicle out being stuck. But if there was mud involved I'd drag at the regular winch cable first.

Pic 1 shows the ship loading arrangement Phil describes, but prior to the introduction of flanged hubs. It can be seen just how much simpler and faster it would be with flanged hubs. Personally I have no doubt they were designed expressly for this purpose. I wonder if they were part of D-Day planning...? They appeared in Australia around late '44 as standard equipment.

I've often heard the capstan winch suggestion, but I've always dismissed it as pure speculation arising from the shape of the front hub, which resembles a miniature ship's capstan. It strikes me as entirely impractical, if not impossible. Has anyone ever tried it? If not, it might be a worthwhile exercise one day, to prove the point one way or the other. Perhaps we can get MythBusters to tackle it!

[Private_collector]

Pintle finished.jpg
On Saturday morning, the pintle parts and front bumper brackets were painted. Pintle was assembled/installed later that afternoon. Yep, the paint dries that quick! So quick that I could wrap a rag around the middle of the pintle spring, attach a loop of chain, and hold it in place with the engine hoist, while I put the second pintle bracket in place.
Pintle rubber.jpg
I took the liberty of adding a thin strip of rubber to the pintle brackets, to stop the spring from rattling around.
Front springs cleaned.jpg
Finally got all the old spring clamps off front spring sets.Then gave em a really good cleaning, ready for the sandblasters tomorrow.

As predicted (no, really!), the rain has started to move in again, and jungle drums say lots more rain coming tomorrow and Tuesday. Wonderful news.
Got begger-all done on front axle and steering. Due to weight, that's an outside job only. At least until I get the steering knuckles off. So that means an impromptu 'replacement' job done today.
Reverse selector latch old.jpg Reverse select latch new.jpg
And that job was to make a new reverse select latch for the gear shift. I have three gearboxes, and none have a latch that's in one piece. One was, until a friend 'helped' me unload it when I got it home, and allowed the thing to fall onto the latch, squashing and breaking it!

[Private_collector]

Transmission tower cleaned 1.jpg
The final job for the day was to disassemble & clean the trans shift tower. This was frozen when I got it, and I discovered today that it was dues to an accumulation of dirt and other muck in the selector travel tubes. That's all gone now.
Transmission tower cleaned 2.jpg Transmission tower cleaned 3.jpg Transmission tower primed 1.jpg
When I got the selectors out, I found one of the three plunger ball springs was corroded and broke in two upon removal. Checking through Macs catalog for replacements.
Shift plunger parts old.jpg

[Private_collector]

Unbelievable! The heavy rains have resulted in yet MORE flooding in Gympie. Levels expected to get to 18 metres above normal Mary river height. That means most of the businesses evacuated then flood damaged in the January flood, will be receiving the same again now. Here at home, 40km north of town, we have had over 250mm in past 36 hours. That's roughly 10 inches.

I've had the CMP front springs in back of the car since Sunday, but cannot get them to the sandblaster as all roads there are presently under water. Don't think I can get there until at least Thursday or later.

I don't expect to hear from the metal shop regarding having CNC work for a replica 50 cal either. They are amongst the first businesses to get flooded and have had to evacuate their premises for second time in a month. Fairly certain they have more important things on their mind, other than quoting.

On a positive note, my front brake shoes have arrived, and will do just fine. Also won an auction for a genuine WWII Ford 6 point junction block. Been looking for one for a number of weeks and now that has payed off.