Quote:
Originally Posted by Corey Myronuk
the 600w clings to the gear tooth face to cusion the impact of the next tooth on its inital contact where a gear lube is shed and just leaves a film for the sliding of the helical gear surfaces.
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Whenever I rebuild a gearbox or transmission and it it likely that it's going to sit around for some time before he vehicle is back together and on the road, I use Chainsaw Bar Oil as an assembly lube. It too is sticky and will cling to gears, shafts and bearings for long periods, so that any movement until actual filling with gear oil will have all surfaces protected. The coating also prevents rust scale forming on parts within the gearbox that are not sitting in oil. I have seen differentials ruined by the top half of the crown wheel getting a rust coating from sitting for long periods outside exposed to moist air. If you plan to do this, drain the diff oil, part fill with Bar Oil and rotate all moving parts to ensure they get a coating. There is no need to completely remove or flush out the Bar Oil when deciding to put the gearbox/diff back into service. Just a quick, basic drain and refill with fresh gear oil.
18-12-12, 20:13
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